164LikesTamiya TB Evo 6
09-06-2014, 05:10 AM
#706
Tech Master
In my experience. When you put toe at the hubs. It plants the rear end too much. 0 degree hubs have always been my choice.
09-06-2014, 01:53 PM
#707
Tech Adept
well I'm about ready to start this evo 6 build, I'll be running it in 17.5.can you guys recommend a starting place for pinion and spur and pitch. thanks
09-06-2014, 02:43 PM
#708
I give my EVO now finally up and use some parts as a replacement for my TRF and the rest is sold.
Was driving today and always the same problems with the spool and gears, no nerve more.
Goodbye EVO 6 Thread
Was driving today and always the same problems with the spool and gears, no nerve more.
Goodbye EVO 6 Thread
09-06-2014, 04:29 PM
#709
[QUOTE=Simmi;13517743]I give my EVO now finally up and use some parts as a replacement for my TRF and the rest is sold.
Was driving today and always the same problems with the spool and gears, no nerve
Ok, I guess 419 is the next project destination in a few months.
Was driving today and always the same problems with the spool and gears, no nerve
Ok, I guess 419 is the next project destination in a few months.
Last edited by CW22; 10-06-2014 at 08:54 PM.
09-06-2014, 06:02 PM
#710
come on! What is wrong with your car? I do wonder how my will hold up, my first run will be later this month. I'm using carbon reinforced gears in the transmission cases, but I minimized the amount of shims under the pinion gear to reduce as much of the dirty/grindy gear feeling against the ring gear as possible. No slop, turns nicely, but it's hard to tell if the mesh is good. Since the kit called for 0.3mm and I only have 0.1mm between the pinion and the smaller bearing, I worry a bit.
Fingers crossed!
09-07-2014, 10:22 AM
#711
Nothing.
If you read the TB03 and TB04 threads there is always a universal undercurrent of users that have continuing problems with the drivetrain. Setting them up properly past the instructions isn't in everyone's skill set.
Some people are just cut out for belt drives.
If you read the TB03 and TB04 threads there is always a universal undercurrent of users that have continuing problems with the drivetrain. Setting them up properly past the instructions isn't in everyone's skill set.
Some people are just cut out for belt drives.
09-07-2014, 10:43 AM
#712
I do wonder how my will hold up, my first run will be later this month. I'm using carbon reinforced gears in the transmission cases, but I minimized the amount of shims under the pinion gear to reduce as much of the dirty/grindy gear feeling against the ring gear as possible. No slop, turns nicely, but it's hard to tell if the mesh is good. Since the kit called for 0.3mm and I only have 0.1mm between the pinion and the smaller bearing, I worry
The way to reduce plunge is to add shims on the side of the shaft that is outside the case till you can't fit anymore.
The 40t tb04 ring gears have some molding irregularities that show up with a "rough spot" that shows up at even intervals if you turn it by hand. Where it seems like its going to be the death of the gearbox, all the roughness goes away after you run the car and bed in the gears once.
If the OCD in you can't stand the idea of them not being perfect, buy two packages of Tamiya 51255 Evo5 39 tooth one way gears, throw the pinions away, and install them instead of the 40T TB04 ring gears. You will have to adjust your gear ratio slightly (the ratio is 2.4375 rather than the 2.5).
Ive ran it both ways. Other than the pinion, there isn't any difference.
09-07-2014, 11:34 AM
#715
I think the plastic Tamiya uses for the gears is not right. I have managed to modify the gear diff case to take a Yokomo SD crown wheel and seems to have no issues. The Yokomo gears are a sort of tough nylon different from that of Tamiya's. The reinforced gears are just a bad idea in my opinion. They are too rough and have too much friction. The plastic ones are too hard. They should probably use the same material they use on the bevel gears of their DF03 line of cars, I reckon. Those fell more like the material in the Yokomo gears.
To modify the diff case takes a lot of work and a good lathe, so not for the average modeller, but it can be done. The driving pinion had to be modified a bit as well to change the protrusion (plunge), but that was easy. My SD has run for a long time with these gears and there was never a problem (best sign is how silent, smooth and free the drivetrain is).
Too bad Tamiya seems unwilling to address these issues, the EVO6 could have been a good car. They might have just provided the best opportunity for their competition to come up with a good car in this market segment and Yokomo has the inside lane.
To modify the diff case takes a lot of work and a good lathe, so not for the average modeller, but it can be done. The driving pinion had to be modified a bit as well to change the protrusion (plunge), but that was easy. My SD has run for a long time with these gears and there was never a problem (best sign is how silent, smooth and free the drivetrain is).
Too bad Tamiya seems unwilling to address these issues, the EVO6 could have been a good car. They might have just provided the best opportunity for their competition to come up with a good car in this market segment and Yokomo has the inside lane.
09-07-2014, 01:43 PM
#716
Right, I know that to reduce plunge you add shims to the outside of the shaft, I did that as well. But with 0.3mm of shims (per instructions) under the pinion, I had pretty bad binding in the way you describe (regular irregularities). So that's why I moved the pinion back by removing 0.2mm and leaving only one 0.1mm shim under it. So you're saying I should go back and use what the instructions said (0.3mm under pinion), but then just shim out the plunge? I can certainly do that, it'll just need serious breaking in.
09-07-2014, 02:44 PM
#717
Right,I know that to reduce plunge you add shims to the outside of the shaft, I did that as well. But with 0.3mm of shims (per instructions) under the pinion, I had pretty bad binding in the way you describe (regular irregularities). So that's why I moved the pinion back by removing 0.2mm and leaving only one 0.1mm shim under it. So you're saying I should go back and use what the instructions said (0.3mm under pinion), but then just shim out the plunge? I can certainly do that, it'll just need serious breaking in.
09-07-2014, 10:19 PM
#718
Right, I know that to reduce plunge you add shims to the outside of the shaft, I did that as well. But with 0.3mm of shims (per instructions) under the pinion, I had pretty bad binding in the way you describe (regular irregularities). So that's why I moved the pinion back by removing 0.2mm and leaving only one 0.1mm shim under it. So you're saying I should go back and use what the instructions said (0.3mm under pinion), but then just shim out the plunge? I can certainly do that, it'll just need serious breaking in.