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Old 04-26-2011 | 05:24 PM
  #6991  
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Default Bearings?

Anyone know where I can find some inexpensive bearings to put in a Werks B3? The size on werks engines seems to be non-standard and it has been tough to find some economy version replacements. My engine has about 4 gallons on it and don't want to invest too much into it to put in the better ceramics.
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Old 04-26-2011 | 05:52 PM
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tko is pretty cheap around 40 bucks
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Old 04-28-2011 | 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by nitroal
i have never seen a Werks motor take that long to break in. they are by far the easiest motors i have ever broken in. just ran mine this weekend and it was running very strong and come off the track at 214. outside temp of about 60.
+1, B5 by far the easiest and fastest breakin, alittle heat cycling, a few slow tanks in the street, a few slow tanks at the track and time to start leaning enough to do all the jumps but takin it easy on the straights, and she is ready to go. I think that alot of people over do their breakins and are afraid to get them hot early, after you run it rich to blow the junk out i think heat is a good thing just not heat combined with stress
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Old 04-28-2011 | 07:42 AM
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Heat should reduce stress. The hotter you get the motor, within reason, the less resistance the p/s has.
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Old 04-28-2011 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by lanmine657
+1, B5 by far the easiest and fastest breakin, alittle heat cycling, a few slow tanks in the street, a few slow tanks at the track and time to start leaning enough to do all the jumps but takin it easy on the straights, and she is ready to go. I think that alot of people over do their breakins and are afraid to get them hot early, after you run it rich to blow the junk out i think heat is a good thing just not heat combined with stress
my break in took half a gallon and never went below 200. It is screaming like raped ape and still has tons of pinch. I have my method and for me it has worked better then any other suggested "method" that i have tried because of listening to people. There is no "X" amount of fuel that needs to go through a engine for it to breakin, as a matter of fact, i have found that the longer a engine takes to breakin and the tighter it is the longer it last. THe point is, the engine tells you when to lean it out and the motor DICTACTS how long it takes to break in, not the person with the screwdriver

I have a O.S. motor that has at least 7 gallons on it and it was the hardest tightest sleeve i have ever broke in.

This engine for whatever reason was very tight, i guess i am lucky! THis engine is going to LAST!!!

I have done many breakins, and have like many tried other peoples methods (even the break in bible), and have had engines suffer because of it. It's not rocket science, the method the "werks" gives at the beginning of this thread is the closest i have seen that i actually do. Start low, tune the lsn to your idle gap, NOT the other way around. when you start leaning up top, when the engine goes rich (which they do as the more they breakin), you lean it. Really easy, especialy the bullet needles on these italian motors.

Anyway, not trying to ramble on, there is no right or wrong way, it's whatever works for you and the way you like it.

They even have a WOT method, works for some but i would never do it.
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Old 04-28-2011 | 02:31 PM
  #6996  
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Originally Posted by dreaux
my break in took half a gallon and never went below 200. It is screaming like raped ape and still has tons of pinch. I have my method and for me it has worked better then any other suggested "method" that i have tried because of listening to people. There is no "X" amount of fuel that needs to go through a engine for it to breakin, as a matter of fact, i have found that the longer a engine takes to breakin and the tighter it is the longer it last. THe point is, the engine tells you when to lean it out and the motor DICTACTS how long it takes to break in, not the person with the screwdriver

I have a O.S. motor that has at least 7 gallons on it and it was the hardest tightest sleeve i have ever broke in.

This engine for whatever reason was very tight, i guess i am lucky! THis engine is going to LAST!!!

I have done many breakins, and have like many tried other peoples methods (even the break in bible), and have had engines suffer because of it. It's not rocket science, the method the "werks" gives at the beginning of this thread is the closest i have seen that i actually do. Start low, tune the lsn to your idle gap, NOT the other way around. when you start leaning up top, when the engine goes rich (which they do as the more they breakin), you lean it. Really easy, especialy the bullet needles on these italian motors.

Anyway, not trying to ramble on, there is no right or wrong way, it's whatever works for you and the way you like it.

They even have a WOT method, works for some but i would never do it.
Mechanical pinch is different from compression. But the terms are used interchangeably. You can have an engine with a ton of pinch brand new that loses all compression after a couple of gallons. On the other hand, you could have an engine with a slight mechanical pinch that ends up holding compression for a long time. It's all about how parts fitment over the long run.

I've seen a bunch of motors from one particular brand (not werks, lol) have a lot of mechanical pinch brand new. The irony is that they lose compression fairly quickly. To me, they are using pinch to compensate for bad metallurgy.

Would be interested in hearing Ron's take.
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Old 04-28-2011 | 03:15 PM
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I am very much aware of the diference between pinch am compression. Let me rephrase for you. After over half a gallon there is lots of mechanical pinch and Ridiculous compression.

I understand some people lose compression after a couple of gallons, sometimes it happens that way you just have a looser fit which to me in my experience does not last as long as engines that have a tighter fit

Last edited by dreaux; 05-02-2011 at 11:51 AM.
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Old 04-28-2011 | 03:22 PM
  #6998  
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Had this made by one of my sponsors CENTURY SIGNS 573-364-9394

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Old 04-29-2011 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by dreaux
I am very much aware of the diference between pinch am compression. Let me rephrase for you. After over half a gallon there is lots of mechanical pinch and Ridiculous compression.

I understand some people lose pinch after a couple of gallons, sometimes it happens that way you just have a looser fit which to me in my experience does not last as long as engines that have a tighter fit
Why would you want pinch after a couple of gallons? You should feel mostly compression at this point. If you still feel a lot of pinch TDC, that's just a sign that the motor isn't completely broken in. That's nothing to brag about.

I prefer engines that can take a pretty good race tune after a few quarts. The b5 is one of those. They don't have extreme pinch brand new, but seem to hold their compression better than many brands. No need to bench race for a couple of gallons.
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Old 04-29-2011 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 071crazy
Why would you want pinch after a couple of gallons? You should feel mostly compression at this point. If you still feel a lot of pinch TDC, that's just a sign that the motor isn't completely broken in. That's nothing to brag about.

I prefer engines that can take a pretty good race tune after a few quarts. The b5 is one of those. They don't have extreme pinch brand new, but seem to hold their compression better than many brands. No need to bench race for a couple of gallons.

Dude, are listening to anything I am saying? I never said anything about a couple of gallons first off. Second, I have zero control over how long pinch last on a engine. Third, I stated that some motors take longer to break in, I also stated that it takes almost a gallon for most of my motors to wake up (in other words, so you will understand) this means being able to turn the flywheel over by hand when the engine is cold and not having any "mechanical" "pinch".

I am not going to start a flame war with anyone, this is stupid. You have your way and I have mine. Neither way is right or wrong. I respect your opinion, I don't think its to much to ask for you to respect mine.
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Old 04-29-2011 | 12:19 PM
  #7001  
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Default Pipes

Anyone have problems with the new (2010) werks pipes holding up. One race and the stinger almost ripped off because of a wreck of course but you would think $98 pipe would hold up better than that.
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Old 04-29-2011 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by duck7604
Anyone have problems with the new (2010) werks pipes holding up. One race and the stinger almost ripped off because of a wreck of course but you would think $98 pipe would hold up better than that.
If it gets hit hard enough, any pipe will break. Possibly just hit at a bad angle.
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Old 04-29-2011 | 01:08 PM
  #7003  
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Originally Posted by one8updragracer
If it gets hit hard enough, any pipe will break. Possibly just hit at a bad angle.
Yea I realize that, but if I wanted a paper thin pipe I would have bought one half the price and expected that out of it. love the B5 just don't think I will buy another werks pipe.
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Old 04-29-2011 | 01:11 PM
  #7004  
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Originally Posted by dreaux
Dude, are listening to anything I am saying? I never said anything about a couple of gallons
Actually that was exactly what you said before.

Originally Posted by dreaux
I understand some people lose pinch after a couple of gallons, sometimes it happens that way you just have a looser fit which to me in my experience does not last as long as engines that have a tighter fit
Perhaps you did not mean it that way but we read it that way.
If you say that some lose the pinch after a few galloon and then state that is not a good thing we assume you want it the other way around (eg. you want to keep the pinch after a few gallons).
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Old 04-29-2011 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Klimpen717
Actually that was exactly what you said before.



Perhaps you did not mean it that way but we read it that way.
If you say that some lose the pinch after a few galloon and then state that is not a good thing we assume you want it the other way around (eg. you want to keep the pinch after a few gallons).
crap. my fault, i meant compression. Just came back from the track, had a killer race tune and my six was hooking up well. Engine broke in nicely, still tight when cold, no biggie. When i lose the cold pinch that is usually when i stop with the preheating. Pinch after a "few gallons"? No, definitley did not mean that. I do however have a sleeve that ray pinched the crap out of for me (medium tightness), took F O R E V E R to break in, still has a small amount of stick at TDC after seeing alot of fuel. Even at the gallon mark it the piston would get stuck during a flame out. I will say though that sleeve now is one of the best i have ever had. Don't know how much fuel is on it now, but it holds a tune forever, and screams like crazy. The funny thing is though, most vspecs i have had lose their pinch quite fast and their compression shortly after

Love the werks!
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