tomorow i am going to a track that is about the size of the worlds 2011 track for 2wd buggies ....would the worlds setup work better than brents?? about med bight track looks slick.

always start with what you have and modify from there. I never just put someones setup on a car.

oh so tune as you go ok thanks!

Bingo... the only time i will straight change the current setup is if I have already been to the track and have done my homework on what setup works for me. I prefer that just so you know exactly what did what to the car.

+1, always start with a baseline that you have a good feel for.

Got my chassis today.... hoping to finish tonight

[QUOTE=Grouchman;9817049]Got my chassis today.... hoping to finish tonight


Who has them ?

For those running the long chassis, did you not like the stock setup before? Was it too twitchy or unstable?


Am I the only one that has no desire to run the longer chassis?

Anyone run the tq big bores on there truck or buggy

Here is my take on the new 8mm chassis. You have to have it. It makes the car way easier to drive fast and jumps a ton better. Both the cars we run against..Kyosho and Losi, jump very well. So tracks are changing a bit because of it.

The last two weekends a couple of us have been working on a setup for our track. For some reason, I just cant get any car to work properly for me when it has weight added to it. No difference with the 8mm car. I tried the worlds and Brents setups but they werent right for me. So this setup is really good at our track and if you have a medium to high grip indoor track..try it.


Front:
2 piston, AE 32.5 wt, 4 limiters, dark yellow kyosho spring, inside on arm, middle on tower, 30* blocks, 2mm spindle washer, 1A camber with 1mm washer.

Rear:
3 piston drilled with a #55 drill, AE 27.5 wt, one limiter, yellow kyosho spring, inside on arm, inside on tower, 2* antisquat, 0* hubs spaced middle, 1B camber link with 1 washer, 3.5* inboard toe.

Battery 1 pad forward, 8.5 Reedy motor with 78/21 gearing. 1/2 oz weight next to receiver.

Jconcepts green barcode v2 with new JC 3206-2 profiled insert and Jconcepts blue Rips scrubbed way down with stock JC And-1 inserts cut to width of tire.

On a track like ours (RCHR) short chassis is the way to go, as long as the track remains smooth, as soon as it gets pitted, that's when you really notice the difference.

I ran the longer chassis for a couple of months, and I can't wait to get mine and run it again, it does make the car more stable and jumps better.

I tried the +8mm chassis and can honestly say I do not like it so far. I haven't given up yet on it, still trying new things each weekend and trying to figure out a good setup for it (tried all the +8mm setups posted so far but just do not like any of them yet), but so far still prefer the stock chassis better. The car was more responsive with the short chassis. Just my personal preference.

after running a locals b4 with ae green springs up front and seeing some running blacks, on a smoother indoor wet clay track... i ordered a pair of kyosho silvers to try on my buggy next weekend. (ae green-3.5 ae-blk-3.2 kyo silver-3.3)

im running a very close setup to Thielke's setup. the main changes 1A camber link in the front and running .5 rear hubs with the 2.5deg block. also ae 30wt in the front with a #2 piston in the rear.

also waiting for a finnisher +8 to come back from the painter after trying one on my car this weekend i had to get one, made the car jump more flat and gave alot more on power steering then the bulldog. and will be switching from the 5.75" proline wing to the 6.5" high clearance wings, starting with 2 lines, maybe going down to 1.

love following this thread. have another question as usual, I hit a curb (not that fast) and all seemed to be ok, except,now it feels like someone cranked up the drag brake. it dosent roll at all when i let the throttle go neutral. i had the mamba max pro set to stock which is 20% drag and it feels like somthing tightened up. I will be overlooking it in the morning but if anyone can point me in the right direction that would be great. later

The motor could have shifted towards the spur gear creating tighter gear mesh