Ya that was weird that the instructions had you put it on the servo when there is that perfect mount under the ESC with holes to wire it up to the rx. Just be sure you got your Transponder number written down before you put under there.

Ran mine with the transponder on the mount under the ESC and had issues with it not picking up !

Maybe why the instruction book refers to having it on the servo instead

Awesome car though well balanced and handling is very well balanced

Did you flip the transponder around so the #'s are up? Otherwise the signal is going the wrong way.

You could always drill and tap m3 holes in the mud juarez like I did with the e Durango.

For those of you that already have your kit and is built, post some pics! A mains has got 1 less in stock as of right now.

Look couple pages there are pics and I even put a video up.

I saw yours and bigjayjay1, very nice. I was just looking for ways people have wired up there esc/motors, not that there arwe to many ways to do it.

Frank, I can't tell in your pic if you used 10 or 12 g wire? Is one recommended over the other or either or will work?

12g is perfect for the Rx8. I wouldn't go any thinner. I will post some pics of mine soon. Since I work at a hobby shop I spend more time working on everyone else's car instead of mine. We are also in the process of building a new indoor offroad track so I've been short on time. Frank from what I could see on the video your car looked amazing in the woops. Just soaked them up and kept great speed with stability.

It's 12g Novak wire and I tried a fed different configurations for the wire and esc and ended up following what was posted on the serpent site. The esc and motor wires have to lay down to fit under the body so there's not really many choices. I did have to punch a new hole in the tray where the esc sits to route the esc receiver wire. But other than that I don't think there are many choices. I would like to see some pics too

12awg wire is perfect IMO, 10awg is just to damn bulky, plus you need a rather hefty soldering iron.

Got my kit and will start putting it together this weekend. Couple questions?

Locally someone mentioned I may want the low roll center rear suspension mount. I looked at the nitro buggy thread and found the sheets on the different suspension mounts and various inserts. But could someone explain the different various letter combinations.

RR RR LR
RR FR
FR RR
FR FR
RR RR HR

Just want a better understanding.

Last thing I have the alu shock towers, but might use the carbon fiber ones first. I think I read about sanding and using CA glue on the edges. Is there for process to doing this..??

Thanks...

RR RR LR (rear toe plate outter w/ low roll center
RR FR (rear toe plate inner)
FR RR (front toe plate inner)
FR FR (front toe plate outter)
RR RR HR (rear toe plate litter high roll center)

Hope that helps

I was starting to think that Jay and I were the only guys that built them.

Yes, that helps a ton. Hopefully I can squeeze some time in this weekend to get started on this kit. I am tired of just looking at this box of parts.

cjomaha

man you guys are killing me i hopeful have my car done this weekend

Guys 12 gauge wires is more than sufficient for these cars. I will strongly suggest NOT using bullet connectors on your motor wires. The amp draw is often over the rating of the connectors and should one of those come off during a run it will be very bad.

The process to sanding the shock towers is simple. But don't just to the towers, do the carbon steering top mount as well. Just sand the edges with 400 grit sandpaper to knock off the rough spots then go over them with 800-1000 grit to smooth them out. After that I like to take a black sharpie marker and go over everything I just sanded (the edges). Finally get a couple of q-tips to apply the glue. I've done a ton of Touring Car kits and nothing works better than super thin finger nail glue from your local CVS or Wallgreen's. All tire CA type glues are thicker than nail glue. The one I use is called Jet Dry. 2 bottles to a pack for like $3. Wet the q-tip with glue and make smooth strokes abound the edges. When the q-tip starts to smoke from the fast drying activators, throw it away and start with a new q-tip. If you use the sharpie before glueing it leaves a nice shiny black "piano" Finnish.