RC10B4.1 FT/WC
#2701
#2702
I am using them with JC Barcodes on a indoor clay track with great results. I have the JC closed cell inserts, but have yet to use them. The Prolines seem to maintain speed in the sweepers.
#2704
#2705
Does anyone know if the B4.1(Associated 9819 Rear Motor Guard SC10 RC10 T4.1 B4.1) is a bit longer ( as in sticks out further to the left when looking from the rear) for protecting the longer brushless motors??
The B4 guard is designed for the shorter can of the brushed motor assuming that the end bell tapers off (Associated 9575 stock black plastic motor guard for the RC10 B4 Buggy)
I've got this shiny new tekin redline in a B4 and want to offer all the protection i can.
thanks all.
heading should read 'longer motor guard'
The B4 guard is designed for the shorter can of the brushed motor assuming that the end bell tapers off (Associated 9575 stock black plastic motor guard for the RC10 B4 Buggy)
I've got this shiny new tekin redline in a B4 and want to offer all the protection i can.
thanks all.
heading should read 'longer motor guard'
#2710
The Aussie dirt tracks can be a bit aggresive.
is there an aftermarket product that does a better job??
#2711
but for a few extra grams/ounces of plastic the motor guard could offer full or just more protection to the motor. just seems like it could have been extended to do the job better.
The Aussie dirt tracks can be a bit aggresive.
is there an aftermarket product that does a better job??
The Aussie dirt tracks can be a bit aggresive.
is there an aftermarket product that does a better job??
#2712
our track has a new cross over section where the cars(can) reach 3 1/2 feet in the air.
can't help but think the motor bears some of the chassis slap.
how can one get the suspension to offer the sensitivity for the track and yet cope with that massive impact??
does this bother any B4 users?
#2714
Which track are you racing on mate? What is your current setup? Any photos of the jump?
If you want to stop chassis slap at the rear, here are some tips:
- run heavier rear oil
- use smaller rear pistons
- increase rear ride height
- use a stiffer rear spring
The motor usually wont take the brunt of a landing unless you are landing very nose high. This is mainly helped by technique (timing of throttle / brake as you leave the jump) more than setup.
The motor gets a little bit of scratching from time to time on a B4, but unless you are consistently landing nose high, I wouldnt expect any damage. Our track (Keilor) is super abrasive and has quite a few jumps and Ive never had any issues.
Ray
If you want to stop chassis slap at the rear, here are some tips:
- run heavier rear oil
- use smaller rear pistons
- increase rear ride height
- use a stiffer rear spring
The motor usually wont take the brunt of a landing unless you are landing very nose high. This is mainly helped by technique (timing of throttle / brake as you leave the jump) more than setup.
The motor gets a little bit of scratching from time to time on a B4, but unless you are consistently landing nose high, I wouldnt expect any damage. Our track (Keilor) is super abrasive and has quite a few jumps and Ive never had any issues.
Ray
our track has a new cross over section where the cars(can) reach 3 1/2 feet in the air.
can't help but think the motor bears some of the chassis slap.
how can one get the suspension to offer the sensitivity for the track and yet cope with that massive impact??
does this bother any B4 users?
can't help but think the motor bears some of the chassis slap.
how can one get the suspension to offer the sensitivity for the track and yet cope with that massive impact??
does this bother any B4 users?
#2715
Hope you guys don't mind a few photos of my newly completed B4.1. I'm happy with it, and for the new guys, a few close ups might help them.
Its straight out of the box and configured exactly as the instructions recommended. I'm running a Novak HAVOC ESC with a Novak 13.5 Ballistic motor. The body is the Proline "Crowd Pleazer" which I'm told is no longer made? Not sure why, its about as clean as they come. My favorite B4 body anyway. I airbrushed Faskolor white, neon yellow and neon orange.
I'll get a weight on it today at the post office (super accurate public use scale normally in the lobby) and let you know what that is.




Its straight out of the box and configured exactly as the instructions recommended. I'm running a Novak HAVOC ESC with a Novak 13.5 Ballistic motor. The body is the Proline "Crowd Pleazer" which I'm told is no longer made? Not sure why, its about as clean as they come. My favorite B4 body anyway. I airbrushed Faskolor white, neon yellow and neon orange.
I'll get a weight on it today at the post office (super accurate public use scale normally in the lobby) and let you know what that is.




Last edited by IndyHobbies.com; 05-03-2011 at 06:23 AM.



