Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

Where can I buy Tamiya blue titanium turnbuckles for the camber links?

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

What Racing4Evo said is spot on.
The front pulley is on the wrong side.

regards Roy

haywood

iTrader: (49)

Does the kit need ecs or dcj in the front? Do the stock joints produce chatter like the Xray and others?

zaraz

iTrader: (38)

+1, and if it needs ecs, are the arrowmax ones better, or spec r, never mind arrowmax are better, but shipping is so stupid, 23 dollars just for shipping, but you can get lot of sets of their ecs shipped for that price, anyone want to split shipping I,m in canada,lol, let me know, and maybe we can get a group buy on these items and save on shipping

mhavlena

What are the handling changes/differences between running the camber links long and short?

I copied Jilles snowbirds setup, car runs great in the tight corners but is quite loose in the large sweepers on power. Played with shock position, shock springs, rear camber and sway bars with no effect.

Now thinking of playing with the camber links, perhaps making them shorter in the rear, or should I make them shorter in the front?

Appreciate any advice!!

2-Bad

iTrader: (24)

High speed sweepers, think droop first imo....

ngo8

its $23 shipping but you get it overnight with dhl they did for me anyway .....i have both arrowmax and spec-r v2 and the arrowmax are stronger but the sprec r v2 wont fall apart in the middle of a run like it did yesterday and i had the set screw thread locked very weird i hope it doesnt happen again .

zaraz

iTrader: (38)

sorry which ones feel apart, arrowmax or spec r, also any mods needed to fit the spec r v2, thanks

ngo8

arrowmax not sure why but it happened.

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

I just put the ver. 2 spec r ecd shafts on my car and it went smoothly the only issue I ran into was the wheel hex being a bit tight when putting them back on. I just put on a wheel and crank down on the wheel to set the hex adapter flush the steering knuckle.

banquer

Thanks a lot, Racing4Evo, this was my mistake.
Cheers!

MatJ

Hello everyone,

Im new to this forum, so please excuse me for posting in the wrong area if I do.
Anyway, I currently own a 417 and for xmas, I got a new servo, Savox SC-1251MG, the low profile one.
Before I was running another digital servo and everything was good.
Now, I just swapped the servo's, did some re-wiring and when i turn my steering stick left/right, the steering knuckles doesn't touch the C-Hub (about 3mm off) whereas with my old servo it was touching.
Also I noticed something weird, if I rotate the servo whn it's NOT connected to the battery (ESC to battery), the servo is able to rotate about 110-125° until it's at full lock.
When the ESC is on and connected to the battery and the servo is getting power, when I steer left/right, it only rotates about 70°, which is why it doesn't touch the C-Hub.
What is wrong ??
I tried another receiver, ESC and still problem there :/

Thank you very much for any help, I hope it will be fixed soon

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Check your EPA on your transmitter.
Not all servo's have the same trow.
Some brand servo's need adjustment of EPA after mounting it on your chassis.

regards Roy

MatJ

Roy, thank you for your hint, I just tried to adjust the EPA on my transmitter (Sanwa Gemini II), the max it proposes me is 120%, I set it at 120% and it would only rotate to 70°, if I went lower than 120 (i.e 100 ...), the servo would rotate less then 70° ...

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Hmmmmmmm most servo's have a trow of 60°
I have it's Team orion counterpart and had to dail it in a bit down on the EPA.
Do you use a servosaver?
If so, how long is the length of the horn from centre to ball?
Check below specs of the 1251MG.
It should be ok

regards Roy

Dimensions(mm): 40.8X20.2X25.4
Weight(g): 44.5
Speed(@4.8V sec/60): .10
Torque(@4.8V oz-in): 97.2
Speed(@6.0V sec/60): .09
Torque(@6.0V oz-in): 125.0
Gear: Metal
Bearing: 2BB
Case: Aluminum
25 Tooth Spline