The New Werks B5 .21 Racing Engine
#6991
Anyone know where I can find some inexpensive bearings to put in a Werks B3? The size on werks engines seems to be non-standard and it has been tough to find some economy version replacements. My engine has about 4 gallons on it and don't want to invest too much into it to put in the better ceramics.
#6993
+1, B5 by far the easiest and fastest breakin, alittle heat cycling, a few slow tanks in the street, a few slow tanks at the track and time to start leaning enough to do all the jumps but takin it easy on the straights, and she is ready to go. I think that alot of people over do their breakins and are afraid to get them hot early, after you run it rich to blow the junk out i think heat is a good thing just not heat combined with stress
#6995
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,660
+1, B5 by far the easiest and fastest breakin, alittle heat cycling, a few slow tanks in the street, a few slow tanks at the track and time to start leaning enough to do all the jumps but takin it easy on the straights, and she is ready to go. I think that alot of people over do their breakins and are afraid to get them hot early, after you run it rich to blow the junk out i think heat is a good thing just not heat combined with stress

I have a O.S. motor that has at least 7 gallons on it and it was the hardest tightest sleeve i have ever broke in.
This engine for whatever reason was very tight, i guess i am lucky! THis engine is going to LAST!!!
I have done many breakins, and have like many tried other peoples methods (even the break in bible), and have had engines suffer because of it. It's not rocket science, the method the "werks" gives at the beginning of this thread is the closest i have seen that i actually do. Start low, tune the lsn to your idle gap, NOT the other way around. when you start leaning up top, when the engine goes rich (which they do as the more they breakin), you lean it. Really easy, especialy the bullet needles on these italian motors.
Anyway, not trying to ramble on, there is no right or wrong way, it's whatever works for you and the way you like it.
They even have a WOT method, works for some but i would never do it.
#6996
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,637
my break in took half a gallon and never went below 200. It is screaming like raped ape and still has tons of pinch. I have my method and for me it has worked better then any other suggested "method" that i have tried because of listening to people. There is no "X" amount of fuel that needs to go through a engine for it to breakin, as a matter of fact, i have found that the longer a engine takes to breakin and the tighter it is the longer it last. THe point is, the engine tells you when to lean it out and the motor DICTACTS how long it takes to break in, not the person with the screwdriver
I have a O.S. motor that has at least 7 gallons on it and it was the hardest tightest sleeve i have ever broke in.
This engine for whatever reason was very tight, i guess i am lucky! THis engine is going to LAST!!!
I have done many breakins, and have like many tried other peoples methods (even the break in bible), and have had engines suffer because of it. It's not rocket science, the method the "werks" gives at the beginning of this thread is the closest i have seen that i actually do. Start low, tune the lsn to your idle gap, NOT the other way around. when you start leaning up top, when the engine goes rich (which they do as the more they breakin), you lean it. Really easy, especialy the bullet needles on these italian motors.
Anyway, not trying to ramble on, there is no right or wrong way, it's whatever works for you and the way you like it.
They even have a WOT method, works for some but i would never do it.

I have a O.S. motor that has at least 7 gallons on it and it was the hardest tightest sleeve i have ever broke in.
This engine for whatever reason was very tight, i guess i am lucky! THis engine is going to LAST!!!
I have done many breakins, and have like many tried other peoples methods (even the break in bible), and have had engines suffer because of it. It's not rocket science, the method the "werks" gives at the beginning of this thread is the closest i have seen that i actually do. Start low, tune the lsn to your idle gap, NOT the other way around. when you start leaning up top, when the engine goes rich (which they do as the more they breakin), you lean it. Really easy, especialy the bullet needles on these italian motors.
Anyway, not trying to ramble on, there is no right or wrong way, it's whatever works for you and the way you like it.
They even have a WOT method, works for some but i would never do it.
I've seen a bunch of motors from one particular brand (not werks, lol) have a lot of mechanical pinch brand new. The irony is that they lose compression fairly quickly. To me, they are using pinch to compensate for bad metallurgy.
Would be interested in hearing Ron's take.
#6997
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,660
I am very much aware of the diference between pinch am compression. Let me rephrase for you. After over half a gallon there is lots of mechanical pinch and Ridiculous compression.
I understand some people lose compression after a couple of gallons, sometimes it happens that way you just have a looser fit which to me in my experience does not last as long as engines that have a tighter fit
I understand some people lose compression after a couple of gallons, sometimes it happens that way you just have a looser fit which to me in my experience does not last as long as engines that have a tighter fit
Last edited by dreaux; 05-02-2011 at 11:51 AM.
#6999
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,637
I am very much aware of the diference between pinch am compression. Let me rephrase for you. After over half a gallon there is lots of mechanical pinch and Ridiculous compression.
I understand some people lose pinch after a couple of gallons, sometimes it happens that way you just have a looser fit which to me in my experience does not last as long as engines that have a tighter fit
I understand some people lose pinch after a couple of gallons, sometimes it happens that way you just have a looser fit which to me in my experience does not last as long as engines that have a tighter fit
I prefer engines that can take a pretty good race tune after a few quarts. The b5 is one of those. They don't have extreme pinch brand new, but seem to hold their compression better than many brands. No need to bench race for a couple of gallons.
#7000
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,660
Why would you want pinch after a couple of gallons? You should feel mostly compression at this point. If you still feel a lot of pinch TDC, that's just a sign that the motor isn't completely broken in. That's nothing to brag about.
I prefer engines that can take a pretty good race tune after a few quarts. The b5 is one of those. They don't have extreme pinch brand new, but seem to hold their compression better than many brands. No need to bench race for a couple of gallons.
I prefer engines that can take a pretty good race tune after a few quarts. The b5 is one of those. They don't have extreme pinch brand new, but seem to hold their compression better than many brands. No need to bench race for a couple of gallons.
Dude, are listening to anything I am saying? I never said anything about a couple of gallons first off. Second, I have zero control over how long pinch last on a engine. Third, I stated that some motors take longer to break in, I also stated that it takes almost a gallon for most of my motors to wake up (in other words, so you will understand) this means being able to turn the flywheel over by hand when the engine is cold and not having any "mechanical" "pinch".
I am not going to start a flame war with anyone, this is stupid. You have your way and I have mine. Neither way is right or wrong. I respect your opinion, I don't think its to much to ask for you to respect mine.
#7003
Yea I realize that, but if I wanted a paper thin pipe I would have bought one half the price and expected that out of it. love the B5 just don't think I will buy another werks pipe.
#7004
Tech Regular
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 314
From: Sweden
If you say that some lose the pinch after a few galloon and then state that is not a good thing we assume you want it the other way around (eg. you want to keep the pinch after a few gallons).
#7005
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,660
Actually that was exactly what you said before.
Perhaps you did not mean it that way but we read it that way.
If you say that some lose the pinch after a few galloon and then state that is not a good thing we assume you want it the other way around (eg. you want to keep the pinch after a few gallons).
Perhaps you did not mean it that way but we read it that way.
If you say that some lose the pinch after a few galloon and then state that is not a good thing we assume you want it the other way around (eg. you want to keep the pinch after a few gallons).
), took F O R E V E R to break in, still has a small amount of stick at TDC after seeing alot of fuel. Even at the gallon mark it the piston would get stuck during a flame out. I will say though that sleeve now is one of the best i have ever had. Don't know how much fuel is on it now, but it holds a tune forever, and screams like crazy. The funny thing is though, most vspecs i have had lose their pinch quite fast and their compression shortly after
Love the werks!



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