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Old 05-20-2011 | 05:21 PM
  #1711  
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
Not the shocks, the camber linkage, where the ballstud mounts to the shocktower, should be on the outerhole, not the inner hole.
Ok cool thanks for the info, also noticed you use the outer hole in the a-arm for the lower shock mount. Will have to make these changes. thanks again.
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Old 05-20-2011 | 05:41 PM
  #1712  
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Originally Posted by VegasHB
WTF am I doing wrong?

Got a Castle 1410 geared 12/62 w/32p and it feels underpowered and it's coming off hot as hell. I hit 190 with a 13t and hitting 145 with a 12t. Burned through a standard slipper pad and went to a high torque pad and I still feel like I have to run the slipper pretty tight.

Guys are clearing sections with ease while I feel like I need a bigger run and struggle to make it. I thought the 1410 4 pole was the cats meow but it feels small and runs hotter than most guys are seeing.

Just rebuilt my trannies, they're super smooth and it rolls well when it's not meshed with the motor.

Track is indoor clay, most guys run 21 second laps. It's a tighter track but a lot of the turns are banked sweepers.
Go up to 15/16 tooth that should solve all your problems.
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Old 05-20-2011 | 06:01 PM
  #1713  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Go up to 15/16 tooth that should solve all your problems.
Running the 15/93 on my 1410 w/mmp. Ran three straight packs through it today and came off at 170 after the third pack. esc was 135. Speed was perfect. Little faster than my 2wd with a 10.5. Only complaint is it doesn't fly level, lands nose down alot on jumps. Also was a little tail happy. Plan on trying the 19t front gear and see what that does. Im pretty happy with it for the first time out. Going to check the belt now.
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Old 05-20-2011 | 06:15 PM
  #1714  
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Hello guys,

It s my turn....first you must to know that i m a little Frenchy in Texas so by advance, sorry for my bad english

My SC is box setup, 1410 motor, servo and radio from hobby partz, lipo 2S 5000 mah 35C, gearing 13/62. Caliber M4 at all corners. Diff with 5000 front and rear.

The track is like Texas....BIG... Indoor, clay, very dusty and not too much buppy.

I don t have problem of heat but my gearing is too short and top speed not enough. I ll going to try 15/62.

In flight it was not good, nose done so i moved battery at the rear and now it s good.

Steering is crazy but i can manage that.

But i have a real problem and no way to drive, i m faster with my T4.
Rear wheels push to much, really too much so cannot put gaz after turn because U turn. Very hard to accelerate hard because the rear is totally instable, cannot go straight. Ok i m not a great pilot but a descent driver.
I think i must to change oil in my diff but wich one and wich weight.

I m sure it s a great truck but with good seeting. Actually it s horrible
But i have a big problem
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Old 05-20-2011 | 06:21 PM
  #1715  
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Default A few pics

SC10 4x4 Thread-olympus-pics-009.jpg

SC10 4x4 Thread-olympus-pics-010.jpg

SC10 4x4 Thread-olympus-pics-012.jpg

SC10 4x4 Thread-olympus-pics-014.jpg

SC10 4x4 Thread-olympus-pics-020.jpg


Yeah I know it's not the optimal choice for the track ...Sorry to all the hardcore fellas but I will be using traxxas venelion esc and motor for now, or at least until my sidewinder sct esc and 1410 come in..I will than sawp the sidewinder sct esc with the MMp esc to push the 1410....
The traxxas servo(part# 2075), works decepitvely well..I would recomend this servo as a great budget friendly servo..My buddy could not believe how fast it was turning..I think the steering and servo assembly are so efficient that you really don't need a high powered servo like most 4wd sct's need..Also, I run on a loose track so dont think it's necceasry to put such a high powered servo in it....I will replace that servo eventually to something better, but for the moment it's performing beyond my expectations...
Another reason I like this servo in this truck is that I dont really have to worry about taking it out when I clean and rinse down the truck a bit due to it's water resistant capabilities..
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Old 05-20-2011 | 06:34 PM
  #1716  
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My kit came oit of the bags with the front end partially assembled and there was a left side caster block on both the right and left side suspension setups. Basically came with 2 lefts and no rights. Im playing phone tag with ae right now trying to get a caster block.
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Old 05-20-2011 | 06:43 PM
  #1717  
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Had my first outing after work today and all I can say is wow. This is an awesome truck. I ran today on an indoor clay track(because of the rain) and did very well. I am running the MMpro w 1410, geared 14/62 32p. I had timing set to normal, no punch control, no drag brake. The hottest motor came off was 120's after nearly 15 minutes. The hottest speed control got was 109ish. This combo is great, cant wait to get it outdoors. I had 7k in front diff and 5k in rear. This truck jumped, turned, and accelerated excellent today. Cant wait for swaybars to really get this thing dialed...
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Old 05-20-2011 | 06:53 PM
  #1718  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Go up to 15/16 tooth that should solve all your problems.
Going to a larger pinion won't smoke the motor? I'm already pulling 190 degrees with a 13t.

I assume your talking about going to a 48p spur when you say 15t. So go to the 48p spur and run 15t pinion?
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Old 05-20-2011 | 07:08 PM
  #1719  
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Originally Posted by VegasHB
Going to a larger pinion won't smoke the motor? I'm already pulling 190 degrees with a 13t.

I assume your talking about going to a 48p spur when you say 15t. So go to the 48p spur and run 15t pinion?
He's saying that you're not putting enough load on the motor and it's pulling too many RPM's, which is said to cause heat issues..

may or may not be the issue but my guess is that's what he's suggesting.
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Old 05-20-2011 | 07:12 PM
  #1720  
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I'm gonna guess Marquee, that it's the camera angle that makes it look like you have a ton of toe-in on the front of your truck?
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Old 05-20-2011 | 07:19 PM
  #1721  
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I can't stress it enough for you guys to take you shocks apart and re torque the piston screws. 3 out of 4. On two kits were loose.
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Old 05-20-2011 | 07:22 PM
  #1722  
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Originally Posted by VegasHB
Going to a larger pinion won't smoke the motor? I'm already pulling 190 degrees with a 13t.

I assume your talking about going to a 48p spur when you say 15t. So go to the 48p spur and run 15t pinion?
it will have the opposite effect that you think it does. It will make you faster and the motor temp will go down.

try it out and then you'll be a believer.

get a temp gauge and monitor temps.
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Old 05-20-2011 | 07:29 PM
  #1723  
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Originally Posted by VegasHB
Going to a larger pinion won't smoke the motor? I'm already pulling 190 degrees with a 13t.

I assume your talking about going to a 48p spur when you say 15t. So go to the 48p spur and run 15t pinion?
I dont think moving up past 14 is wise if you are getting temps in the 190's at 13. Sounds like something is causing drag or binding. How is your gear mesh. I can roll my truck a good 6ft w the pinion engaged w a gentle push. It feels right. Is your belt to tight?
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Old 05-20-2011 | 07:34 PM
  #1724  
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Originally Posted by stvnmccc
I dont think moving up past 14 is wise if you are getting temps in the 190's at 13. Sounds like something is causing drag or binding. How is your gear mesh. I can roll my truck a good 6ft w the pinion engaged w a gentle push. It feels right. Is your belt to tight?
I understand the theory behind adding teeth to the pinion to bring temps down but I agree. I don't think being a couple teeth off is going to be the solution in this case.

I see it more a possability in a 2wd car/truck with a 17.5 geared like 10 teeth off. At the same time I've never had this be an issue.
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Old 05-20-2011 | 07:37 PM
  #1725  
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Try the easiest things first. It's easy to overthink. you may very well have a binding issue but I'd think you'd easily detect that.
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