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Old 03-31-2011 | 07:35 AM
  #5086  
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Originally Posted by GreggW
The bolts that hold the motor in place either loosen or aren't tight enough for an 8 pound buggy taking a nose dive from 5 feet in the air, which in turn trashes the $30 spur gear, usually.
+1 - I didn't even mess with the stock mount. I also dislike how the motor literally rests on the chasis. Like that pad they supply is the save all

Originally Posted by GreggW
I don't know how you guys do the snow. Crazy. I live 150 miles from it. That's close enough for me.
We have no choice I'm as sure as sh*t not moving to Cali. The only thing you guys have over the good is the weather, but now an added bonus - radiation. - I lived in San Diego for a small time and hated life.

Originally Posted by buggy8
So glad I bumped into this thread! (my bank account on the other hand )

You and me both! My bank account is over 2k gone into my stuff (but I had nothing and started from absolute scratch, including tools).

I just ordered my Grid mount, it's funny, I'm excited to put it in and try it out... it's the little things
It's a nice looking piece isn't it?

Originally Posted by buggy8
question about shock towers, center diff plate, and steering rod:

blue aluminum or carbon fiber?

I would think carbon fiber because of weight and rigidity. what do you guys think?

thanks
I think you should just replace what breaks. This buggy is expensive enough getting what's needed, and the required mod parts. Because my driving skill isn't above Novice - this choice wouldn't make a difference for me.

Originally Posted by 117
1. Do you use shock oil or green slime when installing the shock o-rings?
2. Do you use side cutters on the shock shaft threads, or do you use a shock shaft tool when installing the shock rod ends? I'm hesitant to use shock shaft pliers, as it looks like they grip the shaft, and I don't want to accidently score the shock shaft.

Getting ready to rebuild the diffs and shocks soon. Trying to decide on the setup...
I would ask Ross this question. He's got a pair of pliers that actually has a cut out in them to grip the shaft without causing any damage what so ever. I've looked for them at home depot, lowes, and I have no idea what to put for a search on the internet.

If you find out where Ross got them let me know
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Old 03-31-2011 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
1. Always use green slime
2.I actually wrap the shock shaft with a thick velcro strap I have, the use a vice grip to get a rock solid grip. i have never scratched the Tin coating by doing this.
I've also used those round rubber pickle jar openers to put a grip on the shaft. Although, I don't see many anymore.
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Old 03-31-2011 | 07:39 AM
  #5088  
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I just convert my rc8b into electric. I'm not sure what tekin motor will be use. I will be doing races this year. Can you guys help me to chose the right motor ????
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Old 03-31-2011 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Gabriel2010
I just convert my rc8b into electric. I'm not sure what tekin motor will be use. I will be doing races this year. Can you guys help me to chose the right motor ????
Most likely the 1900kV.

Originally Posted by Sarinexia
I've also used those round rubber pickle jar openers to put a grip on the shaft. Although, I don't see many anymore.
I was thinking about that. I could easily get some adhesive backed soft rubber to put on a set of smooth jaw pliers.

Originally Posted by Sarinexia
We have no choice I'm as sure as sh*t not moving to Cali. The only thing you guys have over the good is the weather, but now an added bonus - radiation. - I lived in San Diego for a small time and hated life.
Let's not start with the radiation business...right now it's so minimal that it shouldn't even be in the news...

I like Texas. Cali has nice weather, but I wouldn't want the cost of living there, and Cali seems to be one f'ed up state. The only thing that sucks about Texas is the heat in July/August can be pretty brutal. Especially when you're sitting in grid for 10 minutes with no breeze, wearing a full driving suit (nomex suit, gloves, shoes, balaclava, helmet, etc)!! Thankfully, my wife bought me a Coolsuit a few years ago for a BD present.
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Old 03-31-2011 | 07:59 AM
  #5090  
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Default Weak CVA bones

Anyone else have problems with bent CVA's? I've bent two on my RC8Te and one on my RC8Be. It always seems to be on the front. Now before you comment on my driving skill, I've had my Ve8 sinnce 12/09 and NEVER bent a single one. Has anyone tried using a different brand CVA?
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Old 03-31-2011 | 08:07 AM
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Have you looked at the suspension at full droop and full compression to see if the CVAs are binding on anything? I would suspect that's the case, and if so, new CVAs will either bend, or break whatever is causing the binding. Before upgrading or installing new CVAs, I'd see if you have a binding problem first.

That said, I haven't bent any CVAs, but I haven't spent much time on a track, yet.
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Old 03-31-2011 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 117
Have you looked at the suspension at full droop and full compression to see if the CVAs are binding on anything? I would suspect that's the case, and if so, new CVAs will either bend, or break whatever is causing the binding. Before upgrading or installing new CVAs, I'd see if you have a binding problem first.

That said, I haven't bent any CVAs, but I haven't spent much time on a track, yet.
I'll check that out, but I don't think that's it. I bent my first in my new RC8T on the first day out with it at the track.
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Old 03-31-2011 | 08:24 AM
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Both of my fronts are bent. And I keep forgetting to bend them back. Ill do that before I drive it again.
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Old 03-31-2011 | 09:08 AM
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How much stronger are the black oxide screws vs. stainless? I used a stainless screw to attach the rear chassis (FT) brace to my chassis. Bashed around the street and hit a curb at high speed - sheared the screw right off. Now I need to remove the screw remains. And before I noticed I did a few jumps and managed to rip the front body mount off the screw, d'oh!

I was foolishly trying to keep up with my son's slash. That thing is indestructible. Plus it is slower and lighter. He found it funny that mine was so 'fragile', as he put it.

j

Last edited by schnellschnell; 03-31-2011 at 09:08 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 03-31-2011 | 09:21 AM
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Stainless is weaker.
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Old 03-31-2011 | 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by blade329
Anyone else have problems with bent CVA's? I've bent two on my RC8Te and one on my RC8Be. It always seems to be on the front. Now before you comment on my driving skill, I've had my Ve8 sinnce 12/09 and NEVER bent a single one. Has anyone tried using a different brand CVA?
I cut 3mm off both front and rear outdrives. At full droop the cva's rub on the outdrives. Been running it that way for over a year and haven't had issues. And I haven't had an outdrives pop out either. U can see that the drive pin is deep in the outdrives. Worth looking at.
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Old 03-31-2011 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by schnellschnell
How much stronger are the black oxide screws vs. stainless?
stainless have upset me in the past, much softer metal.

Question Pending

shock towers: strength and weight
carbon fiber or Blue "FT" Aluminum?

I have both so purchasing them isn't an issue. any thoughts?
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Old 03-31-2011 | 09:40 AM
  #5098  
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At one point I weighed both the aluminum and carbon fiber towers and the aluminum ones were significantly heavier (sorry I didnt think to write down the actual weights). The aluminum are also stronger.
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Old 03-31-2011 | 09:41 AM
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aluminum is better in my opinion
carbon breaks on heavy impact
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Old 03-31-2011 | 10:05 AM
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I got the new worlds geometry towers in carbon 5mm in front 4 in the back.

www.snrgraphite.com
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