I run a 19 tooth pinion/32p spur with the CC 1410 & MMP. After 10 min runs at WCRC I'm normally around 120-130F. But keep in mind I'm also running a small Novak motor fan that helps keep things 10-15 degrees cooler.

Which spur, kit supplied 62t?

Yes sir.

Hi! I'll be building my kit very soon and was wondering if there have been any new problems discovered, any new tips to help in the building process, or vital recommendations one should know about? CraigV's first post has been very informative and helpful... but I noticed it was also last updated about a month ago... I haven't been able to keep up with this thread as much as I would have liked so Thanks in advance for any info!

Good lord, that's some tall gearing.

On a side note, ThunderbirdJunkie picked up some GT2 spurs to play with gearing options for an LRP 1/8 scale 2800kv motor on the RX8. With it geared right, hopefully it'll play well with 2 cell operation.
Read the thread. First page, specifically.

Thats the nice thing about the 1410, its all bottom end. I just get faster in the straight and dont loose any in the jumps and corners. Even outside in high ambient temps, my motor w/fan never gets above 150F btw, according to the techs at CC, the 1410 is safe to run up to 200F.
EDIT: yeah I'm a spacecase, checked again and I'm runnin 17 tooth pinion DOH! SoCal Jared is not worthy T-BirdJunkie!

I have never owned a sc10 before I'm coming from a slash 4x4. It's stictly for racing what's better to get a sc10 ft or sc10 4x4?

what do you like most? 2wd or 4wd. make your dicision en pick your choice

He did...

Something I've noticed on EVERY SC10 4x4 around here (there are 5 of us at the main track so far) is that the front arms will start to deform right where the screw hole is for the sway bars. If you are not adding sway bars, put a screw into the mount anyway. It will give you a little bit more durability in your front arms. (I've seen many people here comment on this, yet it still isn't part of the initial post....)

Also, when assembling the slipper, depending on how your kit was made, you will likely have to shim it an extra 1/16th of an inch, or 2mm... I used 2 1/4" washers that were about 1/32 (1mm) thick between my slipper plate and slipper spring and I have no slipper issues. Some people report putting this on the other side of the slipper assembly (put them on the shaft before the pulley) works well. Just be careful that your belt is lined upstraight from front to back.

Drive the truck like a touring car and you will likely find more success than if you drive it like a monster truck... The general consensus is that this truck prefers finesse, while the Losi prefers to be manhandled.

Just my 3 cents.

That gearing gives you a theoretical top speed of 41Mph.... are you racing or bashing? How hot is your motor getting after 7-10 minutes of hard driving?

If 40Mph really isn't fast enough for you (assuming you are bashing....I don't know many tracks where much more would be very useful since the straights aren't usually long enough for more....) I would get the 58T spur and start over on your gearing...

If your truck isn't going anywhere near 40Mph (get your buddy to take you for a drive down the street while you drive your truck ahead or behind his car and watch his speedometer), I would check for serious binding in your drive train... running 16/62 should be pretty fast AND quick (that's the same gearing I'm running right now on my Tekin 5.5T 4000kv motor at a large offroad track with long straights...)

Guys, I'm having a receiver problem. using Spectrum Dx3S controller and SR3300t receiver and Spectrum S6040 servo...Here's the problem-

With the car powered on, when I turn the wheels left and right really fast the motor will jerk by-itself without touching the trigger (and the receiver's light will flickker a bit) . Since the DX3S came with an extra receiver, I tried the SR300 receiver..same thing!

I then took out the AE receiver/controller that came with my b4.1 rtr...green light steady-on...turn wheels left/right really fast...No problems!

Is it just my luck that I got 2 bad receivers? will a capacitor on the receiver help? think Spectrum makes one.

yea you need a cap.

Ahh..cool! I really hope this will address the issue...thanx!

I am working with Wes at OutFrontFrames (Racetek on here) on making carbon fiber plates that will attach to the front arm to help the arm not bend. Still working it out but it will keep the arm from bending but still have some flexibility.

That's amazing! I ran a 14t/32p last w/e and my sc4x was 150d after a full pak. No motor fan thou, and the hottest temp on rx8 was a comfortable 115d. Can't wait to run the new layout.