I)arkness

iTrader: (7)

hey guys,

anyone got tips for setup on low traction, asphalt and technical track, im really struggling to get a setup.

im running T2 008. cant get rid of oversteer, ive got all three happening mid corner- under brakes, off power and then on power.

if you have a setup that will eliminate this, that would be gladly appreciated.

cheers

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

Worlds setups from Alex and Paul.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...=1634&setup=t3

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...=1659&setup=t3

TOM NAVY

iTrader: (6)

Has any one used an EXOTEK chassis with there t2009 is there any improvment over the standard chassisor are they just a gimmik and i should i just stick with standard xray chassis
thanks for any advice
CHEERS

vazzo

iTrader: (101)

I'm running the car with the exotek chassis and I found it to be a lot better than the standard chassis, plenty of flex. I didnt set it up but it has some hardcore grip now, going through tyres like theres no tomorrow. I'm also running the gear diff and lipo pads with eu top deck. Very happy with it.

TOM NAVY

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Vazzo i was wondering about gear diffs aswell ,you can answer my question I have a large number of spare belts for my 09, if i change to the 38t gear diff will i have to buy new belts? Also do you change the front pulley to 38t as well? Do you have to change the center pulley to. I think the answer is yes to all these questions but in not sure, i have only just started to race rc . Your 09 is exactly what i want to upgrade my car to.
Thanks for you advice
"XRAY WEPONS OF SPEED"

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

Yes you change the Belts and use 38T diff and front pulley. If you want a gear diff, they make a 34T one and you can still use your belts now

vazzo

iTrader: (101)

I actually run an Atomic VM-067 VM2 mini Gear Diff (off ebay, LINK) which fits right in with no mods (34t) so I can keep all original rollouts etc. I run 50 weight shock oil in it and I put 50mm ECS drive shafts in rear, you need the shorter drive shafts. It runs super sweet. Ill see what other setup changes were made to the car and I'll post em up.

TOM NAVY

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Vazzo and Yokomo Ant3 i was not aware that there was a 34 tooth version. I just orded one. If you could post any other mods Vazzo that would, help me alot.
Thanks again guys.

mattyau

iTrader: (7)

A few questions in regards to a gear diff

What is the advantages over a ball diff is it just less maintenance.

Would it be worth putting it in running 21.5.

Could i place the existing ball diff into the front to replace the spool would that be beneficial for making the car easier to drive on Asphalt.

So basically the only changes needed would be to purchase some 50mm drive shafts .

fleetmaster

iTrader: (16)

I believe it's just a maintenance thing, yes, with more consistent feel over time.

Probably not, more of a benefit for mod/10.5 from what I understand.

Placing the ball diff up front will give you better turn in / off power steering, but will cost you some on power drive / steering. Though not really a problem in a 21.5 car.

mattyau

iTrader: (7)

Cheers fleety

mattyau

iTrader: (7)

To run the closed composite ball joints #302661 do you need to have these size ball ends
Ball end 4.9mm with thread 8mm for the front #302654
Ball end 4.9mm with thread 6mm for the rear #302653

Tho when you build the kit per manual for eu spec there
14mm screws on the front and 10mm on the rear so im guessing the ball ends they would be the same length.

OLD 69

iTrader: (44)

Yes you will need the Ball Ends you have mentioned.

...Ari

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

Sorry but from my experience this is wrong. I ordered 2 pair of each and have a set of 8 and 10 spares as I use both pair of 6mm on the steering links end of the knuckle and on the servo saver and I use the 8mm front and 10mm rear. I use the open ball joint ends for the wheel ends of the camber links and the closed ball joints everywhere else. With a little shaving of the rear open ball joint ends you can fit 5mm of shim under the rear wheel to really lock in the back end especially if you are using a gear diff.

You can use 6mm front if you run no shim and you can use 8mm rear if you run less than 3mm of shim there. Any less thread and you will find out the hard way that the knuckle and the toe block can break easily. i will post a pic later as i was a victim of this on the weekend as i left the 8mm ball end in and used a 1.5mm shim and my car broke when hit by a racing incident on the first corner of the 2nd A main

If you want to take it a step further use the Losi foam things to keep all the dust and dirt out.

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

Here is my set up sheet from Last weekends SA state titles. Only 0.2 off the very well set up MI4LP of Chris Sturdy especially with the pressure cooker Hack driving of myself.

Any set up tips are appreciated. i had a little excessive tyre wear on the front which may be a roll centre change but dont tell me to get rid of the anti dive and 6 degree caster in the front as it works like a treat

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...=1747&setup=t3