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Old 05-28-2011, 12:00 PM
  #10666  
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What's a good ride height for high bite track
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Old 05-28-2011, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by wcrase101
no mods on mine, just don't over tighen it.
Yep. Same here. Screwed right on
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Old 05-28-2011, 12:28 PM
  #10668  
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Originally Posted by stompy
I am new to electric. Whats the best way to set the mesh?
Don't use the paper method....it has been written about a lot. Wrong way of doing it. Just set it by eye, not too tight and not too loose. I set it so that the pinion is just out from the spur...so that it's not bottoming out in the grooves. You can spin the spur and feel when it is too tight.

I guess I put it tight and then back out just a tad. The gears today have a bulit in tolerance so that they won't completely bind. That is why the "old" paper method is wrong and shouldn't be used. I'm getting my info from numerous articles by manufs. and experienced racers.

Everyone I know that has experience does the same thing.
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Old 05-28-2011, 12:40 PM
  #10669  
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Originally Posted by larlev
Don't use the paper method....it has been written about a lot. Wrong way of doing it. Just set it by eye, not too tight and not too loose. I set it so that the pinion is just out from the spur...so that it's not bottoming out in the grooves. You can spin the spur and feel when it is too tight.

I guess I put it tight and then back out just a tad. The gears today have a bulit in tolerance so that they won't completely bind. That is why the "old" paper method is wrong and shouldn't be used. I'm getting my info from numerous articles by manufs. and experienced racers.

Everyone I know that has experience does the same thing.

Well said" 100% correct info.
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Old 05-28-2011, 01:22 PM
  #10670  
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[QUOTE=larlev;9178204]Don't use the paper method....it has been written about a lot. Wrong way of doing it. Just set it by eye, not too tight and not too loose. I set it so that the pinion is just out from the spur...so that it's not bottoming out in the grooves. You can spin the spur and feel when it is too tight.

I guess I put it tight and then back out just a tad. The gears today have a bulit in tolerance so that they won't completely bind. That is why the "old" paper method is wrong and shouldn't be used. I'm getting my info from numerous articles by manufs. and experienced racers.

Everyone I know that has experience does the same thing.[/QUOT


Thank you!! Very helpful.
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Old 05-28-2011, 01:40 PM
  #10671  
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Originally Posted by larlev
Don't use the paper method....it has been written about a lot. Wrong way of doing it. Just set it by eye, not too tight and not too loose. I set it so that the pinion is just out from the spur...so that it's not bottoming out in the grooves. You can spin the spur and feel when it is too tight.

I guess I put it tight and then back out just a tad. The gears today have a bulit in tolerance so that they won't completely bind. That is why the "old" paper method is wrong and shouldn't be used. I'm getting my info from numerous articles by manufs. and experienced racers.

Everyone I know that has experience does the same thing.
When using MOD 1 pitch just set it by look/feel. It's pretty easy to do it that way with MOD 1 pitch as it's easy to look at the teeth.

Though with a truck that uses 48 pitch just use the paper method, it's honestly the fastest and easiest when your new. It works and still works.
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Old 05-28-2011, 02:17 PM
  #10672  
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Need some serious help here guys, run on a hard clay track that dusts up pretty bad during the run and I just can not seem to come up with a good tire combo to keep this thing hooked up. have tried subcultures. double dees, snipers which seem to be the better but wear out quick. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 05-28-2011, 02:35 PM
  #10673  
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Try Cityblocks or maybe Calibers.
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Old 05-28-2011, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by shadowracer24
Need some serious help here guys, run on a hard clay track that dusts up pretty bad during the run and I just can not seem to come up with a good tire combo to keep this thing hooked up. have tried subcultures. double dees, snipers which seem to be the better but wear out quick. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
AKA gridirons SS, or enduro SS. You want something that can get through the dust yet bend and grab the hard surface. The AKA's wear fantastic and have a good rubber compound that sticks.
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Old 05-28-2011, 03:04 PM
  #10675  
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Originally Posted by kerby
What's a good ride height for high bite track
Stock setting works fine.
30mm front and 29mm rear..if I remember correctly
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Old 05-28-2011, 03:08 PM
  #10676  
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Default savox servo horn

I'm running a savox sc1256tg servo and am trying to find a aluminum horn I bought a gh racing horn and it doesnt fit so does anyone have an actual part# for any brand of aluminum servo horn just want one that fits . thanks
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Old 05-28-2011, 03:27 PM
  #10677  
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Originally Posted by larlev
Stock setting works fine.
30mm front and 29mm rear..if I remember correctly


backwards if anything.....you wouldn't want to run your front end Higher than the rear.
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Old 05-28-2011, 03:55 PM
  #10678  
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Originally Posted by retsoorkcuf
I'm running a savox sc1256tg servo and am trying to find a aluminum horn I bought a gh racing horn and it doesnt fit so does anyone have an actual part# for any brand of aluminum servo horn just want one that fits . thanks
If memory serves me they are the same spline count as a futaba servo.
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Old 05-28-2011, 03:59 PM
  #10679  
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911
For those of you running the SNR CF Ackerman Bar, I remember you have to do some mod to it to work. But I can't remember what it is and what the parts are for it. Can someone post it and the part #'s to make it work. I'm getting one today, along with the CF Center Diff Top Plate and the CF Hinge Pin covers. Thanks!
where are you getting the CF hinge pin covers from?
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Old 05-28-2011, 04:09 PM
  #10680  
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Originally Posted by larlev
I see snr has higher shock towers by 9mm....whats the advantage to using a higher tower?
i would also like to hear some feedback on this
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