ran my tenshock 4000kv sc401 4 pole in it today. that damn slipper is not letting me get the most out of this motor. shims and HT pads are on the way.

I HAVE ALREADY MADE A THREAD BUT I NEED TO KNOW WHAT THE BODY THAT GOES UNDER THE TRUCK BODY IS CALLED. IT COVERS THE ELECTRONICS

Please don't type in all caps. It is called an................ underbody. Part number is #91168.

I have been reading the last couple of pages with the motor debate. I currently run a LRP 550 4.5 geared at 12/63 and this thing is FAST. i ALSO RUN THE lrp spx8 speed control and it is as smooth as it can be. i did some testing with a LRP 540 5.5 and it got to hot and desodered a motor lead. but I am very happy with the 550 right now and will be sticking with that.

Having a belt pop off problem. Shimmed the front adjuster to line up better. Ran belt loose, mid and tight. Tries a new belt. Appears the front adjuster mount (plastic-why?) isnt keeping the adjuster straight as the rear one does (it is mounted on aluminum). Does anyone make a front backing plate out of aluminum?

Is it bent

I will be staying with my Murfdogg 5.5 540 motor. Temps are low and I am faster than the other SC trucks running 550's. At least for the two packs before my slipper fails. Should have my clutch basket for next week though.

From your site:
Now your dust cover will hit the slipper disc.* One solution is to heat up the cover, and stretch it a little, using a motor.* another is just cutting it out, and gluing a dust cover from a B4/T4 on it.

Why not decrease the height of the basket? It only needs to be as tall as a slipper pad.

The basket doesn't hit, the slipper disc does. I am trying to come up with a thinner solution as I would like it if there was no modifications required.

The basket has to be deep enough to hold the ss disc and both slipper pads. Mine required very little modificaiton. I used my heat gun and heated the cover up and used a motor to stretch it just a little and that is all it took. No real big deal.

I love my SC10 4x4 and have won many races lately, I am wondering if you all have had a "squeeling pig" sounds in yours. My belt looks brand new and I have a feeling it was my slipper pads but after inspection they look fine... I can deal with it but other racers cannot, maybe its an advantage....

LOL.

I did a radio check on mine last night for the first time on carpet, and I think your description of "squealing pig" sound the slipper makes is exactly spot on.

looking to get into 4x4 shortcourse...just wondering if anyone is selling some good stuff

Last nights club race didn't go as smoothly as the past week's. I had some belt issues and had a motor mount screw strip out.

As to my question, as I drive this more and get away from my past 2wd mentality I have noticed more of a solid push on the on/off power steering. Anyone else notice this on wet/loamy tracks? I am using the underdrive pulley on the front and 4x4 locked. We Have a big triple that I use the 4x4 to steady the flight of the truck, but thinking about using the clicker to get around the corners better and figuring a smooth way over the triple. This could very well just be my driving style but I still need to figure out a tighter turning radius at low speeds.

I use 7k front, 3k rear.....Could a easy fix be thicker fluid in the front?

Also, I think I want to find bearings with a lip to replace the plastic belt tensioner....Mine had black junk on it from the belt and did not spin freely.

I'm wondering if anyone could explain or point me in the direction of an explanation of what the front and rear diff fluid weights actually equate to in performance.

I see a very wide variation of front fluid weights on setup sheets and am just wondering why and when you'd want these different weights. I've been searching around and haven't found any good resources that lay it out.

Does front diff oil weight have any impact on rear traction? Right now I'm running 10k front and 5k rear and just wondering what going up in front would change. Thanks in advance.