1/12 forum
Thanks mate. Looks like I will have to use the larger sized front rims as the smaller ones (which I prefer) rub on the ballstud. Sure I could sort it out but it means drilling holes and rearranging where the servo sits and I dunno if i can be bothered with all that at the mo!! I will let you know how it goes at the weekend!! Cheers.
Where's the "I need to recoup my iiC costs" Tire sale?
I thought there would be plenty of people selling their left over supply of tires from the race but I haven't seen any in FS thread.
So are you 1/12 iiC'ers selling or are you gonna hoard them for the rest of the season?

I thought there would be plenty of people selling their left over supply of tires from the race but I haven't seen any in FS thread.
So are you 1/12 iiC'ers selling or are you gonna hoard them for the rest of the season?
Are you going to get a thrust bearing for the rear diff or just run the flange? It was the first thing I did to my Gen-XL, though it was easy for me as I had one that fit just lying around. In my limited experience it makes a diff much smoother and last longer.
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,325
From: Grand Portage, MN
4-dot means 27.5 degrees of overall timing, for blinky I remember my old manual suggests the 2-dot in 13.5, which knocks it back up to 37.5 degrees or the motors natural timing. Don't take this as gospel though.
I'm far from an expert on gear, timing, rotor & roll setup for blinky classes.
If anyone saw my car at the iic, they can confirm this
And now for something completely different: 12th scale racing at Warners Bay in astroturf.
| + YouTube Video | |
With so many options out there, front ends, chassis, axles, and rear pods, one can build just about any 1/12 car a la cart using any combination of various parts available.
So does anyone have pics of their Frankenstein builds to show? (ie. brand X front end with brand Y chassis, and brand Z pod or axle)
So does anyone have pics of their Frankenstein builds to show? (ie. brand X front end with brand Y chassis, and brand Z pod or axle)
I would generally consider a thrust bearing, silicon nitride balls, and steel rings with only a tiny dab of grease the best. The flange washer type of axle, such as a CRC, always made my axles crunchy and I thought for a long time it was the balls and rings, then I got a Slapmaster thrust bearing and it was suddenly as smooth as glass run after run. I only take it apart to clean it now.
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,117
From: Austin, TX
I would generally consider a thrust bearing, silicon nitride balls, and steel rings with only a tiny dab of grease the best. The flange washer type of axle, such as a CRC, always made my axles crunchy and I thought for a long time it was the balls and rings, then I got a Slapmaster thrust bearing and it was suddenly as smooth as glass run after run. I only take it apart to clean it now.
For instance, can I install one on my 12R5.1 axle?



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