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Old 09-26-2011, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
For those of you that have been waiting patiently the RCshox 2stage pistons are ready and in stock!
Also Garolite slipper pads go into testing this weekend!
for those of you not familiar with the pads they actually almost work opposite of the stock and HD pads. instead of slip/grab/slip/haze/slip, these actually slip and engage and you can even pull the wheels while its slipping. They do not glaze and offer superior wear. every few weeks just take some 600g sandpaper lightly sand and keep on going!

http://rcshox.com/shoxshop/catalog/i...hp?cPath=23_26
Will there be a B4 Garolite pad for the B4 and not the extra big SC10 4X4? Also, how do the 2 stage pistons work?
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Old 09-26-2011, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69
Will there be a B4 Garolite pad for the B4 and not the extra big SC10 4X4? Also, how do the 2 stage pistons work?
the old white pads and the new vented plates make for a great Combo !!!
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Old 09-27-2011, 04:58 AM
  #6123  
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Originally Posted by 916bdogg
the old white pads and the new vented plates make for a great Combo !!!
Why is that? Do the old pads not glaze over like a doughnut?
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:32 AM
  #6124  
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69
Why is that? Do the old pads not glaze over like a doughnut?
Yep . WHITES
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:15 AM
  #6125  
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Originally Posted by 916bdogg
Yep . WHITES
I'd try anything that keeps me from having to sand my slipper pads every other race day.

It really messes up my fingertips.

I could get away with doing it less often, but I hate it when the slipper feels less than perfect.
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:20 AM
  #6126  
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Originally Posted by Oso Negro
I'd try anything that keeps me from having to sand my slipper pads every other race day.

It really messes up my fingertips.

I could get away with doing it less often, but I hate it when the slipper feels less than perfect.
Just look at the bright side. If it messes up your finger tips/prints that much you can go rob a bank and buy as many slipper pads as you want. LOL
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:34 AM
  #6127  
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Originally Posted by Oso Negro
I'd try anything that keeps me from having to sand my slipper pads every other race day.

It really messes up my fingertips.

I could get away with doing it less often, but I hate it when the slipper feels less than perfect.
what i do is keep a old spur gear and a sheet of 400 grit sand paper, then put the slipper pad in between the two and hold down the sand paper while moving the spur with the slipper pad in between the two. that way your not sanding your fingertips. it only takes a matter of seconds per side of the slipper pads! wish i could take a picture of it, hope u get the idea. oh and yes u will be sanding a little off the outer section of the gear, thats why u use an old gear. pretty much the same process as sanding diff rings using a old female outdrive to hold the diff ring in place while sanding!
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:02 AM
  #6128  
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Emailed JConcepts about doing hex wheels for the B4 & they said yes but it will be a while. Don't really understand why so long as they always seem to be right on top of things AE does to their vehicles.Anyway thats what they told me.
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:14 AM
  #6129  
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Originally Posted by t4mania
Emailed JConcepts about doing hex wheels for the B4 & they said yes but it will be a while. Don't really understand why so long as they always seem to be right on top of things AE does to their vehicles.Anyway thats what they told me.
I did the same thing. Hex dish wheels will be coming out along with Inverse style wheels sometime next year.

Read this post...

http://www.rctech.net/forum/9633171-post4248.html

Jason testing the Inverse wheel at a Florida race.
Attached Thumbnails RC10B4.1 FT/WC-img_1165_800px-e1314886726574.jpg  
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:23 AM
  #6130  
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Originally Posted by ANiznik
what i do is keep a old spur gear and a sheet of 400 grit sand paper, then put the slipper pad in between the two and hold down the sand paper while moving the spur with the slipper pad in between the two. that way your not sanding your fingertips. it only takes a matter of seconds per side of the slipper pads! wish i could take a picture of it, hope u get the idea. oh and yes u will be sanding a little off the outer section of the gear, thats why u use an old gear. pretty much the same process as sanding diff rings using a old female outdrive to hold the diff ring in place while sanding!
Thanks for that tip!

I do the same thing you do with the diff rings so I don't know why it never occurred to me to try an old spur for the slipper pad. I imagine the more you use that old spur the better it gets for sanding a slipper pad too.
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:45 AM
  #6131  
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Originally Posted by Oso Negro
I'd try anything that keeps me from having to sand my slipper pads every other race day.

It really messes up my fingertips.

I could get away with doing it less often, but I hate it when the slipper feels less than perfect.
Should not have to so offen, I have not even touch my slipper in a month or more cept to adjust.

Using Yellow pads,4.1 spring & new vented slipper plates.....
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Old 09-27-2011, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Should not have to so offen, I have not even touch my slipper in a month or more cept to adjust.

Using Yellow pads,4.1 spring & new vented slipper plates.....
Just to clarify: I don't have to, I just choose to. I don't like any glazing on my pad at all. I am actually trying to do it less often.
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Old 09-27-2011, 11:29 AM
  #6133  
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Originally Posted by Oso Negro
Just to clarify: I don't have to, I just choose to. I don't like any glazing on my pad at all. I am actually trying to do it less often.
The pads don't need to be sanded like you are doing so offen , just adjustment which should be checked after every few runs....
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Old 09-27-2011, 11:39 AM
  #6134  
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Most of the setups I've seen the pros tend to run weights in the rear of the car, whats the rationale behind it? Wouldn't that just make the car go nose way up on jumps?
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Old 09-27-2011, 11:47 AM
  #6135  
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Originally Posted by GuiltyByAssoc
Most of the setups I've seen the pros tend to run weights in the rear of the car, whats the rationale behind it? Wouldn't that just make the car go nose way up on jumps?
With lipos the weight is reduced and need to add weight back in. It also helps settle the car and make it more predictable. I tried running the b4 w/o ballast weight and it's a handful. I think with time you could run the car w/o the additional weight with a different setup, but it's easier just to add weight.
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