Team Associated RC8Be Thread
05-25-2011 | 12:07 AM
#6138
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 202
From: CALIFORNIA
05-25-2011 | 05:12 AM
#6139
Tech Regular
iTrader: (25)
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 415
From: Michigan
Id recommend the 1900. It's what I have, and im very pleased with it. You can gear it low for less speed, or gear it high (19 or 20) and have plenty of top end for indoor or outdoors.
However, I race with a guy who has a 1700, and hes faster than me by about a second, but he doesnt use that outdoors.
However, I race with a guy who has a 1700, and hes faster than me by about a second, but he doesnt use that outdoors.
05-25-2011 | 06:12 AM
#6140
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,030
From: Albany, NY
Id recommend the 1900. It's what I have, and im very pleased with it. You can gear it low for less speed, or gear it high (19 or 20) and have plenty of top end for indoor or outdoors.
However, I race with a guy who has a 1700, and hes faster than me by about a second, but he doesnt use that outdoors.
However, I race with a guy who has a 1700, and hes faster than me by about a second, but he doesnt use that outdoors.
Read the "Pro Tip". Most pro's actually change pinion choice up or down before they even adjust anything else on their car in attempts to get it under control, more torque, etc....
I figured this was relevent to the pinion choice advice as well as all of the questions and discussion relating to rear-end control issues.
05-25-2011 | 06:40 AM
#6141
Few ideas:
1. Your on/off switch isn't mounted in the hotest location and knocking off after jumps (although I'm going to assume you would have realized that already).
2. Check the holes on the bottom of the TEKIN. If it has 3 that is the older RX8 model. They had issues with the circuit board having a bad connection. Contact TEKIN and they will replace it for you.
3. Check all of your solder connections.
4. What kind of connectors are you using from the ESC to the battery? They could be a culprit as well.
It's most likely one of these suspects.
You might want to subscribe to the TEKIN thread for these questions. Randy is really good about helping people with their TEKIN gear. He can hook you up.
Buon giorno!
1. Your on/off switch isn't mounted in the hotest location and knocking off after jumps (although I'm going to assume you would have realized that already).
2. Check the holes on the bottom of the TEKIN. If it has 3 that is the older RX8 model. They had issues with the circuit board having a bad connection. Contact TEKIN and they will replace it for you.
3. Check all of your solder connections.
4. What kind of connectors are you using from the ESC to the battery? They could be a culprit as well.
It's most likely one of these suspects.
You might want to subscribe to the TEKIN thread for these questions. Randy is really good about helping people with their TEKIN gear. He can hook you up.
Buon giorno!
Last edited by ovalracer1m; 05-25-2011 at 08:05 AM.
05-25-2011 | 09:49 AM
#6145
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,030
From: Albany, NY
05-25-2011 | 01:59 PM
#6148
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 231
update parts
So still no suspension stuff, but I got the low b plate today. After quick looking at it and the instructions, all I can say is "get it together associated" I know the economy is still on cheap skate..but now I have to run a machined old arm for the suspension upgrade, then I have to dremel it out underneath to get the droop it needs too.. Just seems kind of ridiculous they aren't producing a new arm right from the start for this. Between all the grinding and cutting for the, suspension, wing mount, now the b plate.. The "b" has to be hacked to perform, not going over good...
05-25-2011 | 03:45 PM
#6149
Okay guys, does anyone have any tips on how to get the diffs to stop blowing up?
I have had to replace all three (at one point or another) due to the gears "locking up" even after proper rebuilding a few different times in efforts to fix it.
Each time i tear them down all the gears look normal and do not have any chipped or missing teeth in them.
Do these things just stop functioning once they wear to a certain point? How often are you guys replacing the housings / internals on your diffs?
Thanks,
Robby
I have had to replace all three (at one point or another) due to the gears "locking up" even after proper rebuilding a few different times in efforts to fix it.
Each time i tear them down all the gears look normal and do not have any chipped or missing teeth in them.
Do these things just stop functioning once they wear to a certain point? How often are you guys replacing the housings / internals on your diffs?
Thanks,
Robby
05-25-2011 | 03:46 PM
#6150
So still no suspension stuff, but I got the low b plate today. After quick looking at it and the instructions, all I can say is "get it together associated" I know the economy is still on cheap skate..but now I have to run a machined old arm for the suspension upgrade, then I have to dremel it out underneath to get the droop it needs too.. Just seems kind of ridiculous they aren't producing a new arm right from the start for this. Between all the grinding and cutting for the, suspension, wing mount, now the b plate.. The "b" has to be hacked to perform, not going over good...
I was planning on upgrading to all of the new stuff sometime next month once my current chassis / arms need to be replaced.