Trust me, you will love it!!! Just make sure to put ALL new pads on... A certain some one put onld ones back on by accident... I looked at the ones I had laying on my bench and was like "dam, these still look brand new!" Thats cuz they were. lol, I felt so retarded.

Craig, you has teh point


AE intended the SC10 4x4 to be lightweight, and they broke their heads trying until they made it as light as they wanted it to be.

The Losi, being 1lb heavier than the AE, wasn't intended to be as light on the first place.

The AE has advantages that the Losi does not, like better off-power steering, less braking distance, more acceleration, better momentum conservation, and less sliding overall.

All of this, due to the AE's much lighter weight. If you increase the weight, you lose all this traits.

While it can be beneficial on very wide and open tracks, on most SCT or 1/10 tracks (and even 1/8), it's beneficial to have less weight.

For people wanting a bit of both? There's the Durango. More planted than the AE, but lighter than the Losi.


I mean, seriously. Instead of adaptating the truck to the driver, the driver must choose the truck that suits his/her driving style the best!

And I'm not saying that anyone's a bad driver because he ballasts the truck, I'm saying that maybe the AE's not the adequate truck for him/her.

Aren't the FT Shock Bodies teflon coated? That would make them a little smoother correct?

For the guys useing the RS PRO esc with 540 motors, what are your temps on the esc looking like? Also how many lights are you getting after a qualifier or main? I you have any ESC set-ups to try please post them, so I can give them a try.

I have the following:

RS PRO ESC
LRP 6.5 with 13mm rotor
14/62 (got a 15 to try next)
No timeing on the ESC
-5 timeing on the motor
Reedy 60c 5200 saddle pack

This set-up is so much better than my 4.5 Tekin 550. I had been running 15/93 48 pitch, but had a spur strip out on me so I went with the 14/62 32 pitch. The motor seems to be doing find temping at 140-145, but my esc actually hit thremal the other night during the race, once I switched my gearing to the 14/62 32 pitch. Would going up one tooth to a 15 pinion make that big of a difference? I see Ty Tessman ran 15/62 with the same motor I'm useing, but he used a LRP TC Spec V2 esc. Is the LRP esc more suitable for this since it has a fan? I've always used a RX8 with 4.5 550 in the Corr trucks I've raced, so this is my first go with 1/10th stuff. I just don't want to have to put my RX8 back in with this motor. I'm a pretty smooth driver, so I really love the 540 set-up.. I have all the power I want, without getting the truck all sideways with the big 550 motor.

PS. I run on a 1/8th scale style track that was super tacky Saturday from the rain we a had gotten earlier that day.

Okay, so what 4.5/5.5 540 motor and 13mm rotor are you guys using? I like running the 8.5 540 but would like more power to help clear jumps.

My issue is this. We have a section in the middle of the track with 6 jumps. Leading up to this section is a wide 180 that has three jumps through it so you just can't power through it and still make a nice turn. This leaves you with a very small window to set up for the set of six jumps. The guys in expert 4wd can tripple tripple these but us Sportsman drivers usually double single double single them.

Now, if I get a PERFECT run through the corner, exit EXACTLY where I want to, and accelerate as soon as possible...I can ALMOST tripple the first set. Forget about the second. The pro guys, who are not carring all that much more speed through that turn, can tripple these with power to spare it seems. They can accelerate later and have more time to adjust their line out of that corner because of this.

THAT'S what I'm looking for. I'm hoping the 550 5.5 is a step in the right direction but I always felt, and now it seems like I'm right, that the 540s were the way to go with this truck.

And what are these brakes I keep hearing about? I've found this truck likes throttle...a LOT. Seems like when my back end gets a little loose a bit more throttle calms it down...just like my touring cars.

The motor I run (5.5 @ 14/93) I have the timing at -5 and no timing at all in the speedcontrol. what are you running for speedo settings. You might try turning your current limiter down to 80-85. I can't feel any difference when doing this but it runs cooler.
Just a thought.

Yup. Going up 1 tooth on 32p is like going up 1.5t on 48p, and can make a world of difference to top speed, low end accelleration, and especially temps.

if you are temping 140 on 14t, then expect to temp 155-160 on 15t.

I don't think it's the fan that is making the LRP more suitable...I think it's just the way that the ESC is built. The TCSpec V2 has darn near the power handling of the RX8..in fact the raw FETs can handle DOUBLE the current that the RX8 can (RX8 is spec'd at 210A, the TCSpec V2 has FETs rated at 400A!)...but also, bear in mind that any time I've seen the LRP TCSpec V2, it is always acompanied by a huge Capacitor board with 3 big caps on it... the RX8 has similar caps contained within the ESC housing.

I've read over on Tekin's forum that adding an extra capacitor or two to the RSPro will help keep the temps in check... if LRP sells that board with the 3 huge caps on it seperately, that might be a nice upgrade to get the RSPro into the same ballpark without spending the bajillion dollars on the LRP ESC....especially if you already have the Tekin!

+1...I run a current limit of 80 on my RX8...temps stay around 160 on the motor and 140ish on the ESC with some pretty tall gearing, no reduction in top speed for the long straights, and it helps keep the wheel spin in check. My truck not only runs cooler, but is more controllable with current limiting on.

current limiter can actually raise ESC temps. think about it your limiting current..

I run 0 motor timing. and running timing and boost in esc. motor and esc come off at 140.
I added more timing to get temps to 150 and the straightaway speed i wanted. but this is on a 8.5 (small track)

Lockmouth one tooth on a 32 pitch gear is like 2 on a 48pitch..

I'm running 62/11 but using timing and boost on a 8.5 with 48 pitch gearing i was using 15/93 till i stripped it.

Basically I mimicked my fdr that i was using with the 4.5 tekin

what gearing worked for you on the tekin? you need to match that fdr
for example:

a 12/62 with a tekin 4.5 4800kv is a 13.28 fdr top speed 32mph

you went to a 6.5 w/rotor
you were running 15/93 fdr= 15.93 top speed 38mph

then you went to 14/62 which is 11.38 fdr and top speed of 53mph (way overgeared)

Try 11/62


MY advice? add an extra cap on the speedo. drop gearing. gear it low and add some timing!

Also note 32pitch 11T small shaft pinion Traxxas part# TRA6747

im in love with this truck! the truck is running good but i would like to have a little more rear traction.
20t pull f/r
camber -1.5 f / -2.0 r
diffs 30k f / 5k r
blue springs f/r
2.0 swaybars f/r
32.5wt f /25wt r bladder
batter ran in the middle
im using Cavalieri's suspention setup but with out the spacers under the turnbuckels.

the track i run at is a blue groove track with little to no dust, but lots of elevation changes.

i like the way the truck is setup and drives, but i would like to have more rear bite and more stability at high speed.

thanks,

Dan

I have an sc10 4x4 with an lrp x12l 5.5 on a n lrp stock spec v2 esc we ran the truck on a larger 1/8th scale track with a 13p/62s 32pitch it was only getting up to 165motor temp and 120. Esc temps and that is after about 10 minutes speedo profiles were 0-6-0-0 so no boost but last night on a smaller 1/10th scale track with some tight corners it thermaled all three times I checked the slipper no slipping and it seemed like it had no punch also is a 13 tooth pinion a little too much gear for tighter technical tracks

I forgot about the extra caps that helps also.

If you were limiting current by adding resistance, I would agree with you...but there is another way to limit current...

As I understand how Tekin does it, current limiting reduces throttle by enough to keep the current draw under a specified amount...as the motor speeds up and becomes more efficient, the current draw reduces, and the ESC allows the throttle to increase. It's almost like the opposite of timing advance, but not exactly.


Think about it like this: if you drove your truck around at 50% throttle for 10 minutes, is it going to melt down because you are limiting the current to 50%? nope. Same idea, but on a dynamic adjustment calculated probably several hundred if not thousand times per second.


But I do agree with you..adding a cap or three will definately help reduce temps without really affecting the punchiness of the ESC. I just like Current Limiting because it helps keep wheel spin in check as well.

Regardless of the type as i believe you are correct. But, when i used the limiting on my set-up temps increased 10-20 degrees.

if you guys are not running boost or timing and want it to run cooler run in dual mode. its what the rx8 uses

Try building the shocks emulsion style & space up your front ball stud, this will help.