Well i took it apart first thing i noticed was the outer CB bearing had come apart found half of the metal shaving from the outside of it, although it was not locked up which would make sense of the wheel spin. The springs and shoes look fine and the CB looks ok a tiny bit of scouring mabey from the the metal shaving not sure. Gonna replace the CB, bearing and re-shim and go from there. Thanks for the help guys good to know you got a place to get some info

hey ya SEF......hhehehehe

welcome to the "Dark Side"....hehehehehe
well at Rev there are a few "Tricks" to do for running there some of the guys have tried...they swear by'em.....?

but both my E-Truggies are "Kinda Stock" just the 10* spindles and Carriers,LRC's and Springs from Progressive Eng.
the V2 tower.....and i think that's it....???? well on mine anyways...??
my 2 Nitros there the same but they have the LRC on them as well.
and really the "Stock" plates were fine...i just liked them since they were allot like the hindge pin mounts like my Old AE cars......
and I pretty much run "Drakes Stock Set Up" for Electric
except for Springs and Oil for shocks.....

Thanks Blade. Looks like I'll have to try the 10deg spindles and carriers with the LRC hinge pin holders. Drake's setup for buggy is dialed at Revs. His setup always seems like a good starting point.

Thinking about throwing a Werks B5 with a 2013 pipe in the truggy. I'll start with Drake's standard clutch setup. From what I've read, this setup works great for a good price. Do you guys agree?

I personally like the M2C variable weight clutch with the Werks. 4 medum shoes with 1.0 springs is a good all around setup.

however, you will need the quick change engine mount (you can flip the top pieces around to put the engine forward more) and the ofna 3 vent cutch bells.

The losi setup is fine, but unless you run on a really loose track, I don't think the soft setup drake uses will be the best. Tr 4 aluminum/longlife shoes first.

Revelation can be a fairly loose track. Always hardpacked with a loose top layer. And during longer race days, the track can get very rutted up and be relatively inconsistent. Does that change the clutch setup I should try first?

I have have heard people make the rear mesh as tight as they can get it by adding a few extra shims to it. My question is, how many shims does that take on each side? The instruction manual specifically says (3) .10mm shims on one side, and (1) .25mm shim w/ (2) .10mm shims on the other......

Trial and error on a diff isn't a very good option considering how much of a bitch it is to keep tearing the entire rear drivetrain down to make each change. Does anyone have any specific data regarding this? How many shims used? Which sizes?

Every gear set is a bit different. There is no standard number of shims to use. That is something you just have to learn a feel for. You want it tight enough so it is a bit notchy in one spot, but for the most part spins freely without binding.

Didn't reread what i wrote... I know i didn't say a thing about hingepins, blowing anything...

Apparently, I wasn't clear enough The mod is so the gear box doesn't flex, simple... Also found out the mod can from billy fisher, so... Guess a few of us need the mod, & few don't

I also did my on research, Come to find out, it is the rear hinge pin on the mugen truck

PEACE
TOPS

Glad you Identified the problem and glad to be a help.
A new clutch bell and bearings will get you back up and running in no time.
I wouldnt risk re'using the older bell as it could be reamed out and the bearing will just slop around in there and you'd probably end up with the same problem happening again...
All the best..

+1...I actually never put a shim on the "teeth side" of the ring gear. I only shim toward the pinion to get the proper mesh. I also place a thin shim behind my pinion to obtain the proper pinion depth. "Knock on wood"...I have probably got ~12 gallons on the original gearset and it is still buttery smooth.

Now if only I could get my clutchbell and spur to last that long!!!

BTW: the last 3 gallons were used behind an O.S. .25 and actually just put another gallon on it today breaking in my new Clocked O.S. .25 (Can you say "HOLY S#!T"). I guess I'll see how they hold up this weekend on race day.

+1^^^ thats all Ive ever done also and im into my second engine in the truck Both have been Novarossi's with plenty of stump pulling power and have no diff probs at all. (also knocks on wood)...

So if you only shim the one side how many shims are you typically starting with? Are you just using 1 clutch shim behind the pinion?

I am still running the same gears since the truck first came out. All I do is follow the instructions in the manual. The only ONE time I had rear diff issues is when I started using the alum bearing holders. I went back to the plastic ones and have not had a problem yet. The only reason I have found for a rear DIFF to blow is guys not installing the Differential Gears correctly. Now the ring and pinion has 2 faults I have found. One being people are not shimming right either TO MANY or NOT ENOUGH shims. Shimming to tight can tear up the ring and pinion gears too. And second, when attaching the Center Rear CV Drive Shaft Assembly, some guys are not making sure the Differential Pinion Coupler is all the way on the pinion. This happened to me when I first got my 8T.

These are only MY observations and opinions.

I agree 100%, attching rear uni to pinion is most likely not done correctly.

I know this is for a 1.0 truggy but the 1.0 forum is dead. I'm dusting off my 8ight-t after 3 years of storage and I was wondering what's the good clutch setup with the stock clutch at rev? I currently have the older werks clutch in mine as the stock clutch burned up bearings like crazy (we were also running all aluminum shoes and 4 silvers back then). I want to go back to the stock clutch so will 2 greens/2 golds work ok with alu shoes? I also have tko bearings in storage for the clutch as those seem to last the longest.