Sorry if this has been posted before, but I did search and I did skim through this thread, but does anyone have a complete list of the new worlds part list for the rc8? Thanks

http://teamassociated.com/news/lates...Upgrade_Parts/

Thanks alot, is it essential to get all the parts, or out of the options what are the best parts to upgrade the rc8 to? Thanks once again

I would say the towers and arms then the chassis and b-plate.

Got a bit of a mechanical question for anyone:

I'm going to be tearing my car down tomorrow for a nice cleaning & diff / suspension maintenance. I have some parts I ordered to replace (bent a dog bone, some screws, etc...) nothing really major.

Although, as soon as I was done running I noticed only the front wheels were engaging and the back... nope. They were just free spinning.

I suspect a center diff. issue, but not sure yet. Any ideas what to keep an eye out for?

Thanks!

Check the rear center dog bone cups. Forgot what they are called but I know there's a locking screw and if it comes out or loose you will loose power to that diff.

I think I know what you're talking about. The set screws on the drive axle going from the center diff to the rear diff, yes? I'll take a look at that. The front one worked lose first time I fired her up. I put some red loctite on that sucker and it was never a problem again. I'm not sure if I did the rear.

Good point. I'll check it out.

Hello all,

Now that the AE new towers and modified arms are out now, we have been testing our prototype conversion kits and may still release them.

Whats different about ours?

The conversion will have the same suspension geometry as the new AE kits but with some added tuning features. Firstly, it uses the stock arms with no modification. Since the old arms are so readily available, it simply makes sense. The other thing about using the stock arms, is the ability to replace them in a breakage at the track without modifying them.

The new towers also have extended shock mounting holes so you can tune for hard clay surfaces to high bit surfaces.

Pics to be posted soon once we get the pre-production units made up.

Team GRID

is the rear dog bones spinning? check all pins that connect dogbones to outdrives and pins to the 17mm hexes

So the 2wd SC class is dwindling locally and I decided to step up and run a class that had more entrants. Still running 4wd SC, but 1/8 buggy looked fun and really competitive.

I picked up a used RC8 roller for cheap a couple of weeks ago. Received it, tore it all down, went through all diffs and bearings, cleaned it up, upgraded it to "B" specs and installed my MMP/2200kv Castle system from out of my SC8e into it.

Ran today for the first time. Need to make some changes to the setup regarding shock oil and swaybars, but I placed 2nd in the 15min A-main against some sponsored locals. I even made a fake pit stop to make it fair to the nitro guys. I'm pretty pumped up. I used 15/46 gearing and a GensAce 5000mah 4s. I was worried I wouldn't make it the full 15mins at full race pace using this pack, but it surprisingly did. I just took it off the charger, and the pack took 5043mah back into it. Resting voltage before the charge was 14.1. I'm guessing I was pretty close to LVC by the end of the main, which I had lowered from 3.4/cell to 3.2 volts right before the main in hopes to make it. I think I can go to a 14t pinion to give some more pack headroom, since I had power to spare and was the only guy on the track that could clear a big set of triples in a field of nitros. I was also pulling away from them pretty hard in the straights. Also, when I temped the electronics after the run, the MMP was at 126 degrees and the motor was just under 160.

Is this the type of results you other guys using similar setups are getting as far as runtime during racing?

Here is a pic of the rig right after the main :

I get 20 min. with a 15t. My motor temps are 170 to 180. Air temp 96.

20mins with a 5000mah pack? I can't imagine wringing out another 5mins? How could I go about getting more runtime without sacrificing top end speed? I feel I already have pretty smooth throttle inputs while racing.

i get about 20 on a 4500 and 20+ on a 5000.
thats geared 19/46 with tekin 1900kv.

shredded the center diff this weekend. mugen gasket fail.
i guess i'll try just sanding a little and use ae gaskets.

I know its been said and i'll post it one more time. YAMABOND, or 3M 1196 Liquid gasket works very well on diffs. Just use stock gaskets (always sand a little on the diff) this is used in the motorcycle world and its awesome.

Depends how u drive & track but I get 20 to 25min on 5k Turnigy,Nano & Ace batts. Just try it at practice. I just added a fan to my motor & still good.
I get about a min. less per tooth as I go up in pinion.