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Old 06-06-2011 | 05:53 PM
  #2896  
lip
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Default Rear CVA bone and coupler

Just a heads up for anyone who runs into this problem...I had the rear end together after page 20 and noticed that the left side drive line was binding...luckily this was not the front so taking it all apart was not bad.
After a lot of playing around with the parts and checking tolerances I found that the rear CVA bone hollow part where the coupler goes in was out of tolerance so it was not letting movement go in one direction because the coupler was binding inside. I had to scrape out inside the hollow bone and cleared it up enough so movement was possible...
This was not the first time I came across parts of this kit that were out of tolerance and caused me to go back and trim things up...

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Old 06-06-2011 | 05:54 PM
  #2897  
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Default Do not put CA on the wheel hex pin

I followed the first page and used the above suggestion...big mistake if you need to get it off again...
I would avoid that as I spent a lot of time trying to get that pin out on both sides to correct a problem I found later on.
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Old 06-06-2011 | 05:58 PM
  #2898  
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Originally Posted by turbowop
Yup, that's them. Though I purchased mine on Ebay during the winter for about $60 shipped for the set of four.
Thanks mate the link was for reference now I will run after the good deal
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Old 06-06-2011 | 07:06 PM
  #2899  
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Default ShoeGoo

Originally Posted by lip
I followed the first page and used the above suggestion...big mistake if you need to get it off again...
I would avoid that as I spent a lot of time trying to get that pin out on both sides to correct a problem I found later on.
I use a small dab of shoegoo on the pin. It is easy to remove but will hold the pin in place. This should solve the problem.
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Old 06-06-2011 | 07:23 PM
  #2900  
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Originally Posted by grubster
I ran a 4.5 Tekin 550 with an LRP sxx TC 2 speedo this weekend at our state race and my new truck performed very well. TQ and Win first time out. I had all the power I wanted, but it was smooth and controllable. The combo will be staying in my truck..
Thanks I will be going with the 4.5 tekin 550 also then. I was trying to decide between 4.5 and 5.5 what gearing are you using.
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Old 06-06-2011 | 08:56 PM
  #2901  
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well...... ran outdoors for first time. loose dirt / gravel. the large hole in the associated wheels allowed the rears to FILL with dirt and small pebbles. have holes in tires also but rocks are under foams. brand new set of caliber 2.0's and blue closed cell foams. will be cutting apart to remove rocks and glue back together. heard other guys claim their tires are ruined after getting rocks in them. however I have used this technique in the past to replace foams on otherwise good wheels/ tires. will document this process with pics if anyone is interested in how to save your tires.
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Old 06-06-2011 | 09:06 PM
  #2902  
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Originally Posted by AccessRacer
Is everybody staying with 3k in the diffs? What about on a loose dirt outdoor track? Thanks
im running 10k in the front and 5k in the back and it really makes a good difference driving it.
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Old 06-06-2011 | 09:22 PM
  #2903  
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Originally Posted by seniorskywalker
well...... ran outdoors for first time. loose dirt / gravel. the large hole in the associated wheels allowed the rears to FILL with dirt and small pebbles. have holes in tires also but rocks are under foams. brand new set of caliber 2.0's and blue closed cell foams. will be cutting apart to remove rocks and glue back together. heard other guys claim their tires are ruined after getting rocks in them. however I have used this technique in the past to replace foams on otherwise good wheels/ tires. will document this process with pics if anyone is interested in how to save your tires.
Please teach me this as I like my stock Losi tires but the foams are mush.

I also have a question for you guys and apologize if it's been dealt with as I don't feel like reading the whole thread. We had a guy at our track today all happy to run his toy only to see the shock come apart after about 3 laps. Is there an issue with the shocks not being built correctly? It looks to me like the screw through the piston backed out. I felt bad for the guy and promised to look into it. Thanks guys.
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Old 06-06-2011 | 09:33 PM
  #2904  
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Default RX8 with 1410 3800kv

Just got my RX8 paired with a 1410/3800kv motor.
Would like to see ESC settings (Timing, limiter, brakes, etc) and gearing info from guys who have run the same setup.
I wanted to start with good base setup and adjust form there.
I started with 20/93 for the gearing.
I will switch to 32P if the 48P does not work out.

thanks
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Old 06-06-2011 | 09:34 PM
  #2905  
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Ran the truck in its first race this weekend and was very happy to take first place. The truck has a great ability to turn in both on and off power, unlike the losi and OFNA trucks. I was also the only one using a 540 sized motor in the whole class. A 6.5 Ballistic with 12* of timing in the motor and 30* more in the spedo using full time sensored mode gave me the same top end as my two closest competors that wrer running 4.5 550's. It was also a power hugry setup that required the use of a 5300mah 65c Thunder Power battery for a 8min main. Only complaint I had was the preassembled shocks let the screw for the piston back off and fall apart.
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Old 06-06-2011 | 09:39 PM
  #2906  
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Originally Posted by metalflakeking
Ran the truck in its first race this weekend and was very happy to take first place. The truck has a great ability to turn in both on and off power, unlike the losi and OFNA trucks. I was also the only one using a 540 sized motor in the whole class. A 6.5 Ballistic with 12* of timing in the motor and 30* more in the spedo using full time sensored mode gave me the same top end as my two closest competors that wrer running 4.5 550's. It was also a power hugry setup that required the use of a 5300mah 65c Thunder Power battery for a 8min main. Only complaint I had was the preassembled shocks let the screw for the piston back off and fall apart.
See my post above. Is anything being done for people that have bent shafts and springs due to this?
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Old 06-06-2011 | 09:54 PM
  #2907  
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Originally Posted by seniorskywalker
well...... ran outdoors for first time. loose dirt / gravel. the large hole in the associated wheels allowed the rears to FILL with dirt and small pebbles. have holes in tires also but rocks are under foams. brand new set of caliber 2.0's and blue closed cell foams. will be cutting apart to remove rocks and glue back together. heard other guys claim their tires are ruined after getting rocks in them. however I have used this technique in the past to replace foams on otherwise good wheels/ tires. will document this process with pics if anyone is interested in how to save your tires.
When i use the stock wheels, (have not yet b/c i am waitng for better tires to get in stock) would a piece of electric tape fix that issue??I think someone posted a while back a simple fix to this potential problem..Anybody have a remedy??
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Old 06-06-2011 | 10:21 PM
  #2908  
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
Has anyone noticed the out drives getting sloppy in the diff gear housing. My cups are starting to develop a lot of movement. The o-rings seem to be sealing the fluid still but this stuff is so thick it take weeks to leak out anyway.

Any thoughts on this? Maybe AE did not grease the shafts when assembling the diffs?
same here. out-drives have a lot of play. I have to refill my rear diff often cause of it
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Old 06-06-2011 | 10:52 PM
  #2909  
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Originally Posted by Buzz3
Please teach me this as I like my stock Losi tires but the foams are mush.

I also have a question for you guys and apologize if it's been dealt with as I don't feel like reading the whole thread. We had a guy at our track today all happy to run his toy only to see the shock come apart after about 3 laps. Is there an issue with the shocks not being built correctly? It looks to me like the screw through the piston backed out. I felt bad for the guy and promised to look into it. Thanks guys.
Yep, this is common. Never assume that preassembled stuff is preassembled properly. Even though ThunderbirdJunkie tightened his up, the screws came apart...the only real solution is to disassemble them completely, clean em up, and loctite that screw.
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Old 06-07-2011 | 12:02 AM
  #2910  
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Darn this thread and it's ideas!!

Probably gotta put something in front of it to keep debris out... I got til Thursday night to make a deflector....
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