Hi all I just got my +8 chassis did you find you had to soften or stiffin the setup after the swap?Any hints before I swap over?still adding weight?I am new to the 4.1 after running a 22.Indoor carpet med bite.First time out with it with the stock chassis, I won the A main against a fleet of 22'sTHANKS

Maybe this isnt something that's been researched, but what is it about the spring that makes it better? If the rates are similar, and they aren't any more or less progressive, then what else can it change? Maybe the larger diameter is just less likely to rub the side of the shock body?

I find that larger dia. springs feel more"plush"or liniear than smaller dia.of the same rate.

I would think you would need to drive the buggy without the chassis. Add the chassis drive it again. than add the springs and drive it again to really see if anything changed.

I know going from stock FT kit front axles. and stock chassis to +8mm chassis and inline axles. the buggy felt 100% better and different.

any thoughts on what people may like to have made from titanium or other metals? i cant do carbon fibre yet but will look into it.

Can you do the usual items (axles, hinge pins, turnbuckles) at a campetitive price? Other items of interest may be a titanium top shaft. For racers who just have to have, you can offer titanium CVA axles as well.

ordinarily I would say you are right but to be honest, the main reason I am just slapping the +8 on right away is that is what everyone is using so if I have a setup question, I can at least be comparing apples to apples. If this was 6 or 8 years ago when I was running a B3 or XXX, then I wouldn't bother because I have an idea how to adjust the car and get it in the ball park. But a 6 year layoff from racing (and about 8 years since racing offroad), I am relearning. I mean back when I was racing we ran Trinity D3 motors and MVP's for stock LOL. That's kinda why I was asking about the springs. I hadn't even thought about running Non AE springs until I saw the +8 setups listing Kyosho Oranges. To a guy like me, or the average racer, are we really going to feel the difference between a 2.78 spring and a 2.8 spring? LOL


Anyway, thanks for the feedback. If they have them in stock at the track when I finally get back out there, I'll prolly snag a set to throw in the box.

Front hingepin brace, maybe shock standoffs.

So in order to run the TLR springs I will need the lower RPM shock cup?

Also which springs do you recommend for front and rear?

Wild Cherry, what front and rear losi springs compare to the AE brown front and green rear? also, would i be correct saying that there is no more spring rub with the big bore springs!! lol

need some help. building my ft b4.1 and trying to use the hexes both front and rear. using the DE front wheels for the rb5 and my nut driver won't fit. has anyone encountered this problem? and if so, what wheel nuts did you use to fix it. any info would be greatly appreciated. thanks.

so cool

thanks for all the tips wild my car should be fast, tmrw i will be picking up

8mm kit

carbon parts!

new hingies, hubs the gold studs

body sent to painter

I will update every body about my lap times, i will compare last week with stock chassis and this friday with 8mm.=] stock was already very consistant.

I had the same issue, even the Ae nut driver wouldn't quite cut it. I ended up taking a Dynamite nut driver and grinding the OD down a little bit to get it to fit better.

I can Say Mike and lukes car look very good with the losi springs.

RPM spring collar #70327

TLR Ft 12m spring , silver #5174

TLR Rear 12m spring , pink #5168

TLR Rear 12m spring , yellow #5167

TLR 12m spring cups #5095




yellow rear if you need more traction

















Here Ya Go on the TLR SPRINGS AND WHAT YOU NEED TO MOUNT THEM !