SC10 4x4 Thread
THA VID!!!
setup:
Front
RCshox 1.1/1.2 25wt
zero rebound, bladders with screw removed
2.5mm travel limiters inside shocks
5mm RC shims
1* camber
-1* toe in
7k dif fluid
RCshox ACKbar -4 position
24mm ride height
yellow springs
yellow sway bar
REAR
RCshox 1.1/1.2 20wt
zero rebound, bladders with the screw removed
0 rc shims
1.5* camber
3-2 block
5k kyosho dif grease
24mm ride height
blue springs
blue sway bars
Holeshot 2.0
hazzard wheels
pro4 4000kv 14/60 10* boost
hobbywing 120
RPM arms
STRC tensioner pullies
original idler gear!!!
http://www.youtube.com/user/Mantisworx?feature=mhee
setup:
Front
RCshox 1.1/1.2 25wt
zero rebound, bladders with screw removed
2.5mm travel limiters inside shocks
5mm RC shims
1* camber
-1* toe in
7k dif fluid
RCshox ACKbar -4 position
24mm ride height
yellow springs
yellow sway bar
REAR
RCshox 1.1/1.2 20wt
zero rebound, bladders with the screw removed
0 rc shims
1.5* camber
3-2 block
5k kyosho dif grease
24mm ride height
blue springs
blue sway bars
Holeshot 2.0
hazzard wheels
pro4 4000kv 14/60 10* boost
hobbywing 120
RPM arms
STRC tensioner pullies
original idler gear!!!
http://www.youtube.com/user/Mantisworx?feature=mhee
Last edited by MantisWorx; 11-14-2011 at 04:37 PM.
THA VID!!!
setup:
Front
RCshox 1.1/1.2 25wt
zero rebound, bladders with screw removed
2.5mm travel limiters inside shocks
5mm RC shims
1* camber
-1* toe in
7k dif fluid
RCshox ACKbar -4 position
24mm ride height
yellow springs
yellow sway bar
REAR
RCshox 1.1/1.2 20wt
zero rebound, bladders with the screw removed
0 rc shims
1.5* camber
3-2 block
5k kyosho dif grease
24mm ride height
blue springs
blue sway bars
Holeshot 2.0
hazzard wheels
pro4 4000kv 14/60 10* boost
hobbywing 120
RPM arms
STRC tensioner pullies
original idler gear!!!
http://www.youtube.com/user/Mantisworx?feature=mhee
setup:
Front
RCshox 1.1/1.2 25wt
zero rebound, bladders with screw removed
2.5mm travel limiters inside shocks
5mm RC shims
1* camber
-1* toe in
7k dif fluid
RCshox ACKbar -4 position
24mm ride height
yellow springs
yellow sway bar
REAR
RCshox 1.1/1.2 20wt
zero rebound, bladders with the screw removed
0 rc shims
1.5* camber
3-2 block
5k kyosho dif grease
24mm ride height
blue springs
blue sway bars
Holeshot 2.0
hazzard wheels
pro4 4000kv 14/60 10* boost
hobbywing 120
RPM arms
STRC tensioner pullies
original idler gear!!!
http://www.youtube.com/user/Mantisworx?feature=mhee
Was that pinned? Basket?
Originally Posted by [LEFT
MantisWorx[/left];9910236]no, its the same setup i normally run except the
ackerman
setting were all the way back, that is not going to make up nearly a second in time. the truck feels much more planted and stable most noticeable
under exit acceleration and post jump. corner speed is greatly increased due to the CG in my opinion. no i don't
think the chassis is 100% effective but at least 90% in my case. none of the other changes will give that big of a time difference. i had to raise the ride height up slightly due to the weight but i made no other setup changes to compensate for the chassis, just to see what it would be like. i usually run yellow springs but changed Saturday
(why i don't
know!) the ACKbar
makes a driving difference but a tenth or two at the most as it makes it more comfy to push hard. I have a lot of wheel time and am pretty good at being able to tell what changes effect the truck.Paul R.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 166
From: East Islip Ny
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,546
From: Northern VA
I'm loving this truck. This past Saturday at East Coast Hobbies in Winchester, VA I held TQ for the first 2 rounds and then Eric also running the SC104x4 took TQ. It was a great battle in the main and the SC4x4 took first and second.
I went back on Sunday and dialed it in as I felt my setup could use some more middle and exit steering and I think I found it.
Mark
I went back on Sunday and dialed it in as I felt my setup could use some more middle and exit steering and I think I found it.
Mark

SLot, that is a great way of describing it! i know how it feels but hard to explain the difference. the steering is very precise on and off power. it gets in faster but doesnt throw the back around, just turns like it is suppose to and seems to be the same all the way through if that makes sense. I cant wait for everyone to get theirs on and running
I think this was answered a few hundred pages back, still searching, but what is the cause of the belt slipping off the pull under hard breaking?
I'm not braced but it's happening on carpet (track carpet not living room) on flat ground. I replaced the tensioner hardware which took some of the wobble out, but they didn't have the little wheel at the LHS.
I'm trying to remember if someone said the Al wheel worked or not, I think I remember someone saying NOT to use it for some reason.
Anyway, do you guys think it's just the wheel or should I check slipper or something else (need to soften my breaking power as well)
I'm not braced but it's happening on carpet (track carpet not living room) on flat ground. I replaced the tensioner hardware which took some of the wobble out, but they didn't have the little wheel at the LHS.
I'm trying to remember if someone said the Al wheel worked or not, I think I remember someone saying NOT to use it for some reason.
Anyway, do you guys think it's just the wheel or should I check slipper or something else (need to soften my breaking power as well)
THA VID!!!
setup:
Front
RCshox 1.1/1.2 25wt
zero rebound, bladders with screw removed
2.5mm travel limiters inside shocks
5mm RC shims
1* camber
-1* toe in
7k dif fluid
RCshox ACKbar -4 position
24mm ride height
yellow springs
yellow sway bar
REAR
RCshox 1.1/1.2 20wt
zero rebound, bladders with the screw removed
0 rc shims
1.5* camber
3-2 block
5k kyosho dif grease
24mm ride height
blue springs
blue sway bars
Holeshot 2.0
hazzard wheels
pro4 4000kv 14/60 10* boost
hobbywing 120
RPM arms
STRC tensioner pullies
original idler gear!!!
http://www.youtube.com/user/Mantisworx?feature=mhee
setup:
Front
RCshox 1.1/1.2 25wt
zero rebound, bladders with screw removed
2.5mm travel limiters inside shocks
5mm RC shims
1* camber
-1* toe in
7k dif fluid
RCshox ACKbar -4 position
24mm ride height
yellow springs
yellow sway bar
REAR
RCshox 1.1/1.2 20wt
zero rebound, bladders with the screw removed
0 rc shims
1.5* camber
3-2 block
5k kyosho dif grease
24mm ride height
blue springs
blue sway bars
Holeshot 2.0
hazzard wheels
pro4 4000kv 14/60 10* boost
hobbywing 120
RPM arms
STRC tensioner pullies
original idler gear!!!
http://www.youtube.com/user/Mantisworx?feature=mhee
I know i'll have to rip my truck apart to verify but I wanted to ask this question.
for those with idler gear problems, does it sound like a grinding sound?? like teeth slipping?
wish I could work on my heap at work.
for those with idler gear problems, does it sound like a grinding sound?? like teeth slipping?
wish I could work on my heap at work.

Tech Regular
iTrader: (25)
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 334
From: New York
Had my first race with this truck....
At my track there weren't that many 4x4's SC so it was me and a slash 4x4 and two TT-01 I think they are called. They are the 1/10th truggys. But anyway I took TQ first in all the qualifiers. Then in the main one of the TT's beat me. So 1st in qualifiers and 2nd in the A-main. Truck ran great and I got the thing so quiet it sounds like a 2wd. Anyways just thought id share my racing experience!
Thanks,
Dan
Ps. I had a little belt slippage on hard Acceleration out of corners though, hopefully chassis brace will fix that.
At my track there weren't that many 4x4's SC so it was me and a slash 4x4 and two TT-01 I think they are called. They are the 1/10th truggys. But anyway I took TQ first in all the qualifiers. Then in the main one of the TT's beat me. So 1st in qualifiers and 2nd in the A-main. Truck ran great and I got the thing so quiet it sounds like a 2wd. Anyways just thought id share my racing experience!
Thanks,
Dan
Ps. I had a little belt slippage on hard Acceleration out of corners though, hopefully chassis brace will fix that.
Could be the gear on the top shaft, mine was making a grinding noise when the gear broke loose from the shaft.
I think this was answered a few hundred pages back, still searching, but what is the cause of the belt slipping off the pull under hard breaking?
I'm not braced but it's happening on carpet (track carpet not living room) on flat ground. I replaced the tensioner hardware which took some of the wobble out, but they didn't have the little wheel at the LHS.
I'm trying to remember if someone said the Al wheel worked or not, I think I remember someone saying NOT to use it for some reason.
Anyway, do you guys think it's just the wheel or should I check slipper or something else (need to soften my breaking power as well)
I'm not braced but it's happening on carpet (track carpet not living room) on flat ground. I replaced the tensioner hardware which took some of the wobble out, but they didn't have the little wheel at the LHS.
I'm trying to remember if someone said the Al wheel worked or not, I think I remember someone saying NOT to use it for some reason.
Anyway, do you guys think it's just the wheel or should I check slipper or something else (need to soften my breaking power as well)
Edit: Oh, and Mantis. You drive very similar to my style. I break my back end out at the end of the turn to get around some of those corners just a split second faster though. (similar to how you are breaking out occasionally, but i'm doing it intentionally.) But you're smooth and constant. That's my problem.



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