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Old 04-26-2013, 06:19 PM
  #1396  
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just so you guys know , when using the tamiya ballcups you have to use the plastic bag trick. pretty much you take one side of the bag the parts were packaged in and you place it over the bsallcup then you snap the ball cup over that and it cuts out a perfect circle out of the bag which takes up the slop yet allows for free movement of the ballcup.
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:11 AM
  #1397  
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I have to state a few things about this kit. I just built an S1 for my daughter's first car and I was pretty happy with the build overall. That the quality of some of the parts is not the best (excepcted for the price). The standard kit hardware had several problems.

- I had a ball stud that wasn't broached and so I wasn't able to use it.
- The top deck required quite a bit of sanding to drop in without preloading the bulkheads (would have caused chassis tweak)
- One of my shock bladders had a pin hole in it (not useable untill I filled hole with CA)
- Ball cups suck! They have a lot of play and they pop off everytime I hook up a turnbuckle wrench.
- One of the optional aluminum hexes I bought did not have a split cut in it to clamp down on the axle.

Other than those few minor things all was very good. I went ahead and picked up sways, aluminum shock bodies, and also the aluminum hexes and turnbuckles.

Cant wait to see how it does !
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Old 04-27-2013, 04:14 PM
  #1398  
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I broke a pivot ball today during practice at Wcrc. Does anyone know if pivot balls from the other manufacturers fit our cars?

Other than that I'm really loving my s1. Im a totally rookie tho... I thought my centering issue was due to steering slop n a bad servo, when it was just bad building/setup on my behalf. As soon as I got my camber set and arms moving freely she goes pretty straight.

S1 = big grin on my face
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Old 04-27-2013, 04:50 PM
  #1399  
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I'm going to switch out all of the pivot balls and rod ends to VBC stuff. It is an improvement over the Spec R pivot balls and rod ends. I think they are 5.7mm, but the real advantage is that when I adjust my suspension the wont pop off like the spec r stuff.
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:31 PM
  #1400  
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bigger pivot balls means bigger plastic parts... Are you sure it won't rub the wheel?
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:12 PM
  #1401  
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They are open on the top. They have almost zero play in them

Last edited by spunkysandoval; 04-30-2013 at 04:37 AM.
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by spunkysandoval
I'm going to switch out all of the pivot balls and rod ends to VBC stuff. It is an improvement over the Spec R pivot balls and rod ends. I think they are 5.7mm, but the real advantage is that when I adjust my suspension the wont pop off like the spec r stuff.
I never have this trouble, I pretap everything, so when i go to put a wrench on the turnbuckles they move smooth as silk. As for slop, i do not know what everyone is whining about, i have less than 1mm movement in the steering left to right and that is with all the stock parts. 1mm movement is hardly a game breaker and not something that anyone is going to notice, especially if you are using a fast servo.
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Old 04-28-2013, 05:37 AM
  #1403  
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With the exception of a big enough pinion and a servo saver, my R1 build is finished, and now I find myself wondering what the contents of this bag is meant for:

Spec-R R1-specr-r1-j.jpg

I guess they go under the suspension mounts to lift them, but why? For adjusting the rollcenter?
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by RogerDaShrubber
I never have this trouble, I pretap everything, so when i go to put a wrench on the turnbuckles they move smooth as silk
Roger, where do you get left hand thread taps to properly pre tap the ball cups that need reverse threads? Thanks!
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:36 AM
  #1405  
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Originally Posted by bakoo
With the exception of a big enough pinion and a servo saver, my R1 build is finished, and now I find myself wondering what the contents of this bag is meant for:

Attachment 1061622

I guess they go under the suspension mounts to lift them, but why? For adjusting the rollcenter?
indeed!
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:22 AM
  #1406  
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Finished building my R1 and have to say I'm very pleased with the performance of the car on the carpet yesterday. I incorporated a few changes during the build which made for a smooth car. Listed below are a few of the changes that came from this thread.
1- tamiya hinge pin balls (more consistent size. Several of the spec r were to tight.
2- flanged bearings on the lay shaft
3- shimmed the steering rack with .1,.2,.3 shims to reduce the slop.

Overall feel of the car was really good and lap times were only 3 tenths off the typical pace. Not to bad for the first run.
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by SS LS1
Roger, where do you get left hand thread taps to properly pre tap the ball cups that need reverse threads? Thanks!
Google is your friend. Search for left hand M3 tap lead to this:

http://www.amazon.com/Metric-Left-Th.../dp/B009MN264Y
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Old 04-29-2013, 03:49 PM
  #1408  
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Originally Posted by AdrianM
Google is your friend. Search for left hand M3 tap lead to this:

http://www.amazon.com/Metric-Left-Th.../dp/B009MN264Y
+1 also try http://www.tap-die.com they have full sets of left hand machine thread taps.
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:21 PM
  #1409  
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Hello

If any body in the market for up graded r1, I'm selling mine. Pm me cheers
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Old 04-30-2013, 05:11 AM
  #1410  
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Originally Posted by bakoo
With the exception of a big enough pinion and a servo saver, my R1 build is finished, and now I find myself wondering what the contents of this bag is meant for:

Attachment 1061622

I guess they go under the suspension mounts to lift them, but why? For adjusting the rollcenter?
pro and anti squat
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