1LikesTLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)
09-10-2012, 11:35 AM
#2686
In the TLR manuals, the screws used in the step have a 1:1 image of the screw, so you can always just lay the screw over the image to see if the length is correct.
Question? I understand the shims that go under the front pivot mount to give the truck various degrees of ato squat in rear motor config. I have set mine up for mid motor though. Other than letting the screws pass them to go into the tranny, why are the inserts used for anti squat too. and do the shims and inserts need to match to get correct antisquat. My kit is built per instructions and it looks like the shims alone could get the job done.
You just need to use a Dremel (or similar high-speed rotary tool) with a sanding drum and remove material until there is no interference. Nothing special other than that.
09-10-2012, 12:06 PM
#2688
09-10-2012, 12:40 PM
#2691
wow those calipers are pretty nice for 15 bucks
09-10-2012, 12:55 PM
#2692
Okay, since I didn't know about that, what else am I going to need as far as tools to build this truck. I am getting a set of metric hex wrenches, I am using my family's tool kit that has tons of stuff in it. I plan on buying the diff tool also. What else would you recommend?
09-10-2012, 12:57 PM
#2693
You can measure the length of the threads with calipers. All screws are slightly shorter than their called out length, for example, a 3 x 20mm screw will really have threads around 19.8mm long. Also, when measuring flat head screws, you measure from the base of the screw to the end of the threads.
In the TLR manuals, the screws used in the step have a 1:1 image of the screw, so you can always just lay the screw over the image to see if the length is correct.
The transmission mounting stacks upto the top spacer. The top spacer, and anti-squat shim must be the same number to get the proper stack up height.
Is it possible those screws might have accidentally been used some where else?
I'd suggest 17/84
Dan Hissam was the engineer for all 3 vehicles, which feedback from Todd Hodge and Jukka Steenari as well as many of our team drivers.
You want to accelerate through the jump face which will help the suspension compress properly, without holding onto the throttle when leaving the jump.
You just need to use a Dremel (or similar high-speed rotary tool) with a sanding drum and remove material until there is no interference. Nothing special other than that.
In the TLR manuals, the screws used in the step have a 1:1 image of the screw, so you can always just lay the screw over the image to see if the length is correct.
The transmission mounting stacks upto the top spacer. The top spacer, and anti-squat shim must be the same number to get the proper stack up height.
Is it possible those screws might have accidentally been used some where else?
I'd suggest 17/84
Dan Hissam was the engineer for all 3 vehicles, which feedback from Todd Hodge and Jukka Steenari as well as many of our team drivers.
You want to accelerate through the jump face which will help the suspension compress properly, without holding onto the throttle when leaving the jump.
You just need to use a Dremel (or similar high-speed rotary tool) with a sanding drum and remove material until there is no interference. Nothing special other than that.
is it 4 3x 20 for the trans to the frame or did i mess up some thanks?
09-10-2012, 01:31 PM
#2694
Okay, since I didn't know about that, what else am I going to need as far as tools to build this truck. I am getting a set of metric hex wrenches, I am using my family's tool kit that has tons of stuff in it. I plan on buying the diff tool also. What else would you recommend?
A good Xacto knife and blades always helps.
I like the TLR Shock shaft wrench as well.
Soldering iron, solder.
Vaseline or Chapstick is good to use on the turnbuckle threads - otherss use black grease and green slime.
CA glue
09-10-2012, 02:22 PM
#2695
They've been out for a year or two. Here's the link to them.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...n-2--LOSA7644G
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...n-2--LOSA7644G
09-10-2012, 03:03 PM
#2696
Tech Rookie
Wow! I coulda had an 86?
09-10-2012, 03:36 PM
#2697
Well I didn't need calipers to build my truck, but you will need a good quality set of metric hex drivers and at least a 7mm and 5.5mm nut drivers. A 5mm helps too, but Losi does give you a Tamiya box wrench with all the sizes on.
A good Xacto knife and blades always helps.
I like the TLR Shock shaft wrench as well.
Soldering iron, solder.
Vaseline or Chapstick is good to use on the turnbuckle threads - otherss use black grease and green slime.
CA glue
A good Xacto knife and blades always helps.
I like the TLR Shock shaft wrench as well.
Soldering iron, solder.
Vaseline or Chapstick is good to use on the turnbuckle threads - otherss use black grease and green slime.
CA glue
09-10-2012, 04:00 PM
#2698
okay, i have green slime, ca glue, xacto knife and blades. i have the hexes in my family's tool box and the box wrench. also, which of the team sr shock towers do i need to buy? there are two options, the $50 ones or the $25 ones. the $50 ones come with the tower and the tower assembly ( dont know what that means) and the $25 one only comes with the shock tower and some nuts and bolts.
Forget the optional shock towers. Unnecessary.
09-10-2012, 04:11 PM
#2699
okay, i have green slime, ca glue, xacto knife and blades. i have the hexes in my family's tool box and the box wrench. also, which of the team sr shock towers do i need to buy? there are two options, the $50 ones or the $25 ones. the $50 ones come with the tower and the tower assembly ( dont know what that means) and the $25 one only comes with the shock tower and some nuts and bolts.
