Ok, so after fussing around with this truck for a month(ish), It's starting to drive like it has a mind to be driven. After building Swaybar sets in varying thickness and shapes and mucking with camber length and roll center, I slapped a pair of double Ds (green) on the front and a set of HB beams (whatever their soft compound is) on the rear.

Started treating me like a girlfriend instead of the neighborhood bully...

Tight, well kept and ran moist indoor clay track.

Front:
Camber -2.5
3.5mm spacers under inner ball
30k dif
shock; middle/outer/40w ASC/no boots/no limiters/built emulsion
2.3mm sway
24mm ride height

Rear:
Camber -2/inner hole at hub
2mm spacers under inner ball
5k dif
shock; inner/outer/32.5 Losi/no boots/no limiters/rod end 3 turns out/built emulsion
2mm sway
24mm ride height

other:
19t front pulley
clicker locked
deglazed stock pads...
1410 at 13/62

Although it could still use a little off power steering, it has now stopped doing the Joey Chitwood every time it sees a turn...

I take it you run on a tight technical track?

That would be an understatement!

http://speedsterhobbies.com/index.ph...d=22&Itemid=29

Older pics, the layout is very different now but it gives the idea of overall size.

hey farmer, check to see if your rear a arms hit the outdrives. When I switched to no boot, 3 turns out on the shocks rod ends, the shocks allow the a arm to compress and hit the outdrives. I had to add thse limiter clips in the rear

Good call. I"m going to measure and add fuel tubing to act as a downstop. AFTER a couple more cups of coffee and some intelligent programming on the tube.

Finally got some money, bought some DE wheels and Double Dees.

Saladfork are ya out there?

I keep hearing of people having a hard time with the slipper assembly..The first page states a fix to this issue..Have you guys put the recomended extra slipper thrust washers (more than the one supplied and instructed in the kit manual) that goes on b/f the slipper thrust bearing???As the first page states a some kits had there slipper thrust spacers not machined to spec size which causes the slippers to slip excessively..Hence the need to shim (with 2 or 1 extra slipper thrust washer) in front of the slipper thrust bearing..

Another possible reason that I have noticed for those having issues with the slipper assembly is that some assembled the slipper assembly incorectly by putting the slipper thrust spacer in the wrong or opposite direction..This has caused some to melt/burn out there slipper pads and eventually destroy there slipper thrust bearings..It changes the spacing in the assembly also, causing excessive slipping and messing up the alignment of other crucial components such as the belt..

Check that the slipper thrust spacer was put in correctly during the build...It kind of sucks that you have to take out the whole slipper assembly, the motor, and other rear components to get to the spacer..It's really not all that bad to get to it though..For those having issues with there slippers, check out that SLIPPER THRUST SPACER...It's worth a try, to see if that is causing your slipper issues imo...Good luck!!

I keep hearing that this truck can be driven very similarly to the 2wd version. I have the sc10 2wd and i have got the ten scte. Totally different handling. I was wondering if it was true?

ThunderbirdJunkie finally broke a part. Broke the left side of the rear shock tower while attempting backflips off one of the doubles after racing last night
Ten Screen?

Damn phone..... ten scte

I've owned the scte, and I currently own both the 2wd and 4wd sc10...... In a sense with the clicker on it can act like a 2wd but only on jumps and braking........ But the 4x4 drives way better then the 2wd as far as turning (even better then the scte IMO)

Img I love this truck!!! Makes me so much more of a better driver than I am lol.

Thank you, I'm going to get right on that. I thought I did the build correctly, shrug, Will relay findings

My first impression/opinion

I run on an outdoor loamy, bumpy clay track with good size jumps (SCSC Titusville)

traction is low-med depends if its wet or not

My truck is 1410 CC with 15/62 gearing with MMP. I stripped out the 48p spur but I think that was my fault.

I moved shock locations in rear angled out and front shocks as straight up as possible.

stock shock oil weight

2mm handmade swaybar set up

3k front diff/3k rear diff

Ran Subcultures all around with full time 4wd.

OMG!! Truck is quick has great traction, turns on a dime. Ass end is little squirrely but not terrible,

motor temp about 150-160, oh it was 96 deg out with about 80% humidity.

Truck is so easy to drive. I had to add 3/4 oz of weight in front to balance it out for jumps.

I moved battery all the way in the rear.

Very very fun to drive. This is my first time running a 4wd and I had a blast. Drives like my FTSC10 except I have major traction. I had to call it a short day because my charger wont work on DC now.

I want to try 10k in the front diff and see how that works. I have 30k but I don't want to jump up that big before trying something in the middle first.

I cannot wait to get this thing out there again.

All the pain I been going thru made it all worth it today.

Special thanks to SaladFork for helping a brotha out!

I donnt knownif Double dees are good for the SC10 but on my T4 they are perfect except.....on blue groove very dusty, 5 packs and they are dead....