Ninja Engine by GRP
#521
Originally Posted by royfan33
I bought mine from Sam@ Team Kamikaze. He always gives me good service and a fair price.
Team Kamikaze
Team Kamikaze
It seems to me that all .12 ninjas come with the pipe. So how come Winner's Circle are selling the engine a lot cheaper than other retailers..?? Is it possible that they are selling it without the pipe..?? Does Ninja offer such an option..??
#522
Originally Posted by nitro_moe
Thanks for the reply Roy..
It seems to me that all .12 ninjas come with the pipe. So how come Winner's Circle are selling the engine a lot cheaper than other retailers..?? Is it possible that they are selling it without the pipe..?? Does Ninja offer such an option..??
It seems to me that all .12 ninjas come with the pipe. So how come Winner's Circle are selling the engine a lot cheaper than other retailers..?? Is it possible that they are selling it without the pipe..?? Does Ninja offer such an option..??

#523
hi i just bought a ninja .12 on sunday, and i cant get it to fire the glow plug is fine the glow warmer is fine everything is fine. ive been trying for 2 days now to get it to fire it just wont fire. please help me iam at my wits end
#525
Originally Posted by royfan33
I know the engine will be available without the pipe, but it seems the kit is the only one dealers have in stock at the moment. I've seen the engine only for $230 or so. I wanted the pipe, so the kit made sense for me.
?? Please post a link as soon as you can. This is one deal I won't think twice about.
#527
Originally Posted by nitro_moe
Are you serious..$230
?? Please post a link as soon as you can. This is one deal I won't think twice about.
?? Please post a link as soon as you can. This is one deal I won't think twice about.Just an FYI, I ordered my kit on Friday afternoon from Team Kamikaze and it was in my mailbox today when I got home. Thanks Sam
I haven't had a chance to check it out yet, but the extra glowplugs I bought even come in little plastic translucent gray Ninja cases that seal nicely. Also see that there is a CD-rom enclosed that has the owners manual on it in the case. Nice touches on Ninja's part....
#528
Originally Posted by royfan33
I'm sure most dealers the carry the Ninja brand will be in that range for the engine only. Team Kamikaze is one, but they only have the kit in stock now. The only link I can provide is to Nitrohouse ,but it is for preorder only. Good luck
Just an FYI, I ordered my kit on Friday afternoon from Team Kamikaze and it was in my mailbox today when I got home. Thanks Sam
I haven't had a chance to check it out yet, but the extra glowplugs I bought even come in little plastic translucent gray Ninja cases that seal nicely. Also see that there is a CD-rom enclosed that has the owners manual on it in the case. Nice touches on Ninja's part....
Just an FYI, I ordered my kit on Friday afternoon from Team Kamikaze and it was in my mailbox today when I got home. Thanks Sam
I haven't had a chance to check it out yet, but the extra glowplugs I bought even come in little plastic translucent gray Ninja cases that seal nicely. Also see that there is a CD-rom enclosed that has the owners manual on it in the case. Nice touches on Ninja's part....
I'll be contacting them for sure about availability
#529
Originally Posted by Kanea6
hi i just bought a ninja .12 on sunday, and i cant get it to fire the glow plug is fine the glow warmer is fine everything is fine. ive been trying for 2 days now to get it to fire it just wont fire. please help me iam at my wits end 

If on the other hand the plug is dry, check your fuel supply to make sure it is getting past the fuel filter ect and getting to the carb. If it is make sure the fuel is getting past the highspeed needle. You can pull the filter, put your finger over the carb inlet and bump the starter it will choke it and you should see wetness in the carb throat from fuel. If still dry your HS needle is clogged. Been there done that too....if so you can totally pull the needle assembly then unscrew the needle and flush it out, or if you are afraid of creating a leak at the banjo fitting just back out the needle and flush it that way. I just hold the engine upside down to flush it that way.
What ever the case it should fire. I would think getting it to fire even a little lean for break in would be better than turning it over cold for days at a time. I'd also preheat the engine w/a heat gun or hairdryer to relieve some stress beings its giving you fits. Also make sure your needles are at factory recommended settings. Sometimes they make mistakes too...
This is just my personal experience w/nitro. Others should be able to chime in too to get you running. My first nitro was in '93 and it was a Paris Rex 3port, no internet to help me, but Ron Paris guided me on the phone to get it going. I always try to return the favor to anyone having problems, but it is hard to diagnose via the web....Good Luck
#530
Originally Posted by nitro_moe
Thanks for the reply Roy..
It seems to me that all .12 ninjas come with the pipe. So how come Winner's Circle are selling the engine a lot cheaper than other retailers..?? Is it possible that they are selling it without the pipe..?? Does Ninja offer such an option..??
It seems to me that all .12 ninjas come with the pipe. So how come Winner's Circle are selling the engine a lot cheaper than other retailers..?? Is it possible that they are selling it without the pipe..?? Does Ninja offer such an option..??

Yes the ninja comes in two packages that I know of. 1 has the motor and pipe package and 2 only has the engine.
#531
Well I pulled the engine apart last night to peek at the goods, and I'm impressed. If this little mill runs as good as it looks I'll be a happy camper
The crank seems especially nice for the price. Turbo cut w/tungsten weight, instead of putty for the ramp it is machined in. Also the machine work in the crank case seems excellent. Bearings feel very high quality. Unlike alot of engines I see nowadays the the head to button surface is machined instead of having the anodizing or whatever they use to color the head between the head/button. The sleeve doesn't have any crazy porting done, but I doubt it's needed. Overall I give an A+ for initial design and craftsmanship. Have to see how she runs now.
Few pics for those interested......
The crank seems especially nice for the price. Turbo cut w/tungsten weight, instead of putty for the ramp it is machined in. Also the machine work in the crank case seems excellent. Bearings feel very high quality. Unlike alot of engines I see nowadays the the head to button surface is machined instead of having the anodizing or whatever they use to color the head between the head/button. The sleeve doesn't have any crazy porting done, but I doubt it's needed. Overall I give an A+ for initial design and craftsmanship. Have to see how she runs now.
Few pics for those interested......
#533
Originally Posted by Mike_Swauger
1st Tank at idle. Shut it off and let it cool down. Make sure the piston is at the bottom.
2nd tank idle
3rd tank 1/4 throttle
4th tank 1/4 throttle
5th tank 1/2 throttle
6th tank 1/2 throttle
7th tank 1/2 throttle
8th tank full throttle (make sure engine is running rich)
9th tank 1/2 throttle
10th tank 1/4 throttle
Put the engine in the car and run two or three tanks at a rich setting on the track and then it will be o.k to lean it out.
2nd tank idle
3rd tank 1/4 throttle
4th tank 1/4 throttle
5th tank 1/2 throttle
6th tank 1/2 throttle
7th tank 1/2 throttle
8th tank full throttle (make sure engine is running rich)
9th tank 1/2 throttle
10th tank 1/4 throttle
Put the engine in the car and run two or three tanks at a rich setting on the track and then it will be o.k to lean it out.
Mike or anyone else
When following the above is the only time you stop then engine after the first tank or between all of them.
Thanks
#534
Tech Regular
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 336
From: Ewa Beach, Hi
Originally Posted by PROVK
Help Please
Mike or anyone else
When following the above is the only time you stop then engine after the first tank or between all of them.
Thanks
Mike or anyone else
When following the above is the only time you stop then engine after the first tank or between all of them.
Thanks
#535
Originally Posted by Mike_Swauger
Stop the engine only after the first tank.
Just another quick one, you say one tank, is that the hudy tank or the equivelant of Mugen MRX-4Rs tank.
Thanks again
#537
Originally Posted by Mike_Swauger
Stop the engine only after the first tank.
Is there any need to lean/richen the engine to adjust the temp or just run it in with box settings?
#538
Originally Posted by royfan33
Two days?!? Have you pulled the plug after trying to fire for a while? If so is the plug wet or dry? If it is wet, double verify that the element on the plug is glowing, and then maybe lean a little if it still won't fire . I've had engines that were way rich from the factory and they wouldn't fire until toned down a little. Don't go to far though just a little at a time until it fires.
If on the other hand the plug is dry, check your fuel supply to make sure it is getting past the fuel filter ect and getting to the carb. If it is make sure the fuel is getting past the highspeed needle. You can pull the filter, put your finger over the carb inlet and bump the starter it will choke it and you should see wetness in the carb throat from fuel. If still dry your HS needle is clogged. Been there done that too....if so you can totally pull the needle assembly then unscrew the needle and flush it out, or if you are afraid of creating a leak at the banjo fitting just back out the needle and flush it that way. I just hold the engine upside down to flush it that way.
What ever the case it should fire. I would think getting it to fire even a little lean for break in would be better than turning it over cold for days at a time. I'd also preheat the engine w/a heat gun or hairdryer to relieve some stress beings its giving you fits. Also make sure your needles are at factory recommended settings. Sometimes they make mistakes too...
This is just my personal experience w/nitro. Others should be able to chime in too to get you running. My first nitro was in '93 and it was a Paris Rex 3port, no internet to help me, but Ron Paris guided me on the phone to get it going. I always try to return the favor to anyone having problems, but it is hard to diagnose via the web....Good Luck
If on the other hand the plug is dry, check your fuel supply to make sure it is getting past the fuel filter ect and getting to the carb. If it is make sure the fuel is getting past the highspeed needle. You can pull the filter, put your finger over the carb inlet and bump the starter it will choke it and you should see wetness in the carb throat from fuel. If still dry your HS needle is clogged. Been there done that too....if so you can totally pull the needle assembly then unscrew the needle and flush it out, or if you are afraid of creating a leak at the banjo fitting just back out the needle and flush it that way. I just hold the engine upside down to flush it that way.
What ever the case it should fire. I would think getting it to fire even a little lean for break in would be better than turning it over cold for days at a time. I'd also preheat the engine w/a heat gun or hairdryer to relieve some stress beings its giving you fits. Also make sure your needles are at factory recommended settings. Sometimes they make mistakes too...
This is just my personal experience w/nitro. Others should be able to chime in too to get you running. My first nitro was in '93 and it was a Paris Rex 3port, no internet to help me, but Ron Paris guided me on the phone to get it going. I always try to return the favor to anyone having problems, but it is hard to diagnose via the web....Good Luck
#539
Originally Posted by royfan33
Well I pulled the engine apart last night to peek at the goods, and I'm impressed. If this little mill runs as good as it looks I'll be a happy camper
The crank seems especially nice for the price. Turbo cut w/tungsten weight, instead of putty for the ramp it is machined in. Also the machine work in the crank case seems excellent. Bearings feel very high quality. Unlike alot of engines I see nowadays the the head to button surface is machined instead of having the anodizing or whatever they use to color the head between the head/button. The sleeve doesn't have any crazy porting done, but I doubt it's needed. Overall I give an A+ for initial design and craftsmanship. Have to see how she runs now.
Few pics for those interested......
The crank seems especially nice for the price. Turbo cut w/tungsten weight, instead of putty for the ramp it is machined in. Also the machine work in the crank case seems excellent. Bearings feel very high quality. Unlike alot of engines I see nowadays the the head to button surface is machined instead of having the anodizing or whatever they use to color the head between the head/button. The sleeve doesn't have any crazy porting done, but I doubt it's needed. Overall I give an A+ for initial design and craftsmanship. Have to see how she runs now.
Few pics for those interested......
No work at all done to the liner.......
#540
Originally Posted by M7H
Well, don't know what you have seen in this engine what impresses you, but for me it looks just basic and simple....
No work at all done to the liner.......
No work at all done to the liner.......
#541
Originally Posted by MRX4-R03
Man all the post you have posted lately, you have nothing good to say, I don't wanna start drama but people here are just showing what they bought and they are proud of it.
Please read my posts more carefully.....
When somebody posts internal pictures of an in my opinion just average looking engine, should I then go with the hype?....
Do you think the engines internals look impressive then?
#542
Originally Posted by M7H
I have nothing good to say?, ok, but I also don't talk negative... or do I?.....
Please read my posts more carefully.....
When somebody posts internal pictures of an in my opinion just average looking engine, should I then go with the hype?....
Do you think the engines internals look impressive then?
Please read my posts more carefully.....
When somebody posts internal pictures of an in my opinion just average looking engine, should I then go with the hype?....
Do you think the engines internals look impressive then?
#543
Originally Posted by Pooh2
It's not that. U just say negative things about anything that Mugen does. Just b EZ.
please give examples then.....
It's not negative, I never ever flame any brand, I just give my opinion......
I did this in the Orion CRF thread, and up to now nobody proofed the oposite to me.... nor in this thread......
#545
Originally Posted by M7H
I have nothing good to say?, ok, but I also don't talk negative... or do I?.....
Please read my posts more carefully.....
When somebody posts internal pictures of an in my opinion just average looking engine, should I then go with the hype?....
Do you think the engines internals look impressive then?
Please read my posts more carefully.....
When somebody posts internal pictures of an in my opinion just average looking engine, should I then go with the hype?....
Do you think the engines internals look impressive then?
He was reffering to the craftsmanship which seems to be topnotch. You never directly say anything negative but the only time you come to another thread that is not Serpent or Picco Mega related is to nitpick.
Lets go to your post history here on this thread.
First is to try to discredit Mike S. who was trying to help by sharing his break in procedure with people who were asking for his advise. you tried to insinuate that he runs a new engine every race which you really have no Knowledge on.
Then you come back to say a very average engine with no cuts etc, etc.
If you are going to be an A hole at least have the back bone to admit it and stop with all the proof and doing lawyer talk.
I know you are trying to prove your ultimate knowledge but so far you are just proving your self to be a Jack @ss.
I'm done RANTING so I hope this thread gets back on topic which is for questions on the ninja and help for people that actually has the Engine.
#546
I've seen them run, both the stock and tuned version, and they're fast, consistant, and tunable. Not sure what more you need. Was fortunate to see Mike S. and Brian T. put on a show and it was simply AWESOME!
#547
Originally Posted by M7H
I have nothing good to say?, ok, but I also don't talk negative... or do I?.....
Please read my posts more carefully.....
When somebody posts internal pictures of an in my opinion just average looking engine, should I then go with the hype?....
Do you think the engines internals look impressive then?
Please read my posts more carefully.....
When somebody posts internal pictures of an in my opinion just average looking engine, should I then go with the hype?....
Do you think the engines internals look impressive then?
#549
Originally Posted by Seisick
so any feedback comparing the 12 to other brands, the picco JL for instance or mega or os speed tz, i guees new buyers are still runnin in the engines
I don't know how it compares to the three motors but it definitely has power and good mileage.
#554
Tech Addict
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 660
Originally Posted by M7H
Well, don't know what you have seen in this engine what impresses you, but for me it looks just basic and simple....
No work at all done to the liner.......
No work at all done to the liner.......
#556
Originally Posted by Dredd
So? Then wait for a modded version. A Bone Stock motor shouldn't look crazy, not for this price.
I reffered to the post where "royfan33" says he was impressed by the looks of the internals of this engine....
#557
Originally Posted by Francis M.
He was reffering to the craftsmanship which seems to be topnotch.
First is to try to discredit Mike S. who was trying to help by sharing his break in procedure with people who were asking for his advise. you tried to insinuate that he runs a new engine every race which you really have no Knowledge on.
A lot of "engine experts" recommend NOT to break in an engine on idle.....
Ok, Mike is then the ONLY factory driver I know who is not using a new engine or new internals every major race.....
Then you come back to say a very average engine with no cuts etc, etc.
No problem, and I do like it to seen yet another engine on the market which is less expensive, and might run fast to, but does it need to be "overhyped"?
If you are going to be an A hole at least have the back bone to admit it and stop with all the proof and doing lawyer talk.
I know you are trying to prove your ultimate knowledge but so far you are just proving your self to be a Jack @ss.
Last edited by M7H; 03-08-2007 at 02:59 AM.
#558
Originally Posted by Mike_Swauger
You must use a Ninja plug with the engine.
Because the thread is longer/shorter, or the shape (angle) of the plug?.....
Mega has this same "issue" and also Sirio as far as I know....
But are (as far as you know, because you admitted you only know Nova engines) the plugs not at all interchangable between these brands?
#560
Hi Mike,,
It's nice to see you offering your total support for the Ninja engines on this forum. It shows how supportive you pros can be sometimes..
On the other hand, I would like to ask for your opinion on Ninja .21R01A. How would you rate it among the top brands such as Sirio and Novarossi?? I was hoping to find a product review of this engine online or in any magazine but haven't been lucky as of yet. So maybe you could enlighten us with some inside knowledge or tips on this matter..
Thanks again champ and good luck in your future races..
It's nice to see you offering your total support for the Ninja engines on this forum. It shows how supportive you pros can be sometimes..
On the other hand, I would like to ask for your opinion on Ninja .21R01A. How would you rate it among the top brands such as Sirio and Novarossi?? I was hoping to find a product review of this engine online or in any magazine but haven't been lucky as of yet. So maybe you could enlighten us with some inside knowledge or tips on this matter..
Thanks again champ and good luck in your future races..





