MTX 5
09-26-2011 | 11:41 PM
#991
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 745
http://ashfordhobby.com MTX5 1/10 Nitro Touring Car
In stock. My hat is off to Mugen USA for suppling all the parts required to race this car on our first stock order.
In stock. My hat is off to Mugen USA for suppling all the parts required to race this car on our first stock order.
09-27-2011 | 01:53 AM
#993
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,120
From: www.moorebankraceway.com
With the 26 pulley you don´t drive any split on the tires. Just used when you drive rubber tires, like in rain.
I like to drive always softer tires in the front than in the rear. First you have more steering and you tire wear is much better.
In qualifying you can use for example 35 front and 37 rear and for the finals 37 front and 40 rear. On high grip conditions or when it´s very warm, you can go higher with the shore.
The 600cst oil is too thick. But I think that is just the starting oil. So that the car is easy to drive. Don´t forget, not everybody who buys a MTX-5 has experience with that class.
I would start with the standard pistons and use 400 or 450 oil and also use the standard springs.
I would also change the ackerman position and would push it to the most forward position.
The next thing is to check your track width. I prefer to drive the front a little bit less than the rear. For example 197 or 198 in the front and 199 in the rear.
What a lot of people forget to check, is the downstop. In most cases you can use 4 in the rear and 1 in the front. But sometimes it´s important to play with it. The effect in my opinion is great when you change for example to 5 in the rear and 0 in the front, or only 0 in the front and 4 and the rear.
I like to drive always softer tires in the front than in the rear. First you have more steering and you tire wear is much better.
In qualifying you can use for example 35 front and 37 rear and for the finals 37 front and 40 rear. On high grip conditions or when it´s very warm, you can go higher with the shore.
The 600cst oil is too thick. But I think that is just the starting oil. So that the car is easy to drive. Don´t forget, not everybody who buys a MTX-5 has experience with that class.
I would start with the standard pistons and use 400 or 450 oil and also use the standard springs.
I would also change the ackerman position and would push it to the most forward position.
The next thing is to check your track width. I prefer to drive the front a little bit less than the rear. For example 197 or 198 in the front and 199 in the rear.
What a lot of people forget to check, is the downstop. In most cases you can use 4 in the rear and 1 in the front. But sometimes it´s important to play with it. The effect in my opinion is great when you change for example to 5 in the rear and 0 in the front, or only 0 in the front and 4 and the rear.
i'm hoping to get some spare diffs in time for a big race...hopefully i can get these
09-27-2011 | 06:34 AM
#994
Tech Regular
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 466
From: Brooklyn,new York
MTX5
Wow seen the car at the nats for its debut and was very impressed with barry and the car . It must be good , we got 10 in stock monday and 5 already sold .Thankyou mugen for making the car sellable for 559.99 much lower than other brands ! Touring car will be larger class than 1/8th scale next year .
09-27-2011 | 10:03 PM
#995
Tech Fanatic
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 846
I actually thought about that on the day, so something else I may try, but I may wait till I can build a couple of spare diffs to try that, really you would kind of expect the car to turn in even with a spool though, but I guess if it's now been built specifically with a front diff in mind.
To be fair, with the delays you got getting the kit, the spares caught up with the kits by the time they came in, by the looks of it.
To be fair, with the delays you got getting the kit, the spares caught up with the kits by the time they came in, by the looks of it.
09-27-2011 | 11:20 PM
#996
A few people I have talked to seem to think the diff gears won't last, I'm not convinced of that just yet, plastics being used right now are very hard, but I would think if they start looking fragile Mugen may release some steel gears, I'm not pointy end of engines anyway, so for me they may last a lot longer.
I was cleaning the 5 today, it seems to fuel up cleanly (no blow/vibrating up fuel during a fuel stop according to my pit man), and for some reason a lot of the car stays quite free of grime build up, with you able to get at a lot of the car with compressed air during a post race blow down.
Home cleaning procedure seems a lot like my old Team Magic G4JS, remove throttle linkage screw, pull clips and remove fuel tank, from there just work it with a brush, engines comes out easy so through there as well, only hard spot is around steering in the front, tight at the front, but a hell of a lot easier and quicker than cleaning down a MTX4.
Big selling point for me was always easier to work on, easier to maintain and clean, 5 seems to have all that, going to pull the diffs tonight to tighten the screws, while mine did leak a little, what has leaked seems to have all stayed stuck to the diffs, and not flung around anywhere else...
I was cleaning the 5 today, it seems to fuel up cleanly (no blow/vibrating up fuel during a fuel stop according to my pit man), and for some reason a lot of the car stays quite free of grime build up, with you able to get at a lot of the car with compressed air during a post race blow down.
Home cleaning procedure seems a lot like my old Team Magic G4JS, remove throttle linkage screw, pull clips and remove fuel tank, from there just work it with a brush, engines comes out easy so through there as well, only hard spot is around steering in the front, tight at the front, but a hell of a lot easier and quicker than cleaning down a MTX4.
Big selling point for me was always easier to work on, easier to maintain and clean, 5 seems to have all that, going to pull the diffs tonight to tighten the screws, while mine did leak a little, what has leaked seems to have all stayed stuck to the diffs, and not flung around anywhere else...
09-28-2011 | 12:01 AM
#997
Kindest regards,
Lars.
09-28-2011 | 12:36 AM
#998
NT1 use aluminum diff gears, but Shepherd V10 diff gears that are made of steel also fits NT1 and Capricorn diffs. So there's another option for those that want steel diff gears. Capricorn LAB01 has carbon gears that would also fit in that case.
Kindest regards,
Lars.
Kindest regards,
Lars.
09-28-2011 | 02:55 AM
#999
Tech Adept
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 139
From: Italy
A few people I have talked to seem to think the diff gears won't last, I'm not convinced of that just yet, plastics being used right now are very hard, but I would think if they start looking fragile Mugen may release some steel gears, I'm not pointy end of engines anyway, so for me they may last a lot longer.
I was cleaning the 5 today, it seems to fuel up cleanly (no blow/vibrating up fuel during a fuel stop according to my pit man), and for some reason a lot of the car stays quite free of grime build up, with you able to get at a lot of the car with compressed air during a post race blow down.
Home cleaning procedure seems a lot like my old Team Magic G4JS, remove throttle linkage screw, pull clips and remove fuel tank, from there just work it with a brush, engines comes out easy so through there as well, only hard spot is around steering in the front, tight at the front, but a hell of a lot easier and quicker than cleaning down a MTX4.
Big selling point for me was always easier to work on, easier to maintain and clean, 5 seems to have all that, going to pull the diffs tonight to tighten the screws, while mine did leak a little, what has leaked seems to have all stayed stuck to the diffs, and not flung around anywhere else...
I was cleaning the 5 today, it seems to fuel up cleanly (no blow/vibrating up fuel during a fuel stop according to my pit man), and for some reason a lot of the car stays quite free of grime build up, with you able to get at a lot of the car with compressed air during a post race blow down.
Home cleaning procedure seems a lot like my old Team Magic G4JS, remove throttle linkage screw, pull clips and remove fuel tank, from there just work it with a brush, engines comes out easy so through there as well, only hard spot is around steering in the front, tight at the front, but a hell of a lot easier and quicker than cleaning down a MTX4.
Big selling point for me was always easier to work on, easier to maintain and clean, 5 seems to have all that, going to pull the diffs tonight to tighten the screws, while mine did leak a little, what has leaked seems to have all stayed stuck to the diffs, and not flung around anywhere else...
I was in Melzo (home track of Francesco Tironi) and in the last race, a week ago, he broke the rear diff.
I think is a matter of material the gears are made. Maybe the plastic is not the best for that work. I drive a NT1 and using Capricorn light gears (and alu pins also) and I made 5 or 6 races on it with tests and so with no problem.
I have to say that Melzo Track is a hard track for differential since it has 4 hairpins in wich you have to brake a lot and then when you turn the internal rear wheel loose the contact with the ground and it rounds discharging the power (and this is not the best for diffs).
I will keep you informed if Francesco will come up with updates or so
09-28-2011 | 03:33 AM
#1001
Ok, I just came up with something strange while cleaning my 5, if I hold/lock off the steering servo, you can still move the steering a little, possibly more than it should with a little more ease than it should move around center.
So I pulled out the servo saver (very easy to do I must admit), and sure enough there is a bit of play in there before it hits the cams to restrict movement, during use a little fuel/oil has gotten in there making it maybe a little slicker than when first built.
But I have to ask if it's normal?, with the car in one piece I suggest just lock the top of the saver post with your fingers, and try moving your steering wheels side to side, maybe I'm just being new kit paranoid?.
So I pulled out the servo saver (very easy to do I must admit), and sure enough there is a bit of play in there before it hits the cams to restrict movement, during use a little fuel/oil has gotten in there making it maybe a little slicker than when first built.
But I have to ask if it's normal?, with the car in one piece I suggest just lock the top of the saver post with your fingers, and try moving your steering wheels side to side, maybe I'm just being new kit paranoid?.
09-28-2011 | 04:02 AM
#1002
Ok, found and fixed the issue I just discovered, so here is another quick build tip, pull apart your servo saver, take the cup side of the cam, and file/sand down the cup a little bit, test fit and after removing no more than a mm or so, the cams can now fully touch/seat properly, and no more play.
Plastic mold glitch?, the cup sits just a shade tall, so the oposing cams don't fully seat/touch, result is a few mm of steering play in the servo saver, file down that cup a mm or so and it's slop/play free.
So the question I have to ask is, was it effecting my turn in?.
I was giving it a month before someone tried to brace it themselves, you beat the bet I had with myself.
Plastic mold glitch?, the cup sits just a shade tall, so the oposing cams don't fully seat/touch, result is a few mm of steering play in the servo saver, file down that cup a mm or so and it's slop/play free.
So the question I have to ask is, was it effecting my turn in?.
I was giving it a month before someone tried to brace it themselves, you beat the bet I had with myself.
Last edited by Bishop; 09-28-2011 at 04:16 AM.
09-28-2011 | 07:51 AM
#1004
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,569
From: My house.
Well Bishop,that sounds like the culprit.Know that I think about your issue remember having a similar issue when raced a MP7.5,changed the steering servo and the servo saver was set to be loose,it was like I had a S3003 in there 
Keep us posted k?
Keep us posted k?