172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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07-14-2013, 07:32 PM
#7577
Linked is the scan of the UMW705, UMW706 and UMW707 instructions. It contains both an eccentrics chart and a reference to the other holders.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B03C...bzA/edit?pli=1
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B03C...bzA/edit?pli=1
07-14-2013, 07:44 PM
#7578
Gotta question, what do the shims that go between the caster block and chasis do? I see that the kit comes with different choices, but don't knowmwhat the effects on handling might be...
Thanks!
Thanks!
07-14-2013, 07:56 PM
#7579
Linked is the scan of the UMW705, UMW706 and UMW707 instructions. It contains both an eccentrics chart and a reference to the other holders.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B03C...bzA/edit?pli=1
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B03C...bzA/edit?pli=1
Also, when should one run toe-in at the hub versus at the arm?
07-14-2013, 08:22 PM
#7580
As for the other question regarding toe-in, when you change it at the arm's inner position you are changing wheelbase and dog bone angle. I tend to agree with Dan Griffin's statement on the matter. http://www.rctech.net/forum/7806219-post4.html
Last edited by jkirkwood; 07-14-2013 at 08:41 PM.
07-14-2013, 08:23 PM
#7581
Oh, and thanks for setting up my RB6. I spent the whole day with it yesterday and it was completely dialed. I didn't even have to switch to my Beams as my ghosted (almost bald) pressure points even provided plenty of traction. I even let Lacey drive it and even he was almost able to keep the thing on the track.
07-14-2013, 08:47 PM
#7582
Yes you will still need bushings. I stayed with the delrin.
As for the other question regarding toe-in, when you change it at the arm's inner position you are changing wheelbase and dog bone angle. I tend to agree with Dan Griffin's statement on the matter. http://www.rctech.net/forum/7806219-post4.html
As for the other question regarding toe-in, when you change it at the arm's inner position you are changing wheelbase and dog bone angle. I tend to agree with Dan Griffin's statement on the matter. http://www.rctech.net/forum/7806219-post4.html
07-14-2013, 09:11 PM
#7583
Yeah, like what do you know about these toy cars?
Oh, and thanks for setting up my RB6. I spent the whole day with it yesterday and it was completely dialed. I didn't even have to switch to my Beams as my ghosted (almost bald) pressure points even provided plenty of traction. I even let Lacey drive it and even he was almost able to keep the thing on the track.
Oh, and thanks for setting up my RB6. I spent the whole day with it yesterday and it was completely dialed. I didn't even have to switch to my Beams as my ghosted (almost bald) pressure points even provided plenty of traction. I even let Lacey drive it and even he was almost able to keep the thing on the track.
07-15-2013, 01:12 AM
#7585
the other issue with changing toe inboard is corner entry isnt consistent do to binding in the output cups.. i used to run the wide rear and narrow front hangers on my rt5 to get more forward bite and the truck would sometimes get sketchy on entry. BUT that is a dramatic amount of toe. As i always say the only way to see how it works for you is to try it out
07-15-2013, 03:12 AM
#7586
Negative...the AE pistons (at least the tapered ones) DO NOT fit perfect. They are not a thick as the Kyosho pistons and need shimming to be right or your going to get an inconsistent feel. Not to mention a clicking sound from them slapping against the e clips inside.
07-15-2013, 06:26 AM
#7588
Linked is the scan of the UMW705, UMW706 and UMW707 instructions. It contains both an eccentrics chart and a reference to the other holders.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B03C...bzA/edit?pli=1
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B03C...bzA/edit?pli=1
07-15-2013, 09:02 AM
#7589
07-15-2013, 09:18 AM
#7590
+1more for the ghea pistons.
I have never had a car/ piston combo with a more perfect fit and finish.
I have never had a car/ piston combo with a more perfect fit and finish.