Will the AE worlds chassis work on the Be? I know it works on the nitro... but just want to make sure it works on the E car too

Yes Derek the B and Be are the exact same car. I have had 2 of each. B has motor mounts and fuel tank, Be has e mount and battery tray. All drilling is exactly the same down to the nitro engine mount holes.

The more I research this, the more I realize that track surface plays a big part in mah mileage. Are you guys running on grippy surfaces? My local track is natural dirt, loose and super bumpy. Really dusty if not watered every other heat or so as well. I think this may be eating up some of my mah.

Since I stole the electronics for this buggy from my SC8e, I decided I better order up another setup. I'm going to purchase a Tekin setup for the buggy and put the CC stuff back in my SC8. I'm torn between the 2050 and 1900 though. Will I gain better efficiency if I go with a lower KV motor geared to run the same speeds as the 2200 setup I have now? Which of those two would be the better choice? Tough to choose when spending this much cash on some electronics.

I'd go with the 1900kv, it'll run cooler and you'll have more bottom end if you need to clear jumps etc..............

The only thing I don't like about the rc8 is the motor mount, I had nothing but issues keeping my motor lined up with the spur at the track, it kept slipping away...... Its a good thing another rctech member was there and had an extra elite motor mount that he sold me for an awesome price...... From there on I had no problems with my rc8 and I can't wait to get back to the track, and this time I'll bring my laptop to try some diff. settings on my rx8.......

Yeah, I hate the stock motor mount. I had an Elite mount in my SC8e so I moved it into the RC8e as well.

Hey guys!

So I'm halfway through a breakdown/rebuild of my RC8be, I'll be switching back to Associated gaskets and getting some Yamabond and the new clear O-Rings, and got my Grid motor mount rigged up

Just a few things...

1. My center diff seems EFFED up, its still all together and sealed, but there is SO much play between the outdrives if you wiggle them from side to side Anyone seen this?

2. How are you guys measuring droop? Right now I've set my ride height around 30mm, and I limited the amount of droop in the front and rear just by eyeballing it, which seemed to have amazing results as far as stability at high speeds... I've noticed you guys saying that the new Worlds mods have more droop and this kind of scares me, I feel like my car gets high centered and just wants to spin... Also a few pages back someone seemed to assert that maybe my droop settings were causing premature wear of my front tires... Anyone got the dirty detes on droop settings?

3. I installed the steering rack with adjustable Ackerman and shorter steering linkages, and it seems that I've lost quite a bit of overall steering throw... The thing that concerns me the most is that with the new rack, my front tires toe-in changes dramatically as you move through the suspension travel... Anyone have experience with these racks? I'm considering going back to the kit's stock steering rack, any help is appreciated...

4. Team GRID: LOVING this mount. Perhaps too much, I can't seem to stop showing off how easy it is to my friends hahaha. That being said, I'm sure I'll wear out the little metal ears that secure the plate, they seem detachable luckily, do you guys sell replacements? Also, are you guys aware of any handling differences now that my motor sits so much higher in the car? It looks to me like it might keep the motor cooler

5. Anyone running aluminum center bulkhead? For some reason I really want to see my center diff completely enclosed in aluminum rather than plastic on one side, but I can only seem to find an Integy aluminum bulkhead and I've heard that Integy is crap, any thoughts?

Thanks!

5. Yes Integy is not the best brand, but the alu bulkhead seems to be working fine in mine.

I finally got my rc8be DIALED! Im running a tekno v4 chassi/traktion clutch/AKA gridirons or impacts--(hooking up) MMM/1800 on 5s 3300mah 40c sky lipos(awesome batteries) and have been testin some new dual stage shock pistons, thes puppies are awesome, especialy on bumpy track. They dual stage pistons are a one of a kind design. Although there not availible yet, they will be soon at rcshox.com. FYI, i have nothing to do with the product other than testing it.

Anyone running the Worlds upgrade chassis and Susp. Kit? I installed mine for a race two weeks ago and man the buggy worked great. I don't have the new bars but have max droop I can get and it handles great!

where did you order ?

http://stores.ebay.com/AATSCO

He has some of the worlds parts and chassis but looks to be out of the susp. kit.

Glad to hear you got it installed. The locating tabs shouldn't wear out. Our prototypes are still working fine after a year. The 5mm of additional height has no effect on the RC8Be compared to its full weight. It is relatively still very close to the chassis. The components that have the most effect is the battery and the higher up items like the wing.

Please do post your set up once it is all put together.

We are not far off with the release of the GRID front bulkhead. It is a one piece unit that still allow for easy diff removal.

I finally got my body back from the painter, thank you very much for the awesome paint from Thunder at Thunder Designs. I have all of the updated suspension parts on and basically rebuilt the whole car at the same time. I took a few pics to share...and yes the battery tray does hang off the end of the new chassis but I'm not very worried about it. I'm going to run this weekend at West Coast and see how the car is different.

Grid front bulkhead?? DROOOOOL hahahaha any pictures?

this is where i got mine they may still have some.
largescaleremotecontrol.com/Associated_Suspension_Upgrade_Kit_p/89491.htm