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RC10B4.1 FT/WC

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Old 08-03-2011 | 11:13 PM
  #4621  
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Ae is the only buggy I've owned so I simply adjusted my driving to fit the car, other cars may not need the same driving style.....
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Old 08-03-2011 | 11:24 PM
  #4622  
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mess around with drag break it helps alot
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Old 08-03-2011 | 11:54 PM
  #4623  
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Here is my B4.1L chassis ready to receive electronics and so on













Started from T4.1 chassis, half parts have been glued with Loctite 480 and secured with carbone braces also glued and screwed
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Old 08-04-2011 | 12:43 AM
  #4624  
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Very smart angle cut! Who's going to try a dovetail?
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Old 08-04-2011 | 12:52 AM
  #4625  
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Very nice work Oliv thanks for posting.
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Old 08-04-2011 | 01:27 AM
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Thanks

The goal was to split the flex force differently than on a straight line and make the shadow battery strap posts disappeared...
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Old 08-04-2011 | 05:08 AM
  #4627  
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Originally Posted by dirt_oval
How can i get my B4.1 to turn like everyone exclaims theirs does? What setup do i need to look at exactly? I may just be spoiled to the rug though
Go to RC10.com, under set ups, go to B4.1, then look for the Maifield Reedy Race set up, that's a very good starting point, I've run that set up in different tracks and different track conditions, and the only tweaks that I would do are droop, ride height and tires....

I would say you probably have to add limiters to your front shocks, to have more exit speed, maybe your ride height is to high in the front, add a 1/4 oz lead to each side of the servo compartment...

Camber also plays a big role in how fast your car turns, possitive camber will give you more steering....

Definitely try the Maifield set up for starters....
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Old 08-04-2011 | 06:26 AM
  #4628  
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Originally Posted by oliv996
Thanks

The goal was to split the flex force differently than on a straight line and make the shadow battery strap posts disappeared...
Also provides more surface area to glue. I'm going to follow your chassis mod for mine.
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Old 08-04-2011 | 08:06 AM
  #4629  
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thanks for the help guys... guess i'll look somewhere else ......
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Old 08-04-2011 | 08:27 AM
  #4630  
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Originally Posted by G.L.P.
anyone ? .........

rc10T4.1 RTR with Reedy 3300Kv motor running a 7.4V 5000mah Lipo
is going up 1 or 2 teeth on the pinion a good idea? going from a 18T to a 19 or 20 T Pinion
stock setup is 18T/87T
will i get more top end with a 19T or a 20T pinion gear?

what is the best gear setup for this truck and motor?
Originally Posted by G.L.P.
thanks for the help guys... guess i'll look somewhere else ......
Try it and find out, just watch temps. Yes you'll get more top speed with the larger pinion, just don't go too far...
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Old 08-04-2011 | 08:29 AM
  #4631  
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Originally Posted by G.L.P.
thanks for the help guys... guess i'll look somewhere else ......
You're probably safe going 1 or 2 teeth up, but to be SURE, you need to temp the motor/esc with what you have in it now to know what your baseline is.

Last edited by Buckaroo; 08-04-2011 at 08:57 AM.
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Old 08-04-2011 | 08:36 AM
  #4632  
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I run my B4.1 RTR BL with +1 pinion, runs fine no overheat.

Still enough power for 3x 5 minutes qual + 15 minutes main with a 5000mah LiPo pack.

You can always run a 3S LiPo with your T4.1 RTR BL with the stock 3300 motor.
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Old 08-04-2011 | 08:51 AM
  #4633  
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Originally Posted by oliv996
Thanks

The goal was to split the flex force differently than on a straight line and make the shadow battery strap posts disappeared...
Very nice work!
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Old 08-04-2011 | 08:57 AM
  #4634  
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Hi can someone help me out and tell me what do I have to do to extend my
chassis
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Old 08-04-2011 | 08:58 AM
  #4635  
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Originally Posted by f1o7x9
Hi can someone help me out and tell me what do I have to do to extend my
chassis
Read over the last 15 pages, all the info you need is there.
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