Personally i don't actually run the grubs in the cvd's
I run mod and not a had an issue yet...........

until i have posted that............

we will see lol

The servo saver tube for tc5 & tc6 are different. I had to lengthen my front and rear shocksto get proper ride height.

hey do you guys notice that when you turn while your on the throttle that the wheels vibrate alot? I realize that it's the CVA axel's. Do you guys know if there is any better one's that will prevent the vibration in the front wheel's? i heard some of the guys are running Xray CVA, do you guys know which one's they are, and would i have to do any modification to make them work? maybe you guys have a part number, or maybe there are some different ones out there. maybe some 3 points CVA axel's? i really dont know what im looking for so maybe you guys can give me some help here. Thank you!

There isn't much you can do with the stock cvds besides pull the set screw out and glue the ring which gives you 85% throw. Any more than that should be setup related anyway, there is no reason for your car to turn a 2 foot circle.

If you want a better axle and don't care how much you spend (and I would only recommend this on carpet since I don't feel it is important even on slow speed asphalt) but you can look at the Xray, you have to run mostly their hubs and maybe caster blocks but I forget the exact parts required. Litemodz has some that eliminate the chatter even at full lock but I couldn't get any within a month and to be honest, what if I broke something rare in that CVS unit and couldn't get replacement parts in a month? Xray is better on distribution, but these specific parts have been hard to come by lately as well probably due to demand.

I haven't tested the Spec-R version yet, but they are competitively priced. Last I checked they did not have a tc6 version but the yokomo ones would work and allow you to run a 5x10 bearing (and works with their diff without grinding)

Are these the Yokomo universals you are referring to?

http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_i...hb5jg8g8b4hrj0

I think he was referring to these:

http://www.spec-r.com/specrr2/module...products_id=12

Oh, OK. I misunderstood. I was thinking the Yokomo CVDs. But, he was referring to the Spec-RC universals for the Yokomo.

Thanks for clarifying.

Oh I see so o I have to do is buy 5x10 bearings and it would work

Hi!

For spec-r you need also sterring block from yokomo but it fit really badly,
so if have cnc drill flat bit 10mm you can prepare ae block

Outside bearing is 5x10x3 which come with spec-r axle, inside bearing can be 5x10x3 or 5x10x4 but it need go more to plastic, so you need cnc flat 10mm bit to made deeper hole.

Then use hex from hot bodies cyclone, don't use yokomos hex, I get one,
and it has to strong allu, it break on small screw, so it sucks ... (expensive crap).



Anyway, it is possible to do this mod but need some tools.

Regards!
m.

ps: my movie: http://www.youtube.com/abrampl#p/a/u/2/7S4OU97CN7c (there was bad url, to another mod)

Looks good, little opportunity to move the receiver closer to the center and move your on off switch on to you servo.

I have heard of losi lcd's being used on the tc5, however apparently you need to use losi steering knuckles and hubs too. Currently wheeling a losi, have a tc6 on the way and will look at converting with the losi lcd's

spec r's are crap, and break very easily.

I would also look into arrowmax double cardan cvd's made for the yokomo.

but then again, if you going to be piss farting around with so many mods, why not just buy an xray/HB that has double cardan cvd's as options to begin with haha

plus I think most of the pros just use standard cvd's. I'm guessing the more friction/binding when turning has its advantages also with slowing the car down around turns.

Any problems with binding in the stock cvds is caused by too much steering throw.

What roll centers to use for 17.5 nonboosted? Seem most factory guys r useing ob's and 3a

I find that if the traction is quite high/average B0's is a good position for all the blocks.

A3 is 1mm lower than B0 and I think if you lower them all to this it would help gain traction when the grip is lower.

Another option is to use all B0's except for the Front front blocks to angle the front wishbone. And then putting on 6degree caster blocks to give back 2degrees caster, lost by angling the hingepin.
Doing this prevents weight transfer going forwards as fast so can make the car easier to drive when coming off power, or understeer..

If only associated would listen to the american drivers and produce lots of parts only available on other cars like a gear diff perhaps.

I have run most every brand of car between nitro and electric and I don't think I have ever competed in a national level race with a 100% factory car even if I ran for that team. There was always a better brake pad, or lighter drivetrain part available that just wasn't worth making for a few people for a big company but worthwhile to someone else, like spec-r in this case.

Now factory aftermarket slash/whatever trucks, that is where the money is for them.

btw, got a refund on litemodz cvs so I will not be able to report on those for you guys since I couldn't get them in a month although two of my friends have them and they do stop chattering with your wheels at full (against the caster block) lock