I have had my sc10 4x4 for roughly 3 weeks. Been running it and adjusting it week to week based on my heat results. I have had no complaints with this truck. This past saturday, during one of my heats, I had my first break, after a big double, the car "stopped" still had steering, etc. But wheels were bound. Pulled off the front pulley cover and Belt had actually popped off the tensioner pully. Popped it back in.. Had no issue, until yesterday night, Had it do it again. So looks like from what i can see the tensioner pully is a now a bit loose. Not sure if i had done something wrong or not. But just thought i would pass on for you guys to check those little pulleys every now and then.

Be ok if you're just bashing, but why add weight, up high, on a race vehicle? Bodies are very heavy as it is, and the weight is in the worst place, up high. An Outwears cover from the 2wd SC10 fits decently on the 4x4 version, and keeps most of the dirt out. Its a little short, lengthwise, so it doesn't cover all of the motor or rear transmission.

Yes, I have used one for many years (body reamer) I was wondering why they didnt actually use one too and show a 100% mounted undertray.

If you will examine all the other undertrays, they seal to the side of the chassis, and have vents on the top, like the one I use on my SC10 and the dozens of others we have sold here.
I am unaware of any cooling problem, after 21 minutes of practice mine came off at 145.
In the pictures it looks like the tires are almost hitting it.
Is it a one size fita all kind of undertray and they are selling it as a SC10 4x4 specific fit?

A traditional undertray does mate along the chassis.
This allows:
1: some ventilation
2: no dirt to enter under the undertray.

Make sure you run some threadlock on the screws to the tensioner and on the screws that lock the tensioner "teeth" in place. I havent had any issues with mine but have re-threadlocked the screws after my last teardown.

Also, you are running the belt below the tensioner pulley too right?

I had this happen twice till I was told by an Associated racer that the front pulley isnt in proper alignment on some of the trucks. Looked at mine and walla, it was out of alignment by two thin shims. Shimmed it out and didnt have any more belt problems. You may have to replace the belt if it popped off being the edge of the belt gets frayed and sticky and tends to grab the pulley and flip over.

Yes sir. Belt below tensioner, that is correct. After my runs, I usually do a tear down. But, to your point, the last 2 , I had not added locktite. I will do that, hopefully that was the mistake. Belt looks good and tension is good. Again, thanks for the input

also check to see how far you might screwed the 3 long screw in, ive seen people doing that and you can see from the backplate of the pulley if the screw is hitting it and therefore throwing you pulley off balance and belt coming off.

Will do. Thanks again

I got my kit build finsihed up last night but haven't had time to hit the track yet. I made a quick shake down run in the driveway and it seems tail happy (oversteer) compared to my Jammin' SCRT10. We'll see tomorrow how it works on the track.

I've got to congratulate Associated. They seem to have stepped up with this one. Engineering is much better than past AE models. Material quality seems to be improved. The number of pre-assembled sub-assemblies really sped up the build.

So far I'm impressed. Now if I can find some sway bars!!!

Ran my truck for the first time yesterday. Truck ran great. Really easy to drive, handles very similar to my 2wd version. Needs the sway bars and I need to work with the shocks a bit. It gets a bit bouncy through the mogules where my losi was more planted.

I know it's all about personal preference, track conditions, etc., but I just swapped in the overdrive pulley in the front and really like how the truck pulls out of sweepers now; I only get oversteer when I "ask for it" with the throttle (by letting off too much).

The sway bars also helped out a great deal, as did shimming the rear ball stud (2mm for me, left the front stock).

This truck is sooo easy to drive once you get a feel for it, and as others have mentioned, it truly rewards a smooth approach to your driving vs. the classis "point and squirt" style.

Honestly, no, and ThunderbirdJunkie won't do so. If anything, he's going to put limiters in the rear shocks.

The traction is there, we just have to find it without using setup band-aids like reducing thread engagement in the shock ends and swaybars. Those just mask the issues at hand. Swaybars will be an improvement, and do help what we're trying to fight, but the big thing is they should be used to add to the truck, not correct bad behavior.
ThunderbirdJunkie crashes hard, so this shock end unscrewing thing would not be an ideal move for him.

Your too Fast bro that's why!

I had the belt jump on me and I ended up having the front pulley tensioner installed the wrong way. You should be able to slide it on and off without removing the tensioner assembly from the front and installing it backwards moves it inboard a millimeter or two. After replacing it (it was kinda chewed up) and flipping it the right way I've had no trouble 30 packs later with the same belt.