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Old 05-03-2011 | 06:10 AM
  #2716  
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Indy, I like the wet pavement in the pics, looks "neat"
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Old 05-03-2011 | 06:10 AM
  #2717  
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Nice job with the paint. For what it's worth, I really liked the stock setup. Has the slightest bit of push, but very predictable.
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Old 05-03-2011 | 06:12 AM
  #2718  
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I like the paint job...car looks really clean too.
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Old 05-03-2011 | 06:17 AM
  #2719  
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Looking good! Nice work
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Old 05-03-2011 | 06:25 AM
  #2720  
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Originally Posted by racer1812
Indy, I like the wet pavement in the pics, looks "neat"
If I waited for a DRY day around here to take a photo, I'd be waiting a long time!

But, it did make a neat reflection for the photos. CSX Avon Train Yard in the background.
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Old 05-03-2011 | 07:55 AM
  #2721  
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I would personally re-solder your motor wires to the other side of the tabs so the wires are tucked inside above the transmission. This will protect them and keep them from being damaged. I love the Proline bodies especially the one that comes with the kit.
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Old 05-03-2011 | 07:57 AM
  #2722  
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Just picked up a nice FT B4.1 and a FT B4.

I will be running the 4.1 and going to get the 4 ready for my boy.

I have one question. Tekin RS Pro with a 17.5? I heard it's great for stock and boosted can do great in mod class.

Both were used but in great shape with plenty of extras. And with our new indoor track in San Diego, CA now decided to try this fun class.

Thanks for any tips or info.
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Old 05-03-2011 | 08:03 AM
  #2723  
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Is the 17.5 setup for you or the kid? It works great boosted and unboosted. It's also a breeze to change trackside. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you have any setup questions.
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Old 05-03-2011 | 09:18 AM
  #2724  
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
Is the 17.5 setup for you or the kid? It works great boosted and unboosted. It's also a breeze to change trackside. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you have any setup questions.
Cool will do.

Tekin setup will be for me. I am going to put some stock SC10electronics in my boys B4 for now.
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Old 05-03-2011 | 11:49 AM
  #2725  
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69
I would personally re-solder your motor wires to the other side of the tabs so the wires are tucked inside above the transmission. This will protect them and keep them from being damaged. I love the Proline bodies especially the one that comes with the kit.
Good advice. Thanks. I'll do just that.

I've not painted the body that came with the kit yet. I had the Crowd Pleazer already so I painted it up first. I airbrush bodies on the side that I sell at the track and on ebay: http://www.indyhobbies.com/Airbrushing.html

Scott
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Old 05-03-2011 | 09:47 PM
  #2726  
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Default Quick change hubs

Whats your take on the quick change rear hubs?.. I aquired five sets of rear tires, all quick change, and wonder if I should pick up the hubs?..

Thanks, Rob.......
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Old 05-03-2011 | 11:12 PM
  #2727  
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Nice car Indy I always love the look of new buggies/trucks. That nice clean look and a fresh paint job

Robio, I don't really know as I've never used them. They seem kind of not needed in an electric class though. I take my tires off every two runs and scrub them anyways so I wouldn't think I would need them..
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Old 05-03-2011 | 11:19 PM
  #2728  
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Originally Posted by ray_munday
Which track are you racing on mate? What is your current setup? Any photos of the jump?

If you want to stop chassis slap at the rear, here are some tips:
- run heavier rear oil
- use smaller rear pistons
- increase rear ride height
- use a stiffer rear spring

The motor usually wont take the brunt of a landing unless you are landing very nose high. This is mainly helped by technique (timing of throttle / brake as you leave the jump) more than setup.

The motor gets a little bit of scratching from time to time on a B4, but unless you are consistently landing nose high, I wouldnt expect any damage. Our track (Keilor) is super abrasive and has quite a few jumps and Ive never had any issues.

Ray
Hi Ray, i'm running at Ryde in Sydney so i suspect our surface is similar.
here a link to check it out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0HpjMfZ3T4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJnCNDpyJE0&NR=1

I definately need to improve my technique and am looking forward to sme more practice. I've been shown the jump braking technique and will practice x 100.

I've got a B4 RTR kit I bought 5 years ago abd have added tekin RS and Redline 17.5.

I'm pretty sure the springs are black.

Do you recommend I buy the optional rear spring Associated Part # ASC1582
rebulid the rear shocks with 30wt oil and then experiment with different springs?

Is it worth going to the factory team shocks with the adjustable threads? I'm happy for any suggestions thanks
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Old 05-04-2011 | 03:08 AM
  #2729  
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G'day, I run a b4 at Ryde also and find the green rear springs with 25wt oil perfect, you will need to go close to this to get any traction although the new track is getting better with time as it beds in. A little chassis slap is to be expected, won't damage the car unless you really case it out hard on the motor.

Read back a few pages in this thread re discussion on Kyosho and Durango springs, apparently they are a bit more progressive so will help you out a little. I'll be trying out the ranga springs this weekend (weather permitting!) so will let you know how I go...


Jeremy


Originally Posted by daverobbo5
Hi Ray, i'm running at Ryde in Sydney so i suspect our surface is similar.
here a link to check it out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0HpjMfZ3T4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJnCNDpyJE0&NR=1

I definately need to improve my technique and am looking forward to sme more practice. I've been shown the jump braking technique and will practice x 100.

I've got a B4 RTR kit I bought 5 years ago abd have added tekin RS and Redline 17.5.

I'm pretty sure the springs are black.

Do you recommend I buy the optional rear spring Associated Part # ASC1582
rebulid the rear shocks with 30wt oil and then experiment with different springs?

Is it worth going to the factory team shocks with the adjustable threads? I'm happy for any suggestions thanks
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Old 05-04-2011 | 03:19 AM
  #2730  
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Originally Posted by IndyHobbies.com
I'll get a weight on it today at the post office (super accurate public use scale normally in the lobby) and let you know what that is.
My buggy weighed 3 lbs, 8.5 oz with a NiMH battery that I was using for testing. That's 1602 grams. Roar says minimum is 1499 grams.

How realistic is it to try to lighten it? Necessary? Do most try to get the weight down for racing?

Current ROAR Specs:



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