jeff whiting

iTrader: (9)

We have two of these speed controls I just purchased for our B44's. I am impressed how smooth they are. So smooth in fact I have a question.

Of the 5 presets, which will be the most aggressive? I have tested 1 and 3 and really can't tell much difference. Our off-road track is high bite clay and we we are running 6.5 Novak Ballistic motors. After a run the motors are coming off the track at 125.

I don’t have the USB interface or the software yet but does anyone know what the brake settings are with the standard profiles. I am curious about drag brake in particular.

Thanks

JEFF

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

You don't have to have the interface to see what the profile settings are at, just go to the website and download them and open them up. That part of the software is right off the KO website and your going to need it anyways for when you do get the rest.

jeff whiting

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the info.

Jeff

goop

iTrader: (2)

hey jeff i would try gearing up about 3-4 teeth

jeff whiting

iTrader: (9)

I will give that a try also.Thank you.

Jeff

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Just trying to clean up some wiring and wondering if anyone has or knows what would happen if you rolled the "A" and "C" wires on a motor? Would it spin backwards or not at all? Anyone do it by mistake and what was the outcome? I'd love to get rid of the lump that the crossover makes with the flip of those 2 wires.

Thanks

For those that where curious about this as well, I did some checking with a voltmeter and couldn't see a voltage issue that would cause problems so I tried to switch but I guess there must be sensor wires that would have to be changed as well to fire in the right order, so no such luck in getting rid of the crossover.

DirtyDog3375

iTrader: (37)

Just wondering if the V1 and V1.5 have the same timing when both versions are set to timing value 1 or 2?

Thanks in advance.

Mankalas

Hello,

how do you recognize if it is the version 1.0 or 1.5?

I have the orion version and i bought it in late august

thank you!

changss

Do you still have the original casing? It would have its part number on the label.

If it is ORI65006/ORI65007, then it is V1
If it is ORI65008/ORI65009, then it is V1.5

Canyon

iTrader: (8)

Hacker 13.5 geared at 4.5, timing maxed on motor. Here's my speedo profile. I'm running Model 2. Motor comes off at 160 and is very fast.

redbones

Running 17.5 DUO2 (no timing) and geared at 3.5. Motor is temping at 145 so I guess I can try the 3.2 FDR that someone recommended. My question is, how come I can gear the car with the BMC to ~3.5 when others (Tekin, LRP) are way above 4.0 using the same motors? The speeds are about the same.

Also, how come timing 5 feels faster than 6?

krat

can someone explain to all of us, how does the esc timing work?
is it working at full throttle only?
what is the difference with the motor timing?

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I'll try to explain, although I'm very far from a expert but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

You have to divide your track into 4 sections, and then convert that over to the graph. The start of the graph is the bottom end or the initial punch, the next 2 parts of the graph are the mid section of the track, like the tight sections into and out of the corners and the final part of the graph is the straight or top end, or when you want the boost to kick in. Now the key part is determining how long or how soon you want the events to happen, so the flatter you make the graph in sections is the length of time that that "feel" will happen. You also have to remember that not only the length but where the graph actually is, higher or lower, will also determine the strength of the punch, and since, if you move the AVG bar up or down and don't change the curve, you can make the car feel softer or harder but still drive the same. The trailing end of the graph is where the boost kicks in and to make it come on sooner or later on the straight can be adjusted by the flatter you make the end of the line, so if you want the boost to come on sooner in the straight you would make the last 5 bars all the same freq opposed to if you want the boost on later, you would have the last to bars the same.

I've read this a couple of times and hopes it kind of makes more sense to you as I don't know if it came out in words the way it should.

And if I'm wrong or please feel free to post as I am far from a expert on this item and if I'm missing something I would love to know.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

You are probably over timed when you run on 6 thats why 5 feels faster. You could try to back the mechanical timing of the motor back and advance the SC timing to get the same or better feel. Or if the motor is fixed timing it probably has so much advance build in that, again your over timed.

radio_car_racer

iTrader: (1)

Cheers

I now have a setting to work from from Melvin