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Old 11-17-2011 | 09:47 AM
  #4576  
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Originally Posted by zi032
How far away is everyones drive belt to their battery. I feel like mines going to rub. There is mayybe a .5 mm gap. Is this normal? I feel like somethings not right. The battery brace lines up almost perfectly with the belt. My battery is 46.5 mm wide which is pretty average comparing size of many hardshell 2s lipo.
You should shim out the center battery brace (by the belt). Try a pieces of servo tape and leave the backing on the side facing the battery. You may have to dremel the battery braces (L shaped ones) to accomodate the difference. I glued a piece of carbon fiber to mine and dremeled it down which also worked..

Reflex Racing will be releasing the ultimate "fix" soon...

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Old 11-17-2011 | 09:55 AM
  #4577  
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Originally Posted by zi032
How far away is everyones drive belt to their battery. I feel like mines going to rub. There is mayybe a .5 mm gap. Is this normal? I feel like somethings not right. The battery brace lines up almost perfectly with the belt. My battery is 46.5 mm wide which is pretty average comparing size of many hardshell 2s lipo. Still waiting on screws that were missing in my kit...
mine has about a 3mm gap
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Old 11-17-2011 | 10:00 AM
  #4578  
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Originally Posted by zi032
How far away is everyones drive belt to their battery. I feel like mines going to rub. There is mayybe a .5 mm gap. Is this normal? I feel like somethings not right. The battery brace lines up almost perfectly with the belt. My battery is 46.5 mm wide which is pretty average comparing size of many hardshell 2s lipo. Still waiting on screws that were missing in my kit...
I just used another center battery stop from ASC31318, placing one forward and one rearward instead of only one in the center. $5 solution to a percieved problem.
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Old 11-17-2011 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Buckaroo
I just used another center battery stop from ASC31318, placing one forward and one rearward instead of only one in the center. $5 solution to a percieved problem.
i was thinking about doing this... i have an extra battery stop. i'll just have to gather up some screws.
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Old 11-17-2011 | 10:17 AM
  #4580  
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Originally Posted by sczrface85
ok my next question which one do you think is the best kit out the tc6 xray top or serpant
The TC6 is as capable as any of the kits mentioned. The questions you should ask yourself is, what car fits your budget taking into account replacement parts costs and availability. Do you have resources in your area for set up tips relative to the track you race on. These are all quality kits but the TC6 cost less and works well.
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Old 11-17-2011 | 10:20 AM
  #4581  
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Originally Posted by YoDog
The TC6 is as capable as any of the kits mentioned. The questions you should ask yourself is, what car fits your budget taking into account replacement parts costs and availability. Do you have resources in your area for set up tips relative to the track you race on. These are all quality kits but the TC6 cost less and works well.
good point I have came to notice the Group of people that have the same car are the people who run the fastest. Not the Person who has a car nobody else has.
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Old 11-17-2011 | 10:34 AM
  #4582  
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Originally Posted by Buckaroo
I just used another center battery stop from ASC31318, placing one forward and one rearward instead of only one in the center. $5 solution to a percieved problem.
did the same thing. works great.
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Old 11-17-2011 | 10:37 AM
  #4583  
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Originally Posted by Odin544
did the same thing. works great.
+1 here...

Actually the kit should come with 2 stops. How much more would it cost?
I makes sense don't you think?
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Old 11-17-2011 | 10:40 AM
  #4584  
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Originally Posted by YoDog
+1 here...

Actually the kit should come with 2 stops. How much more would it cost?
I makes sense don't you think?
I just put some weights in the middle and they keep battery i one position. But yes, AE should do another stop.
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Old 11-17-2011 | 11:23 AM
  #4585  
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Originally Posted by roger999
I just put some weights in the middle and they keep battery i one position. But yes, AE should do another stop.

Thats exactly what i do, i run the weights right down the middle and the car is balanced.
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Old 11-17-2011 | 01:49 PM
  #4586  
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How can you run the weights in the middle and be balanced? lipo is way lighter then the rest of the side usually... I just got my TC6... havent gotten to that part yet.

Jeff. Got a latest setup for a Med to low bite track?
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Old 11-17-2011 | 01:58 PM
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Also... I am having a struggle... What Spur do I run where I can get the dam wrench through to the rear motor mount... I want to be at 100 spur or less. Dont want to have to get another range of pinions to run a higher spur.
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Old 11-17-2011 | 02:14 PM
  #4588  
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I always run a 96 spur. I agree that it shouldn't be balanced but its pretty close to being perfect using fishing string method.
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Old 11-17-2011 | 02:32 PM
  #4589  
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Originally Posted by BSchorr
How can you run the weights in the middle and be balanced? lipo is way lighter then the rest of the side usually... I just got my TC6... havent gotten to that part yet.

Jeff. Got a latest setup for a Med to low bite track?
The electronics are pretty close to the center of the car, it is much more balanced than say the tc5 was. With a low profile servo, micro rx and the transponder on the bumper (instead of on the servo), I actually come in a couple grams light on the electronics side.

Originally Posted by BSchorr
Also... I am having a struggle... What Spur do I run where I can get the dam wrench through to the rear motor mount... I want to be at 100 spur or less. Dont want to have to get another range of pinions to run a higher spur.
+1 for a 96 for blinky. Use the other motor mount hole on the bottom of the mount, then you don't have to worry about reaching thru the spur
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Old 11-17-2011 | 02:42 PM
  #4590  
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it is alway possible to drill one hole in the spur to have a wrench and screw going through
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