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Old 08-28-2011 | 01:27 PM
  #6931  
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Originally Posted by BlackLabelVinyl

I tried this set-up this weekend, and I have mixed emotions about it.

First off, the truck was very balanced from left to right. The biggest issue I had was too much steering. I couldn't dial any more out, and the rear end was loose. It seems that this configuration place too much weight up front.

Also, my truck was much happier with the added weight of the stick pack and the 9oz. I added to it. Oh well, back to the drawing board.....
put the batteries in the back and run the electronics in the front.
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Old 08-28-2011 | 01:41 PM
  #6932  
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Originally Posted by BlackLabelVinyl

I tried this set-up this weekend, and I have mixed emotions about it.

First off, the truck was very balanced from left to right. The biggest issue I had was too much steering. I couldn't dial any more out, and the rear end was loose. It seems that this configuration place too much weight up front.

Also, my truck was much happier with the added weight of the stick pack and the 9oz. I added to it. Oh well, back to the drawing board.....
where did you have 9 oz? how bout switching the batt configuration to straight down the middle with smaller batteries?
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Old 08-28-2011 | 02:02 PM
  #6933  
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Thanks for letting us know blacklable. For me I think I will stay with the stock configuration with weight on the electronics side until or if AE comes out with a factory team saddle pack layout.
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Old 08-28-2011 | 02:18 PM
  #6934  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
I have that much subtrim in mine, has equal throw both ways, servo tracks straight, is it supposed to be a problem?

Here is the scales I use:

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Digital-P...517988&sr=8-23

I paid $4.99, and apparently overpaid.
Originally Posted by Slotmachine
Why dont you just try to adjust some of that out with the steering turnbuckles?
I didn't think of that??? Would this help??

THX
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Old 08-28-2011 | 03:54 PM
  #6935  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
where did you have 9 oz? how bout switching the batt configuration to straight down the middle with smaller batteries?
Funny since I added 8oz to my saddle pack setup before I got it to work.

I think the key is the 8-9oz if you are running on a track that doesn't take rubber on a normal club race day.
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Old 08-28-2011 | 04:36 PM
  #6936  
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Having a small problem with my truck guys. It's over heating the motor quickly. It's not the ESC, because without the power or pinion ot comes to a pretty quick stop. I am running a 5.5t LRP 540 with a 14/93 gearing, one tooth lower than the reccomended factory gearing for that motor. I have only had this truck a week and I did buy it used. Could it be the pulley's causing the problems? I will be ripping it down and doing a fresh rebuild on it so I know what was done to it but it just doesn't seem right to only get 2 minutes before it thermals.
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Old 08-28-2011 | 04:42 PM
  #6937  
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Originally Posted by Scottmisfits
Having a small problem with my truck guys. It's over heating the motor quickly. It's not the ESC, because without the power or pinion ot comes to a pretty quick stop. I am running a 5.5t LRP 540 with a 14/93 gearing, one tooth lower than the reccomended factory gearing for that motor. I have only had this truck a week and I did buy it used. Could it be the pulley's causing the problems? I will be ripping it down and doing a fresh rebuild on it so I know what was done to it but it just doesn't seem right to only get 2 minutes before it thermals.

It could be wheel hexes rubbing the bearings.
too tight of a belt?(what are the settings)
any type of drag. How far will it roll on the ground with no pinion installed??


depending in the size of the track you may never get it under control with that low of a turn motor.
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Old 08-28-2011 | 05:20 PM
  #6938  
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The wheel hexes have been spaced out but it never hurts to check again. Not sure what the settings are but I moved the pulley's so I get the belt off of the guide from front to back as well as having 1/8-3/16" of play on the belt, as per the instructions if not a touch looser. It only rolls for about 10-14" with no pinion.
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Old 08-28-2011 | 06:01 PM
  #6939  
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Originally Posted by jpure009
I didn't think of that??? Would this help??

THX
Before adjusting turnbuckles, set all transmitter steering trims to zero and any sub trim to zero. Turn Radio on. Servo arm should be at 90 degrees. If not then the servo arm is not on the splines correctly. If it is close to 90 degrees but not dead on then correct it with sub trim (if available). Correct the arm (if needed) and adjust the turnbuckles so that the truck turns straight without using the trims. Use the trims for fine adjustment after this. This way your steering is centered and the same side to side.
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Old 08-28-2011 | 06:39 PM
  #6940  
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Default sway bars

Would the sway bars I have on my sc10 4x4 fit a sc10 2wd? Im not familiar with these trucks so I apologize for such a rookie question
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Old 08-28-2011 | 07:12 PM
  #6941  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
Funny since I added 8oz to my saddle pack setup before I got it to work.

I think the key is the 8-9oz if you are running on a track that doesn't take rubber on a normal club race day.
Where are you placing the 8 to 9 oz on the saddle pack setup?
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Old 08-28-2011 | 08:09 PM
  #6942  
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2oz on the bulkhead behind the servo
2 1/2oz on the opposite side of the motor
1/2oz next to the speedo
And the 550 motor is 110 grams heavier than the 540 motor I took out.
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Old 08-28-2011 | 09:15 PM
  #6943  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
2oz on the bulkhead behind the servo
2 1/2oz on the opposite side of the motor
1/2oz next to the speedo
And the 550 motor is 110 grams heavier than the 540 motor I took out.
Are you even weight all around after this?
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Old 08-28-2011 | 09:15 PM
  #6944  
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Originally Posted by kmags
Before adjusting turnbuckles, set all transmitter steering trims to zero and any sub trim to zero. Turn Radio on. Servo arm should be at 90 degrees. If not then the servo arm is not on the splines correctly. If it is close to 90 degrees but not dead on then correct it with sub trim (if available). Correct the arm (if needed) and adjust the turnbuckles so that the truck turns straight without using the trims. Use the trims for fine adjustment after this. This way your steering is centered and the same side to side.
Thx I'l try...
THX j
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Old 08-28-2011 | 11:28 PM
  #6945  
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Originally Posted by Cain
Thanks for the info.

So, any opinions on the vented slipper hub? Are they necessary for 550 motor usage without without the basket?
Any news on this I'm running the sct 1410 combo and right now no issues with the clutch but was wondering if anyone purchased these vented hubs and are running it without the basket and if so how is it performing ?
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