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Old 11-16-2011 | 11:27 PM
  #11071  
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we'll look's like i've finally joined the club, my 4x4's in the mail

i've searched and could'nt find much, what's everyone running for gearing ratio's with the castle 3800 4 pole?
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Old 11-16-2011 | 11:29 PM
  #11072  
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Originally Posted by noproblems209
we'll look's like i've finally joined the club, my 4x4's in the mail

i've searched and could'nt find much, what's everyone running for gearing ratio's with the castle 3800 4 pole?
Start with 14/62 and go from there. 32p obviously.
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Old 11-16-2011 | 11:58 PM
  #11073  
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Originally Posted by noproblems209
we'll look's like i've finally joined the club, my 4x4's in the mail

i've searched and could'nt find much, what's everyone running for gearing ratio's with the castle 3800 4 pole?
Couldn't find much? There's only; easily 50 posts talking gearing about that exact motor.

I tease. But! Welcome to AE 4x4! Please. Read. the Thread. I understand it's 700 pages. Use the Thread Search and type in your general topic in question. And You will have doooooooooooozens of people talking about it. We Guarantee it! You will know this truck inside and out.
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Old 11-17-2011 | 12:03 AM
  #11074  
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Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
Steve Pond is ROAR Pres now? Son of a...when did that happen?
Not a clue! I didn't know the guy before, or Steve. Don't really care honestly. ROAR is like ... Rulie...
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Old 11-17-2011 | 12:36 AM
  #11075  
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
Couldn't find much? There's only; easily 50 posts talking gearing about that exact motor.

I tease. But! Welcome to AE 4x4! Please. Read. the Thread. I understand it's 700 pages. Use the Thread Search and type in your general topic in question. And You will have doooooooooooozens of people talking about it. We Guarantee it! You will know this truck inside and out.
i full intention's on reading the whole thing you guy's have spent month's trying to work on this truck and get it to work!

just needed an answer quickly and couldn't find it easily through the search without getting my wader's out and going fishing!
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Old 11-17-2011 | 12:52 AM
  #11076  
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after building and using the chassis brace that bolts into the bulk heads, i decided i didnt like it, there was still to much flexing for me . So i made this one that connected the front and rear diff. And now no flexing of the drive line. The hardest thing, if you could even consider it hard was finding 50mm threads and cutting it to fit. that part took the longest .... start to finish 5min. ive been running it for a little while now and still , no flexing, i think its a great mod for anyone not using the exotek chassis , and honestly i think i am going to make one and carry it over to my race truck using the exotek...here are a few pics

all this from a hotel room!
Attached Thumbnails SC10 4x4 Thread-top-view-brace.jpg   SC10 4x4 Thread-side-view-brace.jpg   SC10 4x4 Thread-brace1.jpg   SC10 4x4 Thread-brace2.jpg  

Last edited by khshapiro; 11-17-2011 at 01:05 AM.
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Old 11-17-2011 | 02:03 AM
  #11077  
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
Yes. I did use the included wrench but the shock came put together. I only took them apart after they first leaked (when they were first installed).
Maybe try some teflon tape? I can't thing of anything else if they came assembled prior. My stock shocks were assembled prior but no issues with them. I bought the ft shock for dirt cheap from my LHS and put them together and didn't use the wrenches that came with the truck and cross threaded them and they leaked. good luck.
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Old 11-17-2011 | 02:26 AM
  #11078  
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Originally Posted by khshapiro
after building and using the chassis brace that bolts into the bulk heads, i decided i didnt like it, there was still to much flexing for me . So i made this one that connected the front and rear diff. And now no flexing of the drive line. The hardest thing, if you could even consider it hard was finding 50mm threads and cutting it to fit. that part took the longest .... start to finish 5min. ive been running it for a little while now and still , no flexing, i think its a great mod for anyone not using the exotek chassis , and honestly i think i am going to make one and carry it over to my race truck using the exotek...here are a few pics

all this from a hotel room!
Not to be rude or anything, but that is way overkill. The standard hole above motor/replace front underbodymount - I have tried, tested, bashed, and literally put the truck on the ground with no bumpers, and stood it on end, then began to lean my body into the truck. Only after I was almost entirely being held up by my truck did the brace crack the Carbon rod.

My chassis Brace All the while, No flex.
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Old 11-17-2011 | 03:22 AM
  #11079  
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Originally Posted by TimMo846
Maybe try some teflon tape? I can't thing of anything else if they came assembled prior. My stock shocks were assembled prior but no issues with them. I bought the ft shock for dirt cheap from my LHS and put them together and didn't use the wrenches that came with the truck and cross threaded them and they leaked. good luck.
Ill try that.
Thanks!
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Old 11-17-2011 | 04:40 AM
  #11080  
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Originally Posted by khshapiro
after building and using the chassis brace that bolts into the bulk heads, i decided i didnt like it, there was still to much flexing for me . So i made this one that connected the front and rear diff. And now no flexing of the drive line. The hardest thing, if you could even consider it hard was finding 50mm threads and cutting it to fit. that part took the longest .... start to finish 5min. ive been running it for a little while now and still , no flexing, i think its a great mod for anyone not using the exotek chassis , and honestly i think i am going to make one and carry it over to my race truck using the exotek...here are a few pics

all this from a hotel room!
That's a sweet setup, what's the total capcity? 10,000mah?

How did you mount the esc? Did you make a platform for it to sit on?
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Old 11-17-2011 | 05:30 AM
  #11081  
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Originally Posted by JS
Thanks for the measurement Blue
It should work as an additional shim on each side.
Inside meaning - Sungear side or diff housing side?
I was thinking SunGear side, as all the pressure is coming from the pin, and if the pin is still fully supported, then it doesn't matter how much bigger THAT shim is, and on the diff housing side, the larger shim would mean that there should be less opportunity for wobble...

Here is an EXTREMELY crude drawing of what I mean:

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Old 11-17-2011 | 05:33 AM
  #11082  
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
Not a clue! I didn't know the guy before, or Steve. Don't really care honestly. ROAR is like ... Rulie...
About a year ago...I remember seeing a note when I was first trying to figure out what to get so that I could make my SC104x4 legal after the SC104x4 was announced, but before they were available...and then I found out RCPS runs 4x4 as an open class and bought everything that I wanted to buy in the first place. (Drift assist gyro included....but not used for racing...just practice so that I could see how the truck SHOULD slide around the corners....)
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Old 11-17-2011 | 05:39 AM
  #11083  
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Originally Posted by tonnyhoward
I have a question ...
I am new in SC10 4x4 .. and I am having problems at the time the car landed is always tilted to the right, what causes it? for hard shock was all the same I check the front and rear. For the same shock I put 35wt oil. I also tried a battery that is lighter but still no change. Can it be caused by unbalanced weight between the right and left?
I would check to see if any of your piston screws have come undone. In the beginning, this was a big problem...if one shock has only the spring for resistance, that will launch your truck at funny angles.
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Old 11-17-2011 | 05:45 AM
  #11084  
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Originally Posted by tonnyhoward
I have a question ...
I am new in SC10 4x4 .. and I am having problems at the time the car landed is always tilted to the right, what causes it? for hard shock was all the same I check the front and rear. For the same shock I put 35wt oil. I also tried a battery that is lighter but still no change. Can it be caused by unbalanced weight between the right and left?
It sound to me that your car is not balalnced. A quick easy way to test this is to tie strings to the overtray body mounts. If it is unbalanced from left to right, you will know right away. The prefered method is to use scales though, but this should at least let you know whats up. What motor and battery are you using? the truck seems to balance out better with a 550 IMO. I am using the tekin pro 4 and had to add several ounces to the left side to get it close to balanced.
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Old 11-17-2011 | 05:58 AM
  #11085  
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Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy
I was thinking SunGear side, as all the pressure is coming from the pin, and if the pin is still fully supported, then it doesn't matter how much bigger THAT shim is, and on the diff housing side, the larger shim would mean that there should be less opportunity for wobble...

Here is an EXTREMELY crude drawing of what I mean:

Very cool - thanks
Sungear side it is. I remember noticing the dent the pin made on the existing washer.
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