No fair!

Where do you put the blue foams? Or do you just throw in the bladders and thats it?

The foams go between the bladder and the cap, I have not used those caps before, but I assume there is a hole for air to escape, the foam helps the bladder keep it's shape as the shock compresses. Maybe ask this question in the onroad AE section, you may get more response from them.

CA and Carbon dust is the best, BK use to do it when he was a kid and he wasnt sponsored and didnt have money for parts. And same when he was with X facotry he would cut his chassis and make it longer on both the truck and buggy. im thinking about cutting a chassis and making it longer my slef, Cav from what my friend seen at HRH( he was there) he took a peak at cavs 2w and could see it was longer but wasnt as long as the truck, same with Tebo his was longer also.



Ty

Your prolly not going to get the same result as you would with a longer chassis, your doing what ever to the arms making the rear of the car longer instead of the center of the car longer, you may have a good result but if you say it sucks dont give up try a chassis it really would make a difference





Ty

I know about the carbon dust, bk uses it in multiple places to make certain parts stronger. I am able to race with him on a weekly basis. He has been running the longer chassis as well and his car looks awesome. I need to check with him to see how much longer it actually is.

Three cars with the same , all three set a personal best with longer ....
Oyeah ....



Wheres that guy that said the car would handle horrible ?

We(Trcr) are experimenting with a longer car just cus we heard the team driver were too ...

The way we went about only took about thirty minutes to complete .

I am not claiming this is the best way to extend the wheelbase.


But we did go faster with longer tonight , that's the important fact I'm sharing with you guys ....


We

pushed the ft caster hub forward 4 x .030

rear arms back 4 x.030

also

switched to a 84 spur gear to help move the motor back over the rear arms

hmmm...thats just over 6mm longer.

Are the rear hub carriers generic to the B4.1/T4.1 & B44.1?
Need to replace the ones on my T4 so an upgrade is needed. However I can only find the B44 http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...luminum/Detail.

What difference will it make from zero toe-1.5? only ever ran the ones that came in my original FT T4 kit.

Generally the more toe that you run, the more traction you will have, something to experiment with. The newer hubs have a larger outer bearing as well, so you will need to get these as well as a crush tube if you are upgrading.

Ok, so would 1 deg be a good start? and whats a crush tube?

Well what are you running now? If they're the stock T4 hubs, those are 0 degree. You may want to change the toe in, but each hub is about 28.99. You could try the newer toe mounts, they come in a kit of 2.5-4.0 degree incriments( I may be wrong on the exact amounts, check for b4.1 rear arm mounts). Yes, the outer bearing is a larger diamter as well, take that into account. The crush washer is the silver looking washer between the bearings that goes in the hud, it's a different thickness than the stock T4 ones. It's late and I could find part numbers for you, but it's an easy search. There is a difference with changing your toe settings via the hubs vs. the toe mounts, but changing them via toe mounts is incredibly cheaper and easier to play with.

I just picked up a b4.1 and have .5 on it, i see all the setup sheets call for 0.... Does anyone run .5?

.5 is good really depends on track, if you like the car on the slide or easily breaks traction use those but .5 has more traction but takes away steering since you cant slide around the corner...use stock for now the stock setup is perfect for many tracks.

I do