20LikesTeam Associated TC6 Thread
03-28-2011 | 11:46 AM
#2116
half way through my build.
what I have noticed so far;
not too happy with the spur arrangement, this is new to me.
not happy with the motor mount being raised a couple of mm off chassis,even though it has the motor brace for support. This is new to me too
cvd's bind when using grubs screws, so I didn't put the grub screws on, I gather with the sleeve, the pins not falling out anyway. I dont understand as the grub screw head is not touching anything to make it bind.
chassis was tweak free before build, now half way through have noticed a tweak. Has anyone else noticed this? I criss crossed the screw pattern for top deck tightening, but even with the screws loose, there is a tweak!!! All the coutersink screws seem deep enough into the chassis, so its not the screws protruding thats making the chassis warp. I dont understand what to do next to get rid of it. Is there a way to tweak free a chassis by yourself? just dont have an extra hand laying around
AE must of went through all the bulkheads, as I can see a freshly tapped hole, which was done AFTER anodizing. At least the newer kits will be all good.
Missing the steering bellcrank C-clip, no big deal, just need to order from amain but thats an extra 2 weeks wait as I'm outside the US and know that my LHS will not have that part.
what I have noticed so far;
not too happy with the spur arrangement, this is new to me.
not happy with the motor mount being raised a couple of mm off chassis,even though it has the motor brace for support. This is new to me too
cvd's bind when using grubs screws, so I didn't put the grub screws on, I gather with the sleeve, the pins not falling out anyway. I dont understand as the grub screw head is not touching anything to make it bind.
chassis was tweak free before build, now half way through have noticed a tweak. Has anyone else noticed this? I criss crossed the screw pattern for top deck tightening, but even with the screws loose, there is a tweak!!! All the coutersink screws seem deep enough into the chassis, so its not the screws protruding thats making the chassis warp. I dont understand what to do next to get rid of it. Is there a way to tweak free a chassis by yourself? just dont have an extra hand laying around
AE must of went through all the bulkheads, as I can see a freshly tapped hole, which was done AFTER anodizing. At least the newer kits will be all good.
Missing the steering bellcrank C-clip, no big deal, just need to order from amain but thats an extra 2 weeks wait as I'm outside the US and know that my LHS will not have that part.
I also noticed a tweak about halfway through the build. I put the car down on a flat board. Loosened the topdeck scre, pushed down on the shock towers and retorqued the top deck. Car dead flat after I did that.
03-28-2011 | 11:53 AM
#2117
chassis was tweak free before build, now half way through have noticed a tweak. Has anyone else noticed this? I criss crossed the screw pattern for top deck tightening, but even with the screws loose, there is a tweak!!! All the coutersink screws seem deep enough into the chassis, so its not the screws protruding thats making the chassis warp. I dont understand what to do next to get rid of it. Is there a way to tweak free a chassis by yourself? just dont have an extra hand laying around
03-28-2011 | 11:56 AM
#2118
That is another good point, if you mounted the servo to the mounts outside the TC and dont have it flat then install...you have a problem. Also using washers on the servo screw heads will help from twisting the mount and causing tweak.
Last edited by Verndog; 03-28-2011 at 12:09 PM.
03-28-2011 | 11:56 AM
#2119
half way through my build.
what I have noticed so far;
not too happy with the spur arrangement, this is new to me.
not happy with the motor mount being raised a couple of mm off chassis,even though it has the motor brace for support. This is new to me too
cvd's bind when using grubs screws, so I didn't put the grub screws on, I gather with the sleeve, the pins not falling out anyway. I dont understand as the grub screw head is not touching anything to make it bind.
chassis was tweak free before build, now half way through have noticed a tweak. Has anyone else noticed this? I criss crossed the screw pattern for top deck tightening, but even with the screws loose, there is a tweak!!! All the coutersink screws seem deep enough into the chassis, so its not the screws protruding thats making the chassis warp. I dont understand what to do next to get rid of it. Is there a way to tweak free a chassis by yourself? just dont have an extra hand laying around
AE must of went through all the bulkheads, as I can see a freshly tapped hole, which was done AFTER anodizing. At least the newer kits will be all good.
Missing the steering bellcrank C-clip, no big deal, just need to order from amain but thats an extra 2 weeks wait as I'm outside the US and know that my LHS will not have that part.
what I have noticed so far;
not too happy with the spur arrangement, this is new to me.
not happy with the motor mount being raised a couple of mm off chassis,even though it has the motor brace for support. This is new to me too
cvd's bind when using grubs screws, so I didn't put the grub screws on, I gather with the sleeve, the pins not falling out anyway. I dont understand as the grub screw head is not touching anything to make it bind.
chassis was tweak free before build, now half way through have noticed a tweak. Has anyone else noticed this? I criss crossed the screw pattern for top deck tightening, but even with the screws loose, there is a tweak!!! All the coutersink screws seem deep enough into the chassis, so its not the screws protruding thats making the chassis warp. I dont understand what to do next to get rid of it. Is there a way to tweak free a chassis by yourself? just dont have an extra hand laying around
AE must of went through all the bulkheads, as I can see a freshly tapped hole, which was done AFTER anodizing. At least the newer kits will be all good.
Missing the steering bellcrank C-clip, no big deal, just need to order from amain but thats an extra 2 weeks wait as I'm outside the US and know that my LHS will not have that part.
I lost my c clip when I built my car (went flying into space LOL) And I just stuck a normal e clip on there and it worked fine. Not sure what size it was as I had bought a bag of assorted sized mugen ones a while back. But its worked fine so if you have e clips you can use one of those
As for chassis tweak, make sure your chassis is flat when you tighten your motor mount to the layshaft bulkhead and then tighten that brace from under the chassis. I had built mine the first time and didnt have my car on a flat board, car was tweaked. Soon as I loosened the motor mount and tightened it on a flat board the chassis lays perfectly flat
03-28-2011 | 12:20 PM
#2121
He said the problem was still there with top deck loose indicating the issue is at chassis level. If your sure its not a thick screw head as I found, start loosening the bulkhead screws 1 at a time and carefully watch for a bent head or one that does not run true as your spinning it. From there loosen each bulkhead and check again for flatness to determine a possible bulkhead issue.
That is another good point, if you mounted the servo to the mounts outside the TC and dont have it flat then install...you have a problem. Also using washers on the servo screw heads will help from twisting the mount and causing tweak.
That is another good point, if you mounted the servo to the mounts outside the TC and dont have it flat then install...you have a problem. Also using washers on the servo screw heads will help from twisting the mount and causing tweak.
03-28-2011 | 01:03 PM
#2122
Tech Addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 586
From: Portugal
As for tweak guys the probblem is in the spur gear bulkhead doesn't fit exactly to the lenght of the spur gear shaft, you can check this by tighten both screws on the side and check if theres a movement in the bulkhead, so my first solution was to had a shim of 0,3 mm thickness and check again if theres a movement in the bulkheads when tighten them. In my car 0,3 was ok, but in a friends car it was only needed 0,2mm. My second solution was to just tight one screw in one side of the bulkhead as you can see in the next photo taken this weekend at the Portuguese Nationals. Either way use liquid thread lock on the screw.
03-28-2011 | 04:11 PM
#2123
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 678
on mine, it's 100% the motor mount. As soon as I tighten up the screws to the motor mount brace, it tweaks the chassis. Seems like I can only leave it not tightened all the way, might need some shimming under that brace. It really is a stupid mounting system, never seen it before on a touring car. The mount should be completely flat.
edit.....even though with the motor mount screws done up tight and tweak is there, once the top plate is tightened up properly, the tweak is gone. So all is good now.
Last edited by captain stacker; 03-28-2011 at 04:23 PM.
03-28-2011 | 04:55 PM
#2124
Last edited by Verndog; 03-28-2011 at 05:07 PM.
03-28-2011 | 06:16 PM
#2125
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 678
Offsetting and lengthening the motor mount is why the TC6 is now able to balance with NO weight other then battery. After you iron this out and once on the track you'll be glad they did. IMO its a great system, you just need to really watch how you approach tightening things down. This whole developement is the result of changing to lipo batteries that are lighter and not adding more weight...they call this progress I believe.
03-28-2011 | 07:08 PM
#2126
well, cvd chattering not resolved with all the aforementioned strategies tried, so I will do some testing trackside this week and if performance is greatly impacted i will contact associated 
03-28-2011 | 07:24 PM
#2127
I'm running these.
http://www.diggitydesigns.com/D3_TC5...rBlockSet.html
03-28-2011 | 08:20 PM
#2128
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 409
From: New Zealand
I doubt that will bring much resolution, it's a known issue with many TC's hence the $50.00 per axle ECS's that are out. If none of that helped possibly the fact I'm running the 6 deg. castor blocks makes a difference there...not sure.
I'm running these.
http://www.diggitydesigns.com/D3_TC5...rBlockSet.html
I'm running these.
http://www.diggitydesigns.com/D3_TC5...rBlockSet.html
ed
03-28-2011 | 08:30 PM
#2129
I doubt that will bring much resolution, it's a known issue with many TC's hence the $50.00 per axle ECS's that are out. If none of that helped possibly the fact I'm running the 6 deg. castor blocks makes a difference there...not sure.
I'm running these.
http://www.diggitydesigns.com/D3_TC5...rBlockSet.html
I'm running these.
http://www.diggitydesigns.com/D3_TC5...rBlockSet.html
03-28-2011 | 10:57 PM
#2130
