RC10B4.1 FT/WC
#2044
I ran a Speedpassion 17.5 a couple years ago... before boost. I ran a 66t spur using a no slipper setup, with 30t+ pinions. I think I ended up 66/32. This was on a good size smooth indoor track.
#2045
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Hmmmm no slipper... I think it would be tough to run in mod but I like the idea.. I over-tighten my slipper anyways and try to improve the smoothness of my throttle finger. What do you do to set it up that way? I like the look of the PRS spurs so what would I do to mount one of those bad boys up?
#2050
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
Batteries?
So I have my FT B4.1 waiting for me back home in CA for when I go visit tomorrow and was wondering what Lipo's would be best for it? I am looking to get into racing it but also driving it around outside as well.
I have read reviews on tons of batteries and have heard that its better to run a smaller than 5000mAh pack to race because of the weight. I would be looking to get the biggest battery it can fit to practice with as well.
I will be running my RS Pro with 10.5 Motor but will also be getting a stock 17.5 Motor to run in stock class eventually as well.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Also any recommendations for street tires for it?
I have read reviews on tons of batteries and have heard that its better to run a smaller than 5000mAh pack to race because of the weight. I would be looking to get the biggest battery it can fit to practice with as well.
I will be running my RS Pro with 10.5 Motor but will also be getting a stock 17.5 Motor to run in stock class eventually as well.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Also any recommendations for street tires for it?
Last edited by TheBeavertonKid; 03-16-2011 at 01:21 PM.
#2051
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
No idea on the street tires and you definitely don't have to worry about the weight on these batteries You will actually find with how light Lipos are and how small and lightweight electronics are getting that you need to add a little! If you are going to be racing at all then you definitely want some that are around 5000mah to maybe 5400mah. Anything above that is just gravy. For your 10.5 motor you would be fine with 35-50c and for your 17.5 motor you will definitely want 40c-65c for the extra punch you'll be able to get. If you want batteries that will be fine for both of your motors just get some 5000mah 50c batteries. there are plenty of batteries around that rating out there. Here are some of the 5000mah 50c's that I use:
http://www.fantomracing.com/proddeta...?prod=FAN26201
the picture shows the 40c battery but they are in the middle of updating the site. Its the 50c when you buy it
http://www.fantomracing.com/proddeta...?prod=FAN26201
the picture shows the 40c battery but they are in the middle of updating the site. Its the 50c when you buy it
#2052
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
No idea on the street tires and you definitely don't have to worry about the weight on these batteries You will actually find with how light Lipos are and how small and lightweight electronics are getting that you need to add a little! If you are going to be racing at all then you definitely want some that are around 5000mah to maybe 5400mah. Anything above that is just gravy. For your 10.5 motor you would be fine with 35-50c and for your 17.5 motor you will definitely want 40c-65c for the extra punch you'll be able to get. If you want batteries that will be fine for both of your motors just get some 5000mah 50c batteries. there are plenty of batteries around that rating out there. Here are some of the 5000mah 50c's that I use:
http://www.fantomracing.com/proddeta...?prod=FAN26201
the picture shows the 40c battery but they are in the middle of updating the site. Its the 50c when you buy it
http://www.fantomracing.com/proddeta...?prod=FAN26201
the picture shows the 40c battery but they are in the middle of updating the site. Its the 50c when you buy it
#2054
If i understand it right sanding down the shock tower would actually raise the roll center. The new graphite pieces actually lower the roll center by lowering the mount at the hub.