From what it seems and looks like. You are going to end up converting the front end (steering wise) to the SC10RS.

What's the point to run a hex in the front though?
I can see in the rear. Just do not understand why the front

Brent
We can talk about it tonight. The main reason is so you don't have to take the bearings out of the wheels each time. It also should give more support and a better "feeling" steering and lastly it seems to be the industry standard

Pretty sure my new AE buggy will come with hexes. I'll wait untill then to "convert"

If you're talking about the old style axles, you want the screws. Trust me. Hexes would be even better though.

may i ask why? is it because the old style axles are more prone to getting caught on a pipe? i haven't had any issues with them since i converted it from the screws to the old style nuts. i prefer them just because thats how my 2 sc10s are.

So let me see if I can get this right and understand what is needed for the front Hex setup

Use SC10RS Steering block # 9880
Will you need the C-clips for the axle? # 9882

What is the difference from Axle # 7496 and Axle 9881? I know the 9881 is off the SC10RS .
Listed above hex 3973
What about Hex #3950?

and what is the setup for the rear? do the axles need to be changed out?

The nuts have more wind resistance than the screws.

I like the screws because they don't strip out as easily personally.

I am unsatisfied with the AE hex setup so far. The rear has created slop way to quickly and the front binds bad if you tighten the wheel nut down a tiny bit to far. There is some refining before they work out. I think the aluminum hex in the rear and stick with the old style bearing in wheel and screw for retaining is the way to go hands down!!

Yep, the rear plastic hex will create slop quickly, especially if you run a mod motor. Going with JC or Proline's alum. hex for the rear is way to go. I've got bunch of old pin wheels/tires in the inventory gonna run those out first.

Which aluminum hex are you running

[QUOTE=Asharus;9889009]may i ask why? is it because the old style axles are more prone to getting caught on a pipe? QUOTE]

mostly from that yes. not like it is a big deal but I found the screws don't have a chance of snagging a hold down around a pipe and ripping the arm off.

Im not yet have been running the plastic AE ones and they are junk. The small ring on the backside comes off and smashes easily causing slop. I need to get my hands on some aluminum JC or Proline's. Im not into the front hex what so ever!! They suck!!

That is the same problem I had on my SC10RS in the rear.

I went with some aluminum and they are working great.

Me too. I tried the new AE plastic hexes on my b4.1 and it took maybe a week for the inner thin part to break.

I am running aluminum hexes on my b4.1 (rear only) and Sc10 (all 4 wheels) and am much happier now.

Someone asked on this thread why you would bother with the hexes? With the SC10 I do it so I can use any of my tires front or back. For the Buggy I do it because i got tired of stripping wheels with the pin style.

Which rear HEX are you running on the b4.1?