1:10TH EP Onroad Setups & Discussions
08-29-2010 | 10:34 PM
#46
Mark Wallin
CC10 r3
Whalan
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...=1749&setup=t3
The car was better then I was (meaning if I drove better I would have finished higher
As ever feedback allways welcomed.
CC10 r3
Whalan
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...=1749&setup=t3
The car was better then I was (meaning if I drove better I would have finished higher
As ever feedback allways welcomed.
Last edited by nerdling; 08-30-2010 at 03:03 PM.
11-06-2010 | 04:14 PM
#48
11-23-2010 | 08:59 PM
#49
Name: Craig McPhee
Car: T3'11
Track: Bendigo
Race: 2010 Nats
Link: http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011
Car: T3'11
Track: Bendigo
Race: 2010 Nats
Link: http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011
03-06-2011 | 03:49 PM
#50
Name: Craig McPhee
Track: Kambah ACT
Race: 2011 ACT Titles
Link: http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011
Track: Kambah ACT
Race: 2011 ACT Titles
Link: http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011
03-06-2011 | 04:59 PM
#51
Sorry but from my experience this is wrong. I ordered 2 pair of each and have a set of 8 and 10 spares as I use both pair of 6mm on the steering links end of the knuckle and on the servo saver and I use the 8mm front and 10mm rear. I use the open ball joint ends for the wheel ends of the camber links and the closed ball joints everywhere else. With a little shaving of the rear open ball joint ends you can fit 5mm of shim under the rear wheel to really lock in the back end especially if you are using a gear diff.
You can use 6mm front if you run no shim and you can use 8mm rear if you run less than 3mm of shim there. Any less thread and you will find out the hard way that the knuckle and the toe block can break easily. i will post a pic later as i was a victim of this on the weekend as i left the 8mm ball end in and used a 1.5mm shim and my car broke when hit by a racing incident on the first corner of the 2nd A main
You can use 6mm front if you run no shim and you can use 8mm rear if you run less than 3mm of shim there. Any less thread and you will find out the hard way that the knuckle and the toe block can break easily. i will post a pic later as i was a victim of this on the weekend as i left the 8mm ball end in and used a 1.5mm shim and my car broke when hit by a racing incident on the first corner of the 2nd A main
It's also something to consider on the front of the car, if you use the studs you should compensate for the added height by removing the 1mm shim on the knuckle.
07-10-2011 | 11:24 PM
#52
09-26-2011 | 10:13 PM
#53
Last edited by OLD 69; 09-26-2011 at 10:54 PM.
09-26-2011 | 10:22 PM
#54
Also you were using H front and L rear i believe
Craig McPhee
FEMCA ISTC Whalan
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011
09-27-2011 | 03:42 AM
#56
How important is balance? Zero timing has reduced the car weight down to 1400g and im finding the car is favouring the lipo side a little more. This is on my t2009 with exotek chassis. Is the t3 chassis much better than the 009 as far as balance and lipo friendly design?
09-27-2011 | 05:41 PM
#57
Hope that helps
10-01-2011 | 04:49 PM
#60