Team Associated RC8Be Thread
#6319
#6320
Wow... Haven't seen this thread clear back on page 3 in awhile...
Anyway...
I drove an RC8BE with the BCE +3 Chassis, SNR Towers, and Modified Arms last night...
Let me tell you... I WILL NOT be waiting for the AE kits to hit shelves... I'm ordering those items first thing Monday morning!
They make the car THAT much better. The car is still super consistent feeling, but this new kit makes the car MUCH more nimble... Changes directions faster, rotates better, and in general just makes the car more responsive is the best way I can describe it.
If you get the opportunity to drive a car with these parts... DO IT! You'll be amazed at how these new parts are going to change the RC8.
-David
Anyway...
I drove an RC8BE with the BCE +3 Chassis, SNR Towers, and Modified Arms last night...
Let me tell you... I WILL NOT be waiting for the AE kits to hit shelves... I'm ordering those items first thing Monday morning!
They make the car THAT much better. The car is still super consistent feeling, but this new kit makes the car MUCH more nimble... Changes directions faster, rotates better, and in general just makes the car more responsive is the best way I can describe it.
If you get the opportunity to drive a car with these parts... DO IT! You'll be amazed at how these new parts are going to change the RC8.
-David
#6322
Let me tell you... I WILL NOT be waiting for the AE kits to hit shelves... I'm ordering those items first thing Monday morning!
They make the car THAT much better. The car is still super consistent feeling, but this new kit makes the car MUCH more nimble... Changes directions faster, rotates better, and in general just makes the car more responsive is the best way I can describe it.
Thank you David for your post
keep us updated on your build.

Sorry guys I did not get to post this earleir as I was Asked
Its just been really crazy since the Nats
Originally Posted>>>
What's the difference between the bce chassis and the the chassis team associated is coming out with?
>>
Hi We use 7075 T6 Billet, that is fully CNC Machined.
Where the Oem company's use Alclad, and they are stamped out
by the thousands, The Kits need to produce many chassis at a time
where we only produce small batches, The big difference that we get from the
racers is, the longevity(Chassis Life) vs stock, and the fact they will hold the tune of the
set up much longer Ie;tweak, bending etc. and usually we come in lighter
than most of the stock chassis.just due to our extensive lighting programs.
Hope this Helps..
Here are some pics of our A/E Pro Chassis, World X, & E-line R8E,RC8T Truggy


#6324
My first weekend of racing with my RC8Be. I had a push entering high speed sweeper, after talker to a few racers I'm thinking of going with 5,7,3 I ran the stock 5,5,5.
What would be a better fix for a push entering a high speed sweeper? I know slowing down would fix the problem, but other buggy's are carrying more speed.
What would be a better fix for a push entering a high speed sweeper? I know slowing down would fix the problem, but other buggy's are carrying more speed.
#6325
Tech Initiate
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 38
Regarding chargers and related equipment...
One thing to keep in mind when selecting chargers, especially when charging large cells packs, is making sure the watt rating of the chargers will allow for a decent charge. That charger that will charge up to four lipos at once is a nice charger, especially if youre only going to be charging 2s. But I think its only rated at 50 watts per port so your 4s batts will only be able to charge just under 3.5 amps. Consequently, it may take a 5000 mah battery about 1.5 hours to charge. Not to mention it is pushing the limits of the charger, and in my experience makes chargers have shorter life and definitely produce alot of heat.
Secondly, finding a good power supply that is appropriate to provide power to your chargers is very important. I dont want to get into the math but it is very simple. Just make sure you are conservative and account for any inefficiencies that will exist in the chargers. That way your power supplies can have plently of wattage to power the chargers.
That maxamps power supply is nice, but is overpriced for what you get. That supply is just a file server 12v, 47 amp supply. I can almost gurantee its not a new unit, as they are very expensive new. One can find a good supply on ebay that is the same one as the maxpamps for around 20 dollars. Or you can buy a supply from a guy named feather merchant rc (just google his name) and you can obtain two of those supplies for the cost of one of the maxamps. This is the route I took....Ill show pics at the bottom. File servers are great supplies though. They provide a clean, very well regulated dc source, that is designed to run 24/7.
Bottom line, think about what will work for you and what you will be charging most of the time. Then go from there.
Heres my setup.




I have 3 - iCharger 208b's ran off 24 volts. These chargers can do 20 amps but I will never charge at that rate. Usually I charge at 10 amps for all my batteries (I use 2s, 3s, and 5s). I wired 2 - 12 volt supplies in series for 24 volts at 47 amps. Mounted them in a case under some lexan. Then I added a couple of flush mount banana jacks for 12 volt and 24 volt availability and a few fans to circulate air. I love this setup because at the track I dont have to fiddle with setting up chargers or having my charging equipment loosely thrown in a tool box like I see so many do. I also put in a flush mount iec receptacle in the back of the case. Makes things nice, just plug in the case and its all ready to go, and my batteries and pigtails are stored nice and cleanly.
One thing to keep in mind when selecting chargers, especially when charging large cells packs, is making sure the watt rating of the chargers will allow for a decent charge. That charger that will charge up to four lipos at once is a nice charger, especially if youre only going to be charging 2s. But I think its only rated at 50 watts per port so your 4s batts will only be able to charge just under 3.5 amps. Consequently, it may take a 5000 mah battery about 1.5 hours to charge. Not to mention it is pushing the limits of the charger, and in my experience makes chargers have shorter life and definitely produce alot of heat.
Secondly, finding a good power supply that is appropriate to provide power to your chargers is very important. I dont want to get into the math but it is very simple. Just make sure you are conservative and account for any inefficiencies that will exist in the chargers. That way your power supplies can have plently of wattage to power the chargers.
That maxamps power supply is nice, but is overpriced for what you get. That supply is just a file server 12v, 47 amp supply. I can almost gurantee its not a new unit, as they are very expensive new. One can find a good supply on ebay that is the same one as the maxpamps for around 20 dollars. Or you can buy a supply from a guy named feather merchant rc (just google his name) and you can obtain two of those supplies for the cost of one of the maxamps. This is the route I took....Ill show pics at the bottom. File servers are great supplies though. They provide a clean, very well regulated dc source, that is designed to run 24/7.
Bottom line, think about what will work for you and what you will be charging most of the time. Then go from there.
Heres my setup.




I have 3 - iCharger 208b's ran off 24 volts. These chargers can do 20 amps but I will never charge at that rate. Usually I charge at 10 amps for all my batteries (I use 2s, 3s, and 5s). I wired 2 - 12 volt supplies in series for 24 volts at 47 amps. Mounted them in a case under some lexan. Then I added a couple of flush mount banana jacks for 12 volt and 24 volt availability and a few fans to circulate air. I love this setup because at the track I dont have to fiddle with setting up chargers or having my charging equipment loosely thrown in a tool box like I see so many do. I also put in a flush mount iec receptacle in the back of the case. Makes things nice, just plug in the case and its all ready to go, and my batteries and pigtails are stored nice and cleanly.
#6326
Not to hijack this thread but i have a Fioroni Front/Rear diff for sale for an RC8
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ferential.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ferential.html
#6327
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 48
I have dabbled in 1/10, 1/8 and now I want to try Helicopters now. I am thinking of selling (for the right price) my RC8Be.
What's all included:
RC8Be in very good condition!
Mud guards
front skid plate
NEW Tekin 1900kv
Like new Tekin Rx8
Traxas receiver and radio
Tekin Hotwire
Used Body
95% new Mx2 revolvers mounted
40% Mx3 calibers
2 5000 mah 4cell turnigy hard case
2 5000 mah blue lipo 2 cells hard case
1 plug to run the above batteries together
2 extra spur gears
a few pinions
a extra diff case
all the fluids
dynamite tool kit
and a few extra other stuff.
How much could I ask for this stuff?
Anyone care to make me an offer?
What's all included:
RC8Be in very good condition!
Mud guards
front skid plate
NEW Tekin 1900kv
Like new Tekin Rx8
Traxas receiver and radio
Tekin Hotwire
Used Body
95% new Mx2 revolvers mounted
40% Mx3 calibers
2 5000 mah 4cell turnigy hard case
2 5000 mah blue lipo 2 cells hard case
1 plug to run the above batteries together
2 extra spur gears
a few pinions
a extra diff case
all the fluids
dynamite tool kit
and a few extra other stuff.
How much could I ask for this stuff?
Anyone care to make me an offer?
#6328
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,030
From: Albany, NY
My first weekend of racing with my RC8Be. I had a push entering high speed sweeper, after talker to a few racers I'm thinking of going with 5,7,3 I ran the stock 5,5,5.
What would be a better fix for a push entering a high speed sweeper? I know slowing down would fix the problem, but other buggy's are carrying more speed.
What would be a better fix for a push entering a high speed sweeper? I know slowing down would fix the problem, but other buggy's are carrying more speed.
5,7,3 is a good start. I personally brough down the front suspension out to the outter hole on the A-arms, the rear to the inner, lowered the front down one hole and the rear down 2.
My camber is at -1.5 degrees and I decided to toe in 1 degree.
Also, tires tires tires. Can't stress that enough. My set up isn't completely dialed in yet, but I felt I had some more bite with this.
#6330
My first weekend of racing with my RC8Be. I had a push entering high speed sweeper, after talker to a few racers I'm thinking of going with 5,7,3 I ran the stock 5,5,5.
What would be a better fix for a push entering a high speed sweeper? I know slowing down would fix the problem, but other buggy's are carrying more speed.
What would be a better fix for a push entering a high speed sweeper? I know slowing down would fix the problem, but other buggy's are carrying more speed.



