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Old 11-14-2011 | 07:57 PM
  #10906  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
I know i'll have to rip my truck apart to verify but I wanted to ask this question.

for those with idler gear problems, does it sound like a grinding sound?? like teeth slipping?

wish I could work on my heap at work.
That's the diffs most likely. Shimming them with spacers and whatnot. Read the last 20 pages of this thread. It was discussed in length.

The idlers will explode in one great Cracking noise and your car will lock up.
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Old 11-14-2011 | 08:05 PM
  #10907  
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[QUOTE=MantisWorx;9910932]Vega, i am sworn to secrecy on that answer


Oh yeah, I forgot...
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Old 11-14-2011 | 08:07 PM
  #10908  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
I know i'll have to rip my truck apart to verify but I wanted to ask this question.

for those with idler gear problems, does it sound like a grinding sound?? like teeth slipping?

wish I could work on my heap at work.
My idler sounded like a worn/bad spur and pinion combo. I replaced it before it completely failed.
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Old 11-14-2011 | 08:09 PM
  #10909  
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Damn Marcus, you truck looked dialed. The way it pulled through the turs on power is crazy. Your gonna be testing at Mikes on friday? I cant wait to run a couple laps on your ride, and hopefully by then you will have an ackerman ready to sell to me
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Old 11-14-2011 | 08:18 PM
  #10910  
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
Damn Marcus, you truck looked dialed. The way it pulled through the turs on power is crazy. Your gonna be testing at Mikes on friday? I cant wait to run a couple laps on your ride, and hopefully by then you will have an ackerman ready to sell to me
if they are racing i will be there if not i will be at katy. all of the hardware came today so the ACKbars will begin shipping on friday! will post some pix tomorrow sometime.
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Old 11-14-2011 | 08:19 PM
  #10911  
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Marcus when will you ackbars be available ? Question answered never mind .
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Old 11-14-2011 | 08:26 PM
  #10912  
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
no, its the same setup i normally run except the ackerman setting were all the way back, that is not going to make up nearly a second in time. the truck feels much more planted and stable most noticeabley under exit acceleration and post jump. corner speed is greatly increased due to the CG in my opinion. no i dont think the chassis is 100% effective but at least 90% in my case. none of the other changes will give that big of a time difference. i had to raise the ride height up slightly due to the weight but i made no other setup changes to compensate for the chassis, just to see what it would be like. i usually run yellow springs but changed saturday (why i dont know!) the ACKbar makes a driving difference but a tenth or two at the most as it makes it more comfy to push hard. I have a lot of wheel time and am pretty good at being able to tell what changes effect the truck.
Thank you Marcus, I appreciate the feedback. I will get it saddled up.

Keith.
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Old 11-14-2011 | 09:07 PM
  #10913  
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Originally Posted by Vegatron75
My idler sounded like a worn/bad spur and pinion combo. I replaced it before it completely failed.
that's what mine kinda sounds like.

Guess I should take it apart before asking more questions.

Where do you get the shims in case it is the diff?

Chris Jaroz suggested I get the diff rebuild kit.
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Old 11-14-2011 | 09:10 PM
  #10914  
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Originally Posted by Vegatron75
My idler sounded like a worn/bad spur and pinion combo. I replaced it before it completely failed.
Yep, same here. I just confirmed it, lost 3 1/2 teeth from the idler gear (rear) after only 2 race days with the slipper pinned on high traction indoor clay. Truck still ran to the finish
(60') but sounded like Veggie's truck. But damn did it have some instant acceleration until the gear broke.

Came out of a tight corner outside a Losi, clamped the throttle only 1-2' before a small 1' bump and jumped clean over his truck. Looked like a game of leap frog and brought cheers from the spectators. Then 3 min later the idler great went boom!

Amazingly the diff gear looks perfect, but the remaining idler gear teeth look oddly twisted or wavey across the width of the teeth. Might have something to with how the idler gear injection mold is cooled creating stress within the gear.

The slipper is now unpinned and back to decoupled.
Attached Thumbnails SC10 4x4 Thread-img_20111114_222646.jpg   SC10 4x4 Thread-img_20111114_222814.jpg  
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Old 11-14-2011 | 09:17 PM
  #10915  
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Does Robinson Racing make a metal idler gear? seems like pinning has its advantages and disadvantages..
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Old 11-14-2011 | 09:43 PM
  #10916  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
that's what mine kinda sounds like.

Guess I should take it apart before asking more questions.

Where do you get the shims in case it is the diff?

Chris Jaroz suggested I get the diff rebuild kit.
Traxxas Wheel Shims.

I redid both of my Diffs. Full rebuild, and still shimmed them. It totally takes the slop out. (be aware, keep the diff free spinning with a shim, can sometimes be 'too' snug)
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Old 11-14-2011 | 09:46 PM
  #10917  
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Originally Posted by SS LS1
The slipper is now unpinned and back to decoupled.
Don't let a plastic Idler gear steer you away from that mod. Trucks that run similar to a pinned design are full steel transmissions. AE got away with Plastic because there was a gearbox per-two tires.

I love. LOVE my pinned Truck for the track I run at, and I've gone threw 2.5 idlers. (my 5minute rear diff pull helps me not get pissed off when I have to get to the idler. )
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Old 11-14-2011 | 10:06 PM
  #10918  
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Use the steel gears and just strip the diff gear, pulley's , belt, ect...


Already been there, done that, and went back .......
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Old 11-14-2011 | 10:09 PM
  #10919  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Use the steel gears and just strip the diff gear or belt...


Already been there, done that, and went back .......
The transmission doesn't skip for 'any' reason. You'd want to replace the Diff itself with steel as well. The belt is not even in this equation, Your belt problem was a different 'issue'. The only way your belt could suffer from a steel idler gear is you had the belt far too tight and that was a mistake in the first place.

Thus, instead of the idler going as usual, saving the tightly wound Belt.
Your Idler didn't give and the belt could not 'skip' and belt boom.
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Old 11-14-2011 | 10:12 PM
  #10920  
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Originally Posted by Chad Smith
Ok thanks. If I cant fiquire it out I will post pics later today. I think my bladders are not in the best of shape either which is probably causing my promblem. Also the stock bladders are way to hard in my opinion, so maybe if they got bent up they didnt go back to the shape they where in when they where new. Since they are this hard it might cause the bladder to not sit properly in the shock.
Get a new set of bladders... I got some new ones (standard AE) and they were much softer than the stock ones.

Originally Posted by cjtamu
Anyone using an Integy universal setup station? Trying to figure out which adapters I need for the SC10 4x4.
Type G
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