5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
11-13-2011 | 04:51 PM
You drill a hole through the rear shaft and slot the inner slipper plate to "pin" it to the rear shaft. Locks the front and rear together to the same shaft. Some like it some don't depends on the track.
11-13-2011 | 05:22 PM
11-13-2011 | 05:30 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
Okay. Here's my Method for quick 5 minute breakdowns to get to the diffs. Hope this helps some of you guys.
Quick Diff Removal Guide:
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Step 5
You may try this and call me crazy, but once you can easily pop on and off those CVAs. This is literally a 5 minute diff removal. And you don't have parts strung out all over. Only 4 pieces. or "chunks" I should say. Lemme know if you guys have questions.
I got lazy and didn't want to do a video. Mostly because I have no one to hold the Cellphone Camera.
Quick Diff Removal Guide:
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Step 5
You may try this and call me crazy, but once you can easily pop on and off those CVAs. This is literally a 5 minute diff removal. And you don't have parts strung out all over. Only 4 pieces. or "chunks" I should say. Lemme know if you guys have questions.
I got lazy and didn't want to do a video. Mostly because I have no one to hold the Cellphone Camera.
Then half way though the main, my pionon gear started slipping on the shaft and took me out of the race. I think the problem was that I switch from 15/62 to 14/62 after the first practice and the loctite hadn't set prior to running it again and it eventully back it's way out. Probably due to me having the slipper too tight and "punch" set to high.
11-13-2011 | 05:36 PM
Tech Master
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,286
Lost an LRP TC spec V2 yesterday. About 8 minutes into its 2nd ever pack, it went dead. No lights, no nada. Only temp'd it at 105, motor at 148 (4.5 550 LRP). Truck seemed pretty good, running w/o pin as I didn't wanna kill another idler. I swear, this truck has evil spirits in it...anyone know a witch doctor??
11-13-2011 | 05:45 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
While you all sit there and make mods, play with set-up, yadda, yadda, yadda, none of you have come to grips that the car is a basher only. I am an AE fanboy and know it is a POS when it comes to racing
I will not sell it as my 8yo loves it for playing in the yard but YOU will not be able to truly compete on a track with any mods. We are not the Ryan's and never will be. The Losi sucks too as you have to spend more money to upgrade the soft metal but it is so heavy and planted, we cannot compete unless you have a long main where you know the batts will dump on th Losi.
I suspect AE knows this as well. I am sure I will get flamed but it is the truth.
BTW, I post this knowing I have not had one issue that everyone else has had either. No slipping belt, no bent cvds, no warped a-arms. I do have the clutch basket though.
I will not buy a Losi though and would rather dump the class but will probably build an sc10 out of excess rc8 parts.
I will not sell it as my 8yo loves it for playing in the yard but YOU will not be able to truly compete on a track with any mods. We are not the Ryan's and never will be. The Losi sucks too as you have to spend more money to upgrade the soft metal but it is so heavy and planted, we cannot compete unless you have a long main where you know the batts will dump on th Losi.
I suspect AE knows this as well. I am sure I will get flamed but it is the truth.
BTW, I post this knowing I have not had one issue that everyone else has had either. No slipping belt, no bent cvds, no warped a-arms. I do have the clutch basket though.
I will not buy a Losi though and would rather dump the class but will probably build an sc10 out of excess rc8 parts.
Also, by your own explanation, the only other contender in this class is the Losi, and since the only advantage you give is weight, the problem is solved with any form of mass coupled with adhesion.
If you want to compare how 4x4 runs against 2wd see for yourself: http://www.jlapracemanager.com/cgi-b...ATE=11_05_2011
Pretty close, but the 4x4 does hold a 1s advantage over the 2wd mod on average lap times.
So, only rational thing left about your post, is if your frustration has caused you to vent, in which case feel free to let it out, but don't give misinformation to those trying to make their trucks better.
Last edited by Mizchief; 11-13-2011 at 06:41 PM.
11-13-2011 | 05:56 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
a couple of questions for you, since i am just too stupid to by some other truck that can win out of the box with no mods. OOOOOOH wait, there is no other truck that can win with zero mods and even if there was who cares?? i mod my truck because i like to mod RC vehicles! not everyone drives the same or likes their truck to drive like everyone elses, its called personalization.
So answer this:
what company has the most RC championships?
What RC car/truck can win out of the box?
what was your point in trolling this thread?
its ok to "build your own SC" but we cant mod ours?
Cmon man, there is a Slash thread that may appreciate your BS but we dont, if you have nothing to contribute to this thread then please just move on.
So answer this:
what company has the most RC championships?
What RC car/truck can win out of the box?
what was your point in trolling this thread?
its ok to "build your own SC" but we cant mod ours?
Cmon man, there is a Slash thread that may appreciate your BS but we dont, if you have nothing to contribute to this thread then please just move on.
A non-modded truck will never win, because if a stock truck was superior, everyone would just buy it, then everyone would be on the same playing field, then everyone would start modding it to get an edge by tuning it to their needs.
11-13-2011 | 06:14 PM
I was there too. Left the same set up I usually run @ a different track in for Friday. Was completely wrong. I did manage to herd it around the track for the win Fri night.
Sat was just ugly. I rebuilt half the truck Fri night after racing. Replaced hinge pins, F/R arms, installed the garodiscs and dual stage pistons and 0.5 rear hubs. Started with 35 F 30 R for shock oil, and 2.2 F 2.0 R sway bars. Gold Barcodes, some trucks were on slicks. Yellow springs, added 3.5 oz's of weight too.
First qualifier was ugly, got punted early and truck was pushing like mad.
2nd qual, I went back to the 2.0 bar in the front, blue springs F/R. ESC connector busted on the 6th lap, which was fine, truck was now a twitchy ugly mess.
3rd qual for some inexplicable reason my slipper nut backed almost completely off...still no idea wtf happened there...swapped the nut and was fine in the main.
Track used Qual Points, best 2 of 3 runs determined your qualifying position. That put me in back of the B Main...I softened the rear up and went for it. Truck would atleast turn, back end was still loose but it was driveable...I had just worked myself into 3rd and was looking for #2 and the piston/screw/shaft came apart on the right rear shock ending a long long day.
I did get to watch Krio put it to the Losi tho in the A...was atleast a nice way to end it
Sat was just ugly. I rebuilt half the truck Fri night after racing. Replaced hinge pins, F/R arms, installed the garodiscs and dual stage pistons and 0.5 rear hubs. Started with 35 F 30 R for shock oil, and 2.2 F 2.0 R sway bars. Gold Barcodes, some trucks were on slicks. Yellow springs, added 3.5 oz's of weight too.
First qualifier was ugly, got punted early and truck was pushing like mad.
2nd qual, I went back to the 2.0 bar in the front, blue springs F/R. ESC connector busted on the 6th lap, which was fine, truck was now a twitchy ugly mess.
3rd qual for some inexplicable reason my slipper nut backed almost completely off...still no idea wtf happened there...swapped the nut and was fine in the main.
Track used Qual Points, best 2 of 3 runs determined your qualifying position. That put me in back of the B Main...I softened the rear up and went for it. Truck would atleast turn, back end was still loose but it was driveable...I had just worked myself into 3rd and was looking for #2 and the piston/screw/shaft came apart on the right rear shock ending a long long day.
I did get to watch Krio put it to the Losi tho in the A...was atleast a nice way to end it
what truck was yours ?
i tried some new products and it worked really great
oh yeah i was running
1 MTK
2 braced
3 pinned
4 one new thing i tried was Valvoline VV986 SynPower Synthetic Grease in the gear diffs front and rear worked great wont leak out wont brake down very consistent and supper smooth
11-13-2011 | 06:22 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
makes sense to me... two vehicles that weigh the exact same, but mass is centralized in one and not in the other, will handle completely different. that is why people are using saddle packs, and getting results.
also, if anyone is still figuring out the whole chassis brace thing, i bought a tail boom support (pack of 2) for an align trex 600 heli, cut off one end and drilled out the plastic end piece, cut the rod to size and epoxied it back on to the length i needed. it wasn't much work at all, and the pack of two support rods was 7 bucks. so i can make another one to have a spare.
it basically turned out the same as the guys starting with carbon rods and using the rc8 shock ends, but i got TWO for 7 bucks. do i win for cheapest brace?
also, if anyone is still figuring out the whole chassis brace thing, i bought a tail boom support (pack of 2) for an align trex 600 heli, cut off one end and drilled out the plastic end piece, cut the rod to size and epoxied it back on to the length i needed. it wasn't much work at all, and the pack of two support rods was 7 bucks. so i can make another one to have a spare.
it basically turned out the same as the guys starting with carbon rods and using the rc8 shock ends, but i got TWO for 7 bucks. do i win for cheapest brace?
I've tried to fix carbon landing gear before using epoxy but they always snapped off, but would get me though one landing or so (better to crash land than to not fly in my opinion) not worth undoing what you've already got as it's not really a problem if it breaks, but might be good to add a zip tie around the belt gard so if it does break the sticks won't come out and act like pole vault
11-13-2011 | 06:29 PM
i am using the 4k and its INSANE!! so freaking fast and never stops pulling, you can "blip" jump which helps alot in traffic. i ran a 4600 at the nats it was fast then but come to find out my ESC was quirky, fixed it and the 4k is faster then the 4.6 when i had it! i am geared 15/60.
11-13-2011 | 06:29 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
I'm still a noob so I might just be flat wrong, but I don't think that's a winning attitude. I'm not saying you shouldn't tune the truck to your style, but being able to meet it in the middle by changing your style can go a long way.
11-13-2011 | 06:32 PM
i am using the 4k and its INSANE!! so freaking fast and never stops pulling, you can "blip" jump which helps alot in traffic. i ran a 4600 at the nats it was fast then but come to find out my ESC was quirky, fixed it and the 4k is faster then the 4.6 when i had it! i am geared 15/60.