Front pink tapereds/ Rear Suburbs MC

That's the best tire combo you can use , if the car is pushing it has to be a simple adjustment, like the ride height ,correct tire insert or
radio EPA ...

Get a new rear tower, same part number but the 3rd hole is now the 4th hole that we used to have to drill ourselves, was a running change #9572. Get either a b4.1 chassis or a B4 RTR plastic chassis.

You may know this already but I had major steering issues when I went to 2wd buggy. Driving style is HUGE. a 2wd buggy will not turn under power! To get a buggy to turn it must be coasting or braking. This is one thing that makes mod 2wd buggy so hard to drive fast, IMO.

Thanks bud. The 4th hole is actually already drilled and mounted so ill just replace that if it breaks or anything. As far as the chassis goes ill have to check it out when it gets here. This is an old factory drivers car so I know its pretty dialed already and has most of the stuff needed already.

Hmmmm is that the same for the T4 rear shock tower? And if so, when did they make this change and how can you tell if you have the new one?

Nope not the same for the T4.

On the b4 you can tell bc its only in the new soft black plastic.

which sucks because I know T4.1 and SC10 guys are both drilling for the 4th hole, not as much on the SC10 but..

The other plus with the new b4.1 tower is that it fits the battery strap much better with lipos!! Fitting a Reedy lipo in a FT B4 sucked, unless you dremeled the tower.

has anyone noticed the gap between the shock piston and the shock body? I recently changed my shock oil and when i was slowly moving the piston up and down, i noticed an air bubble come from around this gap. I'm assuming the piston is too small or the shock body is too big. either way the gap is easily visible. does anyone have an idea about this problem? any suggestions to remedy this or is this just what people are talking about when they say AE has been loosing it's quality?

After seeing this, i check my sc-r shocks and the piston seals very tightly to the shock body.

A gritty diff is often the thrist bearing. Get those small washers sanded flat and use good carbide or ceramic balls and it's ll be fine again.

Dang :/ I guess I'll keep on drilling that hole then...

Ah, okay. I thought everyone was talking about sanding the diff rings. So just the two small washers that the 6 thrust balls go in between? Am I supposed to sand them to make them thinner or are they just not even and flat?

I was thinking to make them a little more "rough" so they grab better?

alot of times it is to actually make it smoother, from manufacturing rings can often have little imperfections like small dimples etc.. Sanding them down can make the entire ring a level and flat surface meaning the balls roll more freely.

Hahaaaa! Thanks bud. My buddy has it backwards then. He sanded his down with a heavy grit because he was told they need to grab better haha. Thanks for the heads up and ill be letting him know.

Gearing for the b4.1 w/ at Novak 13.5 and no boost. Running mostly on indoor clay. Thanks!