Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
Tech Fanatic
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What's a good ride height for high bite track
Tech Adept
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Tech Master
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Don't use the paper method....it has been written about a lot. Wrong way of doing it. Just set it by eye, not too tight and not too loose. I set it so that the pinion is just out from the spur...so that it's not bottoming out in the grooves. You can spin the spur and feel when it is too tight.
I guess I put it tight and then back out just a tad. The gears today have a bulit in tolerance so that they won't completely bind. That is why the "old" paper method is wrong and shouldn't be used. I'm getting my info from numerous articles by manufs. and experienced racers.
Everyone I know that has experience does the same thing.
I guess I put it tight and then back out just a tad. The gears today have a bulit in tolerance so that they won't completely bind. That is why the "old" paper method is wrong and shouldn't be used. I'm getting my info from numerous articles by manufs. and experienced racers.
Everyone I know that has experience does the same thing.
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Don't use the paper method....it has been written about a lot. Wrong way of doing it. Just set it by eye, not too tight and not too loose. I set it so that the pinion is just out from the spur...so that it's not bottoming out in the grooves. You can spin the spur and feel when it is too tight.
I guess I put it tight and then back out just a tad. The gears today have a bulit in tolerance so that they won't completely bind. That is why the "old" paper method is wrong and shouldn't be used. I'm getting my info from numerous articles by manufs. and experienced racers.
Everyone I know that has experience does the same thing.
I guess I put it tight and then back out just a tad. The gears today have a bulit in tolerance so that they won't completely bind. That is why the "old" paper method is wrong and shouldn't be used. I'm getting my info from numerous articles by manufs. and experienced racers.
Everyone I know that has experience does the same thing.
Well said" 100% correct info.
[QUOTE=larlev;9178204]Don't use the paper method....it has been written about a lot. Wrong way of doing it. Just set it by eye, not too tight and not too loose. I set it so that the pinion is just out from the spur...so that it's not bottoming out in the grooves. You can spin the spur and feel when it is too tight.
I guess I put it tight and then back out just a tad. The gears today have a bulit in tolerance so that they won't completely bind. That is why the "old" paper method is wrong and shouldn't be used. I'm getting my info from numerous articles by manufs. and experienced racers.
Everyone I know that has experience does the same thing.[/QUOT
Thank you!! Very helpful.
I guess I put it tight and then back out just a tad. The gears today have a bulit in tolerance so that they won't completely bind. That is why the "old" paper method is wrong and shouldn't be used. I'm getting my info from numerous articles by manufs. and experienced racers.
Everyone I know that has experience does the same thing.[/QUOT
Thank you!! Very helpful.
Tech Addict
Don't use the paper method....it has been written about a lot. Wrong way of doing it. Just set it by eye, not too tight and not too loose. I set it so that the pinion is just out from the spur...so that it's not bottoming out in the grooves. You can spin the spur and feel when it is too tight.
I guess I put it tight and then back out just a tad. The gears today have a bulit in tolerance so that they won't completely bind. That is why the "old" paper method is wrong and shouldn't be used. I'm getting my info from numerous articles by manufs. and experienced racers.
Everyone I know that has experience does the same thing.
I guess I put it tight and then back out just a tad. The gears today have a bulit in tolerance so that they won't completely bind. That is why the "old" paper method is wrong and shouldn't be used. I'm getting my info from numerous articles by manufs. and experienced racers.
Everyone I know that has experience does the same thing.
Though with a truck that uses 48 pitch just use the paper method, it's honestly the fastest and easiest when your new. It works and still works.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Need some serious help here guys, run on a hard clay track that dusts up pretty bad during the run and I just can not seem to come up with a good tire combo to keep this thing hooked up. have tried subcultures. double dees, snipers which seem to be the better but wear out quick. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Tech Master
iTrader: (103)
Try Cityblocks or maybe Calibers.
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Need some serious help here guys, run on a hard clay track that dusts up pretty bad during the run and I just can not seem to come up with a good tire combo to keep this thing hooked up. have tried subcultures. double dees, snipers which seem to be the better but wear out quick. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Tech Master
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Tech Adept
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savox servo horn
I'm running a savox sc1256tg servo and am trying to find a aluminum horn I bought a gh racing horn and it doesnt fit so does anyone have an actual part# for any brand of aluminum servo horn just want one that fits . thanks
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
If memory serves me they are the same spline count as a futaba servo.
For those of you running the SNR CF Ackerman Bar, I remember you have to do some mod to it to work. But I can't remember what it is and what the parts are for it. Can someone post it and the part #'s to make it work. I'm getting one today, along with the CF Center Diff Top Plate and the CF Hinge Pin covers. Thanks!
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)