You gotta shim the rear diff gear kinda tight and as it breaks in it will be perfect. I run this car too, If i had your car in front of me we could get it sorted i bet !!!

Tight as in crunchy or tight as in nice and smooth ??

5 shims on the gear side, 3 on the other works (2 right behind the pinion) well for me. Also, the try to find some of the older car's white slipper pads, they slip a little more, than the current car's yellow pads, and have a broader range of slip adjustment.

My b44.1 was crunchy as hell... until I found out that I had not assembled the diffs properly (amazing beginners' mistake) and now it's as smooth as a baby's arse

I raced it again saturday in a very demanding track (indoor non permanent track, polished wood equivalent + hard jumps) and the diffs held just fine with a 7.5BL. I could tell you how many shims I have on each side of the diff, but then again different batch of plastic parts will require different shimming I'd think.

Paul

You might check the gear box housing itself. There's a post in this tread IIRC about a problem with a cracked gearbox causing excessive wear on the gears. I don't remember exactly, but replacing the actual housing solved the problem. Also, I used more diff lube on the gears than what is stated in the manual and to date, I have yet to replace any gears (bought the car in July).

If AE offered steel gears, even at $30-40 per gear box, I'd be all over it.

When I rebuilt mine (after destroying the gears in both diffs), I got a shim kit for each, new diff cases (they're really cheap and seem to get beat to death in normal use), the diff rebuild kit, diff nut/screw kit, and fresh gears. I shimmed them so they had no slop but didn't bind (rotated smoothly with some drag) and after breaking them in they haven't chewed up any more gears (and run perfectly smooth). The shim information in the instructions is definitely not always correct, and it seems the cases and/or diff parts can vary a couple shims on a given side. One of my diffs only needed one on the side that calls for two and three on the other side, while the other needed an extra shim on one side and two on the other... You just need to play with it until the gear meshing is perfect and it feels good.

I also slapped some lube in both of them to reduce the noise and wear in hopes of not needing to rebuild them as often.

Edit: Another thing to remember is that you should always err on the loose side with your slipper. If it's too tight, it'll destroy your diffs really fast.

Hey guys, did anyone find a gearing chart for there b44.1? I am running on a medium size track outdoor, with medium grip. I am running an LRP Sxx V2 Spec at the moment. Got an R10 pro esc being shipped to me. Its currently running a 8.5t x12 vector. Any suggestions on a starting point? Stock Spur.

Currently running the same setup as you. 20/81 and the X12 gets pretty hot...however....I've been told X12s run hot so no worries. I started at 18/81 and top end was only ok. Worked up to 21 and didn't seem to be gaining anything other than extra heat so I backed it off one and it runs stupid fast and the heat is right at the limit. With the 8.5 you won't need to run the fan on the R10 but that big block of aluminum will get warm. I run the fan on mine all the time 'just because' and even after a full practice pack the esc comes off the track cool.

Thanks for the tips. I am excited to run it tomorrow. Finally got all the things I need. I am running an LRP ESC temporarily till my Orion comes in. I'm nervous about my diffs now from reading the threads.

My asso from Finland

I think plastic is better for 1/10th i think. The steel is heavy. They are cheap enough and should be changed with a diff rebuild.

Hi guys, Racing a b44.1 next year on a $1000 dollar budget. I used to race nitro 1:8 scale so I already have dx3r, swallow eq, brushless servos. Can pick B44.1 up for $400 whic leaves $600 for Lipo, Motor, Esc, Paint & Decals, Spare tyres. I reakon my budget for the Esc is around $200, motor $100. Can I get some tried and tested recomendations for this budget. Some choices i've seen are; LRP SXX TC Spec ESC for $219, Hobbywing XERUN-120A-1S-SD (V2.1) Brushless ESC $189 + Advanced Professional LCD Program Box $ 39 total $ 228, LRP Vector X11 4.5T Brushless Motor $89
Please I'm new to electric racing so I'm fumbling for some solid advice.

LRP all the way if I had to choose between those two, a 4.5 turn motor seems like alot, IMO, a 6.5 or 7.5 would be stupid fast, I run a novak 6.5 light with a lrp sxx tc spec and it's realy fast, I think a 4.5 is more of an on road motor, I've don't think I've heard of anyone running a 4.5 in off road, these are the battery's I'm running http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-25c-4800-2s3p-saddle.html they fit perfect, hope that helps.

Seems to be working pretty well for Durango. I would easily substitute a little weight (you could run the steel gears instead of the extra ballast?) for a ton of robustness. One less thing to worry about....especially in the rear.

Thanks for the heads up. Is that esc programable from a pc and if so do I require to buy a program card or such.