248LikesXray XB4 thread
12-14-2013, 06:48 AM
#3556
Just finished the build, must say very nice build as well quality of kit. The only thing I'm disappointed in was they are still using last years setup sheet?? No mention of new +2 holders, the 2mm shim for the rear hubs is confusing on the sheet, as well as the 2mm shim for the arms is not even mentioned.
12-15-2013, 02:12 AM
#3557
Just sharing a pic of the finished car. Pretty happy with it.
The hawgs/badlands are just for playing.
The hawgs/badlands are just for playing.
12-15-2013, 10:22 AM
#3558
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
some things I typically change when going from a bigger track to a smaller track are:
smaller track:
1. lighter diff oil (5/3) (for higher traction I may change that to thicker oils) - this change makes it feel like I can get into and out of the tight corners quicker with more power applied through and out of the corner
2. move to front ackerman holes on steering rack - for really tight tracks this can add steering to the point that the rear end will swing around for the really tight turns.
3. move rear outer hinge pin to inner hole through hub. car seems more reactive to steering inputs. the rear doesn't feel like it lags behind in a turn.
4. for very tight tracks I will move the front shocks to the inner hole on the arm. this instantly adds droop and keeps the front tires on the ground longer as the chassis rolls through a turn. it can feel very aggressive this way though.
for larger tracks:
1. move rear shock in one hole on top.
2. heavier diff oil - especially if there is more traction
3. outer hinge pin hole on rear hub
4. rearward holes in steering rack
most of the time for larger tracks I'm trying to get the car to not rotate too early in the turn. the bigger and more sweeping the turns, the more I use these changes to dial the car in for the way I like to drive it.
Also, remember to tune for the majority of the track. I see a lot of people tuning for that ONE jump or the fast sweeper on a track only to get it wrong for nearly every other section.
for that track in the video I would personally change my car like I mentioned for small tracks with the exception of the front shock position on the arm. it looks like that track may be a little too loose to deal with that much steering.
Hope this helps
smaller track:
1. lighter diff oil (5/3) (for higher traction I may change that to thicker oils) - this change makes it feel like I can get into and out of the tight corners quicker with more power applied through and out of the corner
2. move to front ackerman holes on steering rack - for really tight tracks this can add steering to the point that the rear end will swing around for the really tight turns.
3. move rear outer hinge pin to inner hole through hub. car seems more reactive to steering inputs. the rear doesn't feel like it lags behind in a turn.
4. for very tight tracks I will move the front shocks to the inner hole on the arm. this instantly adds droop and keeps the front tires on the ground longer as the chassis rolls through a turn. it can feel very aggressive this way though.
for larger tracks:
1. move rear shock in one hole on top.
2. heavier diff oil - especially if there is more traction
3. outer hinge pin hole on rear hub
4. rearward holes in steering rack
most of the time for larger tracks I'm trying to get the car to not rotate too early in the turn. the bigger and more sweeping the turns, the more I use these changes to dial the car in for the way I like to drive it.
Also, remember to tune for the majority of the track. I see a lot of people tuning for that ONE jump or the fast sweeper on a track only to get it wrong for nearly every other section.
for that track in the video I would personally change my car like I mentioned for small tracks with the exception of the front shock position on the arm. it looks like that track may be a little too loose to deal with that much steering.
Hope this helps
12-15-2013, 05:40 PM
#3561
yes there is some slop there
most cars have that but some guys shim it out where possible
1 thing to remember is that it may help the drive a bit to have some slop things that are super tight have a tendency to break under pressure in some cases.
most cars have that but some guys shim it out where possible
1 thing to remember is that it may help the drive a bit to have some slop things that are super tight have a tendency to break under pressure in some cases.
12-15-2013, 06:02 PM
#3562
yes, I believe it is necessary due to the flex in the chassis under heavy braking, acceleration, or bad crashes. I have never had an issue from it and would say it's nothing to worry about.
12-16-2013, 01:00 PM
#3566
[QUOTE=dMITIj;12794684]is there still problems with the pin goes through the plastic collar?
If people are still having problems with this then you can use the durango 410/210 ones that have threads in both ends and the pin has a flat spot. so you can double grub screw it if you want.
They are a direct fit
If people are still having problems with this then you can use the durango 410/210 ones that have threads in both ends and the pin has a flat spot. so you can double grub screw it if you want.
They are a direct fit
12-16-2013, 01:05 PM
#3568
Got my 2014 on the turf yesterday. Car is so so so good. Clay this weekend.
12-16-2013, 08:26 PM
#3569
slipper question. I think I might have ruined my slipper pads. I scraped the glaze off them a couple times now and have noticed a lot of white showing. This last race I was having to keep tightening my slipper to be able to clear a triple that is not that difficult normally. For those of you that have got ahold of the new 13 slipper pads what kind of material is used?
12-16-2013, 08:36 PM
#3570
I just got the 2014 slipper pads....I believe they are made out of asbestos