5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
11-21-2011 | 05:09 PM
11-21-2011 | 05:39 PM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 8,692
I run saddles, in the original setup, thats just cuz i own the best 4x4 buggy ever.(B44) poor Kitty.
Mayfield and Cavaliri(sp?) have a new setup sheet on RC10.com. They are running thhe saddle pack setup with the Fastlaps Chassis brace. Allso a prototype slipper setup. This is the setup they used for the Reedy truck race.
Mayfield and Cavaliri(sp?) have a new setup sheet on RC10.com. They are running thhe saddle pack setup with the Fastlaps Chassis brace. Allso a prototype slipper setup. This is the setup they used for the Reedy truck race.
11-21-2011 | 06:12 PM
I had the same problem. My solution: turn the diff housing so that gravity will pull the gear off and let it sit overnight. That way, you aren't going to damage anything by tapping, wedging, prying, banging, screwing, etc. Then for the sun gear that was on the side that comes off, assemble the diff halves with no other gears inside, then stand the diff up so that gravity will help you again.
11-21-2011 | 06:52 PM
I run saddles, in the original setup, thats just cuz i own the best 4x4 buggy ever.(B44) poor Kitty.
Mayfield and Cavaliri(sp?) have a new setup sheet on RC10.com. They are running thhe saddle pack setup with the Fastlaps Chassis brace. Allso a prototype slipper setup. This is the setup they used for the Reedy truck race.
Mayfield and Cavaliri(sp?) have a new setup sheet on RC10.com. They are running thhe saddle pack setup with the Fastlaps Chassis brace. Allso a prototype slipper setup. This is the setup they used for the Reedy truck race.
For instance: T-bird sent me a setup. I fucking hated it. (sorry t-dawg!) But! I used his 'theory' in his setup and dialed my truck in for that track. I was amazed because I hadn't thought of it from that angle with all the standards around this class.
You have to drive for you. and peek at a setup or two for a suggestion. Both of them running Saddles did 'not' win this race.
i beg to differ on this, the front and rear of the chassis still flex albeit not very much but enough. i have had nothing but good results with the Exo chassis. have not tweaked anything, broke anything or seen anything that would lead me to believe it is causing any issues. the lack of flex and bottom weight of the Exo chassis makes up for ANY other issues that may or may not be there. dont forget that the arms also have flex. Your reason of flex on a hard impact kinda doesnt make sense because you will hit a flexing part before it goes to the chassis so really it doesnt matter.
I am not associated with Exotech in any way, i just know that the chassis is superior.
I am not associated with Exotech in any way, i just know that the chassis is superior.
I do not believe for a second. That a 110.00 part is superior to a 15 dollar chassis brace and 3.00 in Lead. I'm sorry. Not happening. The only thing it has is looks. The pockets on the stock chassis if you look are Direct in line with the Lowest LCG point on this rig. Adding weight there is on par or so ridiculously close with that 'over 100 dollar' option... Take that 90 bucks and buy yourself some FT Shocks and/or some STRC Alum.
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The Exotech chassis is a great 'bolt on' handling upgrade. It can be done other ways and perform just as miraculously.
Last edited by CoyoteSlash; 11-21-2011 at 07:08 PM.
11-21-2011 | 06:53 PM
get the these slipper disks http://rcshox.com/shoxshop/catalog/p...products_id=48 , they will last forever, and grip much better!
11-21-2011 | 06:53 PM
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 111
From: WCRC
I usually use a couple of tooth pics and use them like chopsticks, working both sides. They are wood so they should not hurt your gear. A little motor spray would also work if you need to get the diff fluid out to release the gear(you will need to replace the o-rings though if you use the motor spray). Just be careful to protect your eyes, the spray tends to splash back from the diff case.
11-21-2011 | 07:09 PM
[QUOTE=CoyoteSlash;9941995]I don't believe for a minute what won a race from a professional driver is going to make me win. Sorry it just doesn't work like that in my opinion.
I agree. Those guys could run New Bright and win. I didnt do the conversion, nor do i plan on it. I just use saddle packs because i own a car that uses them. The chassis brace i might use. But then again, no flex? Something's got to give somewhere.
I agree. Those guys could run New Bright and win. I didnt do the conversion, nor do i plan on it. I just use saddle packs because i own a car that uses them. The chassis brace i might use. But then again, no flex? Something's got to give somewhere.
11-21-2011 | 07:12 PM
[QUOTE=MatSC8Lardi;9942081]
I suggest and so will everyone else, using a brace. The problem is "too much". You actually will pop the belt off the pulleys or twist the belt. I make them because they are such a good idea and some guy was charging way too much. I hate buying belts and so did everyone else. Rolling belts suuuuuuuuuuuucks.
For anyone that has saddles already, my argument is void. I'm only stating purchasing saddles specifically for this truck's purpose.
I don't believe for a minute what won a race from a professional driver is going to make me win. Sorry it just doesn't work like that in my opinion.
I agree. Those guys could run New Bright and win. I didnt do the conversion, nor do i plan on it. I just use saddle packs because i own a car that uses them. The chassis brace i might use. But then again, no flex? Something's got to give somewhere.
I agree. Those guys could run New Bright and win. I didnt do the conversion, nor do i plan on it. I just use saddle packs because i own a car that uses them. The chassis brace i might use. But then again, no flex? Something's got to give somewhere.
For anyone that has saddles already, my argument is void. I'm only stating purchasing saddles specifically for this truck's purpose.
11-21-2011 | 07:15 PM
get a pick or a skinny screwdriver to lift that sungear up. its prob just a lil stuck on that pin, you won't break nothing. maybe tap it on it hard from the other side.
rebuilding my rear diff was one of the best things I did. make sure to add a extra shim . I put 5000 wt in mine, it helps keep it straight under acceleration yet allows the rear end to swing around nicely on a hard turn.
My thoughts on the Exotek chassis are its more than a shiny piece of bling. The weight is evenly distributed right in the center which puts right where you need it.
I'm looking to get this real soon and cannot wait.
rebuilding my rear diff was one of the best things I did. make sure to add a extra shim . I put 5000 wt in mine, it helps keep it straight under acceleration yet allows the rear end to swing around nicely on a hard turn.
My thoughts on the Exotek chassis are its more than a shiny piece of bling. The weight is evenly distributed right in the center which puts right where you need it.
I'm looking to get this real soon and cannot wait.
11-21-2011 | 07:36 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (106)
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,223
my sc104x4 has a clicking, grinding noise coming from it when I get on power coming out of a corner.......both tensioners are all the way tight front and rear, no stripped teeth on anything, and slipper is about 2 turns from completely tight
any suggestions? anything else I should check? Im thinking maybe its the slipper clutch assembly
any suggestions? anything else I should check? Im thinking maybe its the slipper clutch assembly
11-21-2011 | 07:47 PM
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I guess people just aren't understanding what I am saying or thinking i'm attacking 'you' as a person for buying it, which is just false. So this will be the last time I talk about that Chassis. rejoice.