Associated RC12R5
08-14-2011, 02:32 PM
#2911
What side springs are you using? I ended up using silvers with a gold center on the 5.1. 30wt center 20wt side.
I'm thinking of using the blue center like you have. Front springs are up for grabs now. I plan to start with the .020 and see how it works.
I should have it done in a few weeks but the track isn't set for road course just oval for the summer.
I'm thinking of using the blue center like you have. Front springs are up for grabs now. I plan to start with the .020 and see how it works.
I should have it done in a few weeks but the track isn't set for road course just oval for the summer.
08-14-2011, 02:52 PM
#2912
What side springs are you using? I ended up using silvers with a gold center on the 5.1. 30wt center 20wt side.
I'm thinking of using the blue center like you have. Front springs are up for grabs now. I plan to start with the .020 and see how it works.
I should have it done in a few weeks but the track isn't set for road course just oval for the summer.
I'm thinking of using the blue center like you have. Front springs are up for grabs now. I plan to start with the .020 and see how it works.
I should have it done in a few weeks but the track isn't set for road course just oval for the summer.
Overall weight & balance same as 5.1
672gr ready to race without body, TRC Magenta tires trued to 42Fr, 44Rr
This is with the heavy side of the lipo forward, same as forward position on 5.1
Fr44%-Rr 56%
I use blue side 40wt, blue center 25wt on the 5.1, .020 front springs with 30k lube.
Will start with the same settings on the 5.2
btw.
It balances left to right perfectly with the electronics I have been using.
08-14-2011, 03:43 PM
#2915
Thanks RedBull.
I won't have any balance issues side to side with my electronics; Tekin RS, Spektrum 3500 and 2S LiFe pack.
I will step up the sides to blue and see how that works.
The track I race at is a bit bumpy and has several tight turns which is why I use the shock oils I have.
I won't have any balance issues side to side with my electronics; Tekin RS, Spektrum 3500 and 2S LiFe pack.
I will step up the sides to blue and see how that works.
The track I race at is a bit bumpy and has several tight turns which is why I use the shock oils I have.
08-14-2011, 06:15 PM
#2916
Thanks RedBull.
I won't have any balance issues side to side with my electronics; Tekin RS, Spektrum 3500 and 2S LiFe pack.
I will step up the sides to blue and see how that works.
The track I race at is a bit bumpy and has several tight turns which is why I use the shock oils I have.
I won't have any balance issues side to side with my electronics; Tekin RS, Spektrum 3500 and 2S LiFe pack.
I will step up the sides to blue and see how that works.
The track I race at is a bit bumpy and has several tight turns which is why I use the shock oils I have.
Our indoor track is very smooth, with high grip.
08-15-2011, 06:36 AM
#2918
It's not much of a difference, but just enough.
The rollover post is a lot further forward too.
I guess you could make it work if you had to, but it would not be quite right.
08-15-2011, 07:49 PM
#2921
i have a question about the center shock..it is driving me nuts.What other shocks can be used with this car if anyone knows?
08-15-2011, 07:54 PM
#2922
Thanks Dave,
I poked around a bit and looked at the exploded views online.
Looks like that shock standoff is actually part #4688.
And diff hub part#4608 and cone spacer #4609 are different as well. I'm trying to bring a 12r5 up to "current" status. LOL. Quite a list of parts!!!
Exploded views:
12R5.1
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso....1_Drawing.pdf
12R5
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...R5_Drawing.pdf
I poked around a bit and looked at the exploded views online.
Looks like that shock standoff is actually part #4688.
And diff hub part#4608 and cone spacer #4609 are different as well. I'm trying to bring a 12r5 up to "current" status. LOL. Quite a list of parts!!!
Exploded views:
12R5.1
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso....1_Drawing.pdf
12R5
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...R5_Drawing.pdf
08-15-2011, 08:34 PM
#2923
08-15-2011, 09:13 PM
#2924
can't seem to get the top thread on correctly it also seems to have very little movement to it has well.I have a rebuild on order should be here in few days...I going to rebuild it but I was wondering what else I may use just in case.
08-15-2011, 09:39 PM
#2925
Ah...yes. The 12R5 shock cap.
My best technique is to fill the shock with oil to just above the lip where the inside plastic ring seats. Pump the piston to make sure the reservoir is full and not trapping any air. Make sure the oil is bubbled out. Gently seat the plastic ring on the inside lip with the tip of a 1.5mm hex driver. A little oil should force itself around the ring. Lightly dab it out with the tip of a shop towel. Slip the o-ring over the piston shaft (I've long since caved in and just use new o-rings when I rebuild the shocks. It's so much easier, as they do swell after being in the shock for even a little while. Green Slime them. O-rings are a cheap consumable.)
The end cap: Hold it lightly so you can feel the threading. Lightly press it down on the threads and twist it backward. You should be able to feel a subtle click--maybe not even a click--more like a snick--when the start of the threads pass over each other. From right there, gently thread the shock cap on. If it's easy and goes right on, you should be good. If there's any resistance at all, don't force it! Just back it off until you feel the thread snick on your finger tips and start it again.
A properly built 12R5 shock lasts a long time. I like them a lot. I think the main frustrations are experienced when guys rush the initial build and cross-thread the end caps, or if they try to reuse swollen o-rings and, again, can't get the caps to seat properly.
My best technique is to fill the shock with oil to just above the lip where the inside plastic ring seats. Pump the piston to make sure the reservoir is full and not trapping any air. Make sure the oil is bubbled out. Gently seat the plastic ring on the inside lip with the tip of a 1.5mm hex driver. A little oil should force itself around the ring. Lightly dab it out with the tip of a shop towel. Slip the o-ring over the piston shaft (I've long since caved in and just use new o-rings when I rebuild the shocks. It's so much easier, as they do swell after being in the shock for even a little while. Green Slime them. O-rings are a cheap consumable.)
The end cap: Hold it lightly so you can feel the threading. Lightly press it down on the threads and twist it backward. You should be able to feel a subtle click--maybe not even a click--more like a snick--when the start of the threads pass over each other. From right there, gently thread the shock cap on. If it's easy and goes right on, you should be good. If there's any resistance at all, don't force it! Just back it off until you feel the thread snick on your finger tips and start it again.
A properly built 12R5 shock lasts a long time. I like them a lot. I think the main frustrations are experienced when guys rush the initial build and cross-thread the end caps, or if they try to reuse swollen o-rings and, again, can't get the caps to seat properly.