68LikesTamiya TA05 Touring Sedan
02-06-2006, 04:22 PM
#2912
Originally Posted by RCGaryK
Well, to be honest, It's pushing and it's loose. I think part of it is just the fact that you cannot get enough mechanical steering throw out of the car too, but it was pushy at low speed
I'm no carpet racer but it sounds like you just don't have any traction at all. You can try what the guys here have mentioned but also try to get your car to weight transfer more (more body roll). That means softer shocks all around and/or more droop front and back. Washing out on power means you need more front droop- lets the weight rotate to the back when you get on throttle. Pushing off power means you don't have enough droop in back- the weight isn't shifting to the front tires.
Hard to tell without knowing your set up though... what are you running anyway?
02-06-2006, 05:33 PM
#2915
Originally Posted by Turbonium
sup Billy? i have one here.. if you get a chance to get up here, i can show it to ya. i did buy the Xenon chassis, but havent installed yet... actually, i put it on, then reassembled with the tub for TCS use in April...
Brant
02-06-2006, 09:15 PM
#2917
Originally Posted by POOKYT
April is right my man!!!! I think we could get the 05 around the track and run in GT1 over here. I would love to bang the guys around in a carbon chassis car. Lutz and Dynoman would CRY!!!!!
Brant
Brant
02-06-2006, 09:20 PM
#2918
Originally Posted by Turbonium
no joke!!! i did run mine in the saturday club race with 19T.. not bad, considering i had just barely gotten the car in time to assemble before we left!
Brant
02-07-2006, 08:02 AM
#2919
Originally Posted by MikeR
Hey Gary,
I'm no carpet racer but it sounds like you just don't have any traction at all. You can try what the guys here have mentioned but also try to get your car to weight transfer more (more body roll). That means softer shocks all around and/or more droop front and back. Washing out on power means you need more front droop- lets the weight rotate to the back when you get on throttle. Pushing off power means you don't have enough droop in back- the weight isn't shifting to the front tires.
Hard to tell without knowing your set up though... what are you running anyway?
I'm no carpet racer but it sounds like you just don't have any traction at all. You can try what the guys here have mentioned but also try to get your car to weight transfer more (more body roll). That means softer shocks all around and/or more droop front and back. Washing out on power means you need more front droop- lets the weight rotate to the back when you get on throttle. Pushing off power means you don't have enough droop in back- the weight isn't shifting to the front tires.
Hard to tell without knowing your set up though... what are you running anyway?
Front:
60wt oil-3 hole pistons
Blue spring
Red bar
Top of shock mounted 1 hole in from all the way out on graphite tower
Bottom of shock mounted in middle of the 3 hole side of arms
4-deg front uprights
Rear ackerman position
Front one-way
1XB front block, 1XD rear block
no kickup
1mm shim in front of arms, arms shimmed forward
Rear:
40WT oil- 3 hole pistons
Yellow springs
Red bar
Top of shock 2 holes in from all the way out in tower
Bottom of shock middle hole
Aluminum 0-deg rear hub carriers
1XC front block, 1XA rear block for 1 deg rear toe total
1.5mm shim in front of arm, arms shimmed forward
Tamiya A’s w/Tamiya Black inserts
0-offset rims
5mm hubs
Red and blue wheel shims
02-07-2006, 08:06 AM
#2920
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
it sounds like you have gone to far standing your shocks up. I personaly run the two hole pistons all round with 50wt front and 40wt rear, red sway bars all round. although I may go up to the next roll bar as it pitches TO far in a corner.
One thing I did find, with the control tyre we use, on stock 24mm rims, the tyres moved o much which made for some 'interesting' handling. After going to inch-up 26mm rims to stretch and flatten the tyre, and run hard inserts, it is dialed.
One thing I did find, with the control tyre we use, on stock 24mm rims, the tyres moved o much which made for some 'interesting' handling. After going to inch-up 26mm rims to stretch and flatten the tyre, and run hard inserts, it is dialed.
02-07-2006, 10:35 AM
#2921
Yea dude, I'm actually laid over all the way, running 40 weight all the way around with yellow springs and 3holes. I took off the bars completely.
02-07-2006, 11:49 AM
#2922
Handling issues!
Hi Gary,
I run mostly at the Tamiya track here in Aliso Viejo and run some club racing indoor asphalt. Been running Tamiya cars for the past 5 years and I don't claim to be an expert so take my suggestions with a grain of salt!
My TA05 works good in outdoors and indoors with low and high grip tracks.
The indoor being high and right now at the Tamiya track is low to medium traction.
Anyway, I've ran stock and 19 turn motors in my car and both work very well ,except the 19turn does make the car a little twitchy if you know what I mean.
All your settings look good and with the TA05 there are a lot of set-up that work, you obviously have a lot of hop ups and want to get the most out of your car. I too have the LW suspension and a lot of blue included with the LW.
All I can see that I might suggest is running a lot more toe-in. I'm running 3 to 3.5 degrees toe depending on track conditions, but never any less than that.
I think that would help a lot in the rear traction issue but not sure what the problem is in the front.
Another thing is Tamiya tires can be unpredictable, I've used A's,B's,B2's,B3's etc, etc. and the performance of the tires are not very consistant. I've tried thin superthin ,hard super hard soft medium etc, etc, on the inserts and they still aren't consistant from one set to the other. I know in TCS we have to use them and we have to find a reliable set up for them but this issue is a real headbanger. Unfortunately, I have no suggestions on this issue. Sorry! Still trying to find my own tire combo!
I'm sure you've already checked but I have to ask! The tweak on the car, I mean this by using a tweak station you know the one with the bars and the bubble. After setting ride height, camber, toe then set it up on the tweak station and see if there is something going on there.
I'm wondering if your chassis is permanently tweaked. After all it's only plastic and I know of a couple of guys who have already replaced their chassis and they did this after the handling started going bad on them and no changes were made to cause this. Then they said it was perfect, so this tells me that the chassis are going bad after time or just one too many hard hits!
This is a cheap fix, I believe it's only $7-$10 for a new chassis. So it will not break you!
I hope I've been of some help!
Good Luck and don't forget to HAVE FUN!
P.S. TRF RACER on page 423 in the 415 thread has some interesting suggestions on set up for carpet. Might want to read that, it will pertain to the TA05 also!
I run mostly at the Tamiya track here in Aliso Viejo and run some club racing indoor asphalt. Been running Tamiya cars for the past 5 years and I don't claim to be an expert so take my suggestions with a grain of salt!
My TA05 works good in outdoors and indoors with low and high grip tracks.
The indoor being high and right now at the Tamiya track is low to medium traction.
Anyway, I've ran stock and 19 turn motors in my car and both work very well ,except the 19turn does make the car a little twitchy if you know what I mean.
All your settings look good and with the TA05 there are a lot of set-up that work, you obviously have a lot of hop ups and want to get the most out of your car. I too have the LW suspension and a lot of blue included with the LW.
All I can see that I might suggest is running a lot more toe-in. I'm running 3 to 3.5 degrees toe depending on track conditions, but never any less than that.
I think that would help a lot in the rear traction issue but not sure what the problem is in the front.
Another thing is Tamiya tires can be unpredictable, I've used A's,B's,B2's,B3's etc, etc. and the performance of the tires are not very consistant. I've tried thin superthin ,hard super hard soft medium etc, etc, on the inserts and they still aren't consistant from one set to the other. I know in TCS we have to use them and we have to find a reliable set up for them but this issue is a real headbanger. Unfortunately, I have no suggestions on this issue. Sorry! Still trying to find my own tire combo!
I'm sure you've already checked but I have to ask! The tweak on the car, I mean this by using a tweak station you know the one with the bars and the bubble. After setting ride height, camber, toe then set it up on the tweak station and see if there is something going on there.
I'm wondering if your chassis is permanently tweaked. After all it's only plastic and I know of a couple of guys who have already replaced their chassis and they did this after the handling started going bad on them and no changes were made to cause this. Then they said it was perfect, so this tells me that the chassis are going bad after time or just one too many hard hits!
This is a cheap fix, I believe it's only $7-$10 for a new chassis. So it will not break you!
I hope I've been of some help!
Good Luck and don't forget to HAVE FUN!
P.S. TRF RACER on page 423 in the 415 thread has some interesting suggestions on set up for carpet. Might want to read that, it will pertain to the TA05 also!
Last edited by maxepower; 02-07-2006 at 12:12 PM.
02-07-2006, 12:02 PM
#2923
Tamiya tire issues!!!
Originally Posted by DA_cookie_monst
it sounds like you have gone to far standing your shocks up. I personaly run the two hole pistons all round with 50wt front and 40wt rear, red sway bars all round. although I may go up to the next roll bar as it pitches TO far in a corner.
One thing I did find, with the control tyre we use, on stock 24mm rims, the tyres moved o much which made for some 'interesting' handling. After going to inch-up 26mm rims to stretch and flatten the tyre, and run hard inserts, it is dialed.
One thing I did find, with the control tyre we use, on stock 24mm rims, the tyres moved o much which made for some 'interesting' handling. After going to inch-up 26mm rims to stretch and flatten the tyre, and run hard inserts, it is dialed.
02-07-2006, 12:38 PM
#2924
Originally Posted by maxepower
Hi Gary,
I run mostly at the Tamiya track here in Aliso Viejo and run some club racing indoor asphalt. Been running Tamiya cars for the past 5 years and I don't claim to be an expert so take my suggestions with a grain of salt!
My TA05 works good in outdoors and indoors with low and high grip tracks.
The indoor being high and right now at the Tamiya track is low to medium traction.
Anyway, I've ran stock and 19 turn motors in my car and both work very well ,except the 19turn does make the car a little twitchy if you know what I mean.
All your settings look good and with the TA05 there are a lot of set-up that work, you obviously have a lot of hop ups and want to get the most out of your car. I too have the LW suspension and a lot of blue included with the LW.
All I can see that I might suggest is running a lot more toe-in. I'm running 3 to 3.5 degrees toe depending on track conditions, but never any less than that.
I think that would help a lot in the rear traction issue but not sure what the problem is in the front.
Another thing is Tamiya tires can be unpredictable, I've used A's,B's,B2's,B3's etc, etc. and the performance of the tires are not very consistant. I've tried thin superthin ,hard super hard soft medium etc, etc, on the inserts and they still aren't consistant from one set to the other. I know in TCS we have to use them and we have to find a reliable set up for them but this issue is a real headbanger. Unfortunately, I have no suggestions on this issue. Sorry! Still trying to find my own tire combo!
I'm sure you've already checked but I have to ask! The tweak on the car, I mean this by using a tweak station you know the one with the bars and the bubble. After setting ride height, camber, toe then set it up on the tweak station and see if there is something going on there.
I'm wondering if your chassis is permanently tweaked. After all it's only plastic and I know of a couple of guys who have already replaced their chassis and they did this after the handling started going bad on them and no changes were made to cause this. Then they said it was perfect, so this tells me that the chassis are going bad after time or just one too many hard hits!
This is a cheap fix, I believe it's only $7-$10 for a new chassis. So it will not break you!
I hope I've been of some help!
Good Luck and don't forget to HAVE FUN!
P.S. TRF RACER on page 423 in the 415 thread has some interesting suggestions on set up for carpet. Might want to read that, it will pertain to the TA05 also!
I run mostly at the Tamiya track here in Aliso Viejo and run some club racing indoor asphalt. Been running Tamiya cars for the past 5 years and I don't claim to be an expert so take my suggestions with a grain of salt!
My TA05 works good in outdoors and indoors with low and high grip tracks.
The indoor being high and right now at the Tamiya track is low to medium traction.
Anyway, I've ran stock and 19 turn motors in my car and both work very well ,except the 19turn does make the car a little twitchy if you know what I mean.
All your settings look good and with the TA05 there are a lot of set-up that work, you obviously have a lot of hop ups and want to get the most out of your car. I too have the LW suspension and a lot of blue included with the LW.
All I can see that I might suggest is running a lot more toe-in. I'm running 3 to 3.5 degrees toe depending on track conditions, but never any less than that.
I think that would help a lot in the rear traction issue but not sure what the problem is in the front.
Another thing is Tamiya tires can be unpredictable, I've used A's,B's,B2's,B3's etc, etc. and the performance of the tires are not very consistant. I've tried thin superthin ,hard super hard soft medium etc, etc, on the inserts and they still aren't consistant from one set to the other. I know in TCS we have to use them and we have to find a reliable set up for them but this issue is a real headbanger. Unfortunately, I have no suggestions on this issue. Sorry! Still trying to find my own tire combo!
I'm sure you've already checked but I have to ask! The tweak on the car, I mean this by using a tweak station you know the one with the bars and the bubble. After setting ride height, camber, toe then set it up on the tweak station and see if there is something going on there.
I'm wondering if your chassis is permanently tweaked. After all it's only plastic and I know of a couple of guys who have already replaced their chassis and they did this after the handling started going bad on them and no changes were made to cause this. Then they said it was perfect, so this tells me that the chassis are going bad after time or just one too many hard hits!
This is a cheap fix, I believe it's only $7-$10 for a new chassis. So it will not break you!
I hope I've been of some help!
Good Luck and don't forget to HAVE FUN!
P.S. TRF RACER on page 423 in the 415 thread has some interesting suggestions on set up for carpet. Might want to read that, it will pertain to the TA05 also!
02-07-2006, 02:30 PM
#2925
Originally Posted by RCGaryK
Front:
60wt oil-3 hole pistons
Blue spring
Red bar
Top of shock mounted 1 hole in from all the way out on graphite tower
Bottom of shock mounted in middle of the 3 hole side of arms
4-deg front uprights
Rear ackerman position
Front one-way
1XB front block, 1XD rear block
no kickup
1mm shim in front of arms, arms shimmed forward
Rear:
40WT oil- 3 hole pistons
Yellow springs
Red bar
Top of shock 2 holes in from all the way out in tower
Bottom of shock middle hole
Aluminum 0-deg rear hub carriers
1XC front block, 1XA rear block for 1 deg rear toe total
1.5mm shim in front of arm, arms shimmed forward
Tamiya A’s w/Tamiya Black inserts
0-offset rims
5mm hubs
Red and blue wheel shims
60wt oil-3 hole pistons
Blue spring
Red bar
Top of shock mounted 1 hole in from all the way out on graphite tower
Bottom of shock mounted in middle of the 3 hole side of arms
4-deg front uprights
Rear ackerman position
Front one-way
1XB front block, 1XD rear block
no kickup
1mm shim in front of arms, arms shimmed forward
Rear:
40WT oil- 3 hole pistons
Yellow springs
Red bar
Top of shock 2 holes in from all the way out in tower
Bottom of shock middle hole
Aluminum 0-deg rear hub carriers
1XC front block, 1XA rear block for 1 deg rear toe total
1.5mm shim in front of arm, arms shimmed forward
Tamiya A’s w/Tamiya Black inserts
0-offset rims
5mm hubs
Red and blue wheel shims
1XC front block, 1XA rear block for 1 deg rear toe total- You should be running atleast -2.5deg toe in. More toe= more cornerspeed. Everyone that is a mere mortal driver (that includes me!) must drive with atleast 2deg of toe with 2.5 being optimal. Cars just reacts much crisper, go where you tell it and allows you to jump on the throttle setting up straights. I guarantee the car is already scrubbing speed on the straight anyway because it is lacking the grip generated by the rear toe.